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I have a 1975 GL1000. I tore the engine down last year for repairs afterI suddenly lost oil pressure. Well, I finally got it back together after tracking down all the parts...replaced the stator, water pump, thermostat, clutch plates, discs, springs, and cable, etc. I put the engine back on the bike and got everything hooked back up except the fairing. NOW, the blasted thing won't turn over at all. There's no click at the solenoid, no nothing. I have my warning lights on, but that's it. Now there is a part on the bottom of the engine block that had a single wire going to it....that component is not hooked up. The screw came out and I discovered it was stripped. So, I never hooked that back up. Does anyone know what that piece is, and whether it will stop this bike from turning over?I have a spare engine I can get parts off of if necessary.....please advise ASAP! I want to ride again so bad!
 

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It's the neutral switch and it will keep the starter circuit from working. If the clutch switch works it should crank if you pull in the clutch.
 

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Well, when I pull the clutch lever in, still nothing. NO clicks, nothing. So, I am at a loss....I am going to look at pulling that switch out of the other bike engine and replacing mine...question is, do I HAVE to pull the engine again to replace it? Or can I just lower it a little bit?
 

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I don't know on a 1000 if you can change the switch without pulling the engine. Forgot to ask if the neutral light works. If it does then it's not the switch but if not you can just ground the wire and it should work.
 

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Does ANYONE know if this switch can be changed with the engine still in the bike? Also, does anyone happen to know what the OEM part number is? I have been looking through the parts fiche on hdlparts.com and can't find that switch listed anywhere.....
 

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Here's the part # SWITCH, NEUTRAL
35752-300-020
Just ground the wire to the engine and see if it will crank to be sure that's what the problem is.
 

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Ok...thanks....that's what I had in mind to do next. I saw another post on here about how to remove that switch without removing the engine. So, looks like I know what I will be doing on Monday!
 

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You can jump the relay to see if the starter can turn the engine..and start the bike. BIG screw driver across the posts will do it or big cable. Key on, jump the posts, or key on, kill switch on just to see is the starter will turn the engine w/o starting.

Have you hand turned it? to be sure timing is correct..do that first if you haven't.
 

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Didn't fool with the timing in any way shape or form. I am going to try the suggestions mentioned above....wasn't sure if any of those ideas were safe (already thought of all of them)....so now that I know that those are safe to try, that's my next project.
 

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Well....I grounded the wire going to the neutral safety switch. That turned on the light. I made sure the bike was in neutral. I had the battery tested....it tested good. I then took the solenoid loose and checked the wiring on it. The yellow wire gets hot with a test light (just to see if its getting power) whenI push the start button with the clutch lever pulled in. The green wire did briefly, (got a flash or two then nothing). So, that's where I am now. I am going to consult the wiring diagram furher tomorrow to try to determine what the green wire does. I did use a screwdriver across the solenoid posts, and the engine does turn over. So, tomorrow I am going to try to trace the green wire from the solenoid and see where it goes.....see if I can determine if its supposed to be hot when the start switch is pushed. Anyone with any ideas, please PLEASE feel free to post! Oh, and if that wasn't bad enough...I've got to pull the coolant tubes BACK off AGAIN and find replacement o-rings! Mine are now leaking!
 

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Take a look at your kill switch too. A lot of people have come in here looking for starter help only to turn around and go oops!! my kill switch was on!!

Solid green wires are always a ground wire on Hondas.

That should be a green/orange wire coming from the solenoid and going to the clutch switch at the clutch lever. Spray inside that switch with contact cleaner and check for current through it with the clutch lever pulled in.
 

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The wires on the solenoid should be red/yellow and red/green. The red/yellow should have power from the start button which it appears to. The red/green grounds the solenoid through either the diode pack if the neutral light is on or the clutch switch if in gear. Connect the clip on the test light to battery positive and probe the red/green, With the neutral light on or when you pull in the clutch the test light should light, if not the diodes may be bad and/or the clutch switch or a connection is bad.
 

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That's pretty much what I determined when I looked at the wiring diagram in the repair manual in the starter section. It showed that the green wire with a red tracer is the ground for the coil in the solenoid. I checked, and the coil is being supplied a ground with the neutral safety switch wire being grounded. So, by all rights and reasons the bike should turn over when I hit the start switch, because there's power to it. So, the next time i'm off work I am going to change the solenoid. I have another one off this parts bike. So, hopefully, by this weekend...I will have this bike running!
 

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Ok...here's an UPDATE! I GOT IT RUNNING>>>>BUT...it only runs as long as I hold the start switch in! I ran across another post somewhere with this same problem, but I don't remember what the cause was. Does anyone know what could be going on here? I had trouble starting her due to old gas....added some fresh gas to the tank, whirled her over a bit, in short bursts....and then she would fire off but she will only run as long as I hold the start button in! ANY IDEAS?
 
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