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62 Posts
I put a Dyna pickup set on my 1000 without changing the coils and it was a great idea--it cold-starts right up now, where before it was just a pain to get it to light off.
I had to mess with mine to get the timing right. It was fiddly to get the backing plate evenly adjusted when checking the gaps. I had to mess with the mounting positions of each pickup to get them balanced out. I used a static light to time it because these **** things throw so much oil out the inspection port that it wasn't worth it. It was around and around with the wrench on the engine for a long time, but like I said, it was worth it.
The whole point of using electronic pickups is to get around the current-handling limitations of points--the pulsers can take a lot more current, leading to more through the coils, and on to the plugs.
A GL1000 has a ballast resistor system like a car. The resistor is in there so that the running voltage to the coils is about 9 volts. This is to keep the points from burning too quickly--they won't last long at full 12 volts. When the engine is cranking, the resistor is bypassed in the handlebar switch so that even when the starter is dragging the battery down to about 9 volts, the coils get what they need to work properly. On a system like mine, where I only changed the pickups, you change out the ballast resistor for the lower-resistance Dyna part. This is the secret to the easier starting--lower resistance means more current through the coils, which means more fire at cold temps and low RPM, which means some of what little fuel/air molecules exist will be within reach of the [bigger] spark. But you can only do that with magnetic pickups because they don't arc and burn.
About your killswitch problem, the feed current for the coils runs from the resistor up through the killswitch and back to the coils. You've jumpered the coils inproperly--it's not hard to do in a GL1000. In to the resistor is a black wire, out to the killswitch is a black/brown wire, and out from there to the coils is a black/white wire. There's a black wire to the handlebar switch that powers the coils when the starter button is pressed--it normally feeds the headlight, but that's interrupted when the button is pushed.
I had to mess with mine to get the timing right. It was fiddly to get the backing plate evenly adjusted when checking the gaps. I had to mess with the mounting positions of each pickup to get them balanced out. I used a static light to time it because these **** things throw so much oil out the inspection port that it wasn't worth it. It was around and around with the wrench on the engine for a long time, but like I said, it was worth it.
The whole point of using electronic pickups is to get around the current-handling limitations of points--the pulsers can take a lot more current, leading to more through the coils, and on to the plugs.
A GL1000 has a ballast resistor system like a car. The resistor is in there so that the running voltage to the coils is about 9 volts. This is to keep the points from burning too quickly--they won't last long at full 12 volts. When the engine is cranking, the resistor is bypassed in the handlebar switch so that even when the starter is dragging the battery down to about 9 volts, the coils get what they need to work properly. On a system like mine, where I only changed the pickups, you change out the ballast resistor for the lower-resistance Dyna part. This is the secret to the easier starting--lower resistance means more current through the coils, which means more fire at cold temps and low RPM, which means some of what little fuel/air molecules exist will be within reach of the [bigger] spark. But you can only do that with magnetic pickups because they don't arc and burn.
About your killswitch problem, the feed current for the coils runs from the resistor up through the killswitch and back to the coils. You've jumpered the coils inproperly--it's not hard to do in a GL1000. In to the resistor is a black wire, out to the killswitch is a black/brown wire, and out from there to the coils is a black/white wire. There's a black wire to the handlebar switch that powers the coils when the starter button is pressed--it normally feeds the headlight, but that's interrupted when the button is pushed.
