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I am at a stop. I have installed Don Poorboy Alt. convert kit on the bike andthe problem starts when the bike is at idle, it is only putting out 11.0 [email protected] and then everything stops working. likeno turn signals,no horn, and no instrument lights, dim tail lights. I get the RPM to 3,000 and the meter is reading 14.0 volts and everything works. The Battery is new. I have re-checked all wires as to theinstruction plans. What am I missing?
 

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seems like a battery problem there... even the stock system wont charge at idle. it starts charging above 2500 rpm. some people have changed the pulley ratios but well lets wait for the experts on the subject step in
 

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The battery should be providing most of your juice at tickover. Charging kicks in as the revs rise, which yours seems to do. At rest, the battery should show about 12.5 volts at the meter and as you switch things on it will drop- but these items should still work at 11 volts. Do the ancilliaries work without the engine running? It definately sounds like battery trouble, but then why would you see 11 volts and why do items fail to work at this voltage?....Steve
 

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sounds like a ground problem of sorts,you should be seeing 14+ volts at about 1500-1700 rpms with the 2.5" pulley,

what did u use for an alternator,new or used,and did you have it checked out if it was used
 

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the alternator is new, 55 amps .The battery is also new, but the battery is only holding at 10 volts when the bike is not running. I will return the battery today.
 

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blkhawk611 wrote:
the alternator is new, 55 amps .The battery is also new, but the battery is only holding at 10 volts when the bike is not running. I will return the battery today.
You say the battery is new. Have you given it a full charge since you bought it?New doesn'tmean fully charged.
 

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Put a smaller pulley on the alternator....
 

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I did not fully charge the battery, it when straight out of the box to the bike. It would start the bike just fine and then I installed the convert kit it all started then. I will also take the alternator to auto-zone to be bench tested today. The story continues!!
 

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I would also re-check the wiring of the alternator and make sure it's correct. I also agree to using a slightly smaller pulley on the alternator or a larger pulley on the end of the crank to increase the low rpm's of the alternator. Recheck all ground points especially the main ground cable on the battery where it attaches to the frame.

Another thought, did you leave the original VR unit hooked up? It shouldn't be.
 

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blkhawk611 wrote:
I did not fully charge the battery, it when straight out of the box to the bike. It would start the bike just fine and then I installed the convert kit it all started then. I will also take the alternator to auto-zone to be bench tested today. The story continues!!
That's your problem right there. You need to charge that battery, preferebly over night. I wouldn't even bother with testing the alternator........charge the battery and try it again in the morning.



Also, if the bike is idling for a bit, like perhaps testing your new setup......the thermal switch will kick the aux fan on........which has a pretty good draw as well. An incorrectly charged battery in and of itself will definitely display the symptoms you saw........and if your aux fan is kicking on as well..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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I disconnected the originalVOLT REGULATORand cleaned the wires connection to the battery. all my lights are dim, the turn signals and the horn will not work at idle. At 1500 to 3000 RPM everything works great. The alternator is wire like instructed in poorboy direction. I will try charging the battery over night and try in the morning. If the battery is bad I will return. Thank you all and I will keep you up to date. OUTSIDE I GO AGAIN.

















TO ALL THE VETERANS OUT THERE, THANK YOU FOR YOU SERVICE AND SUPPORT. I HAVE TWO TOURS UNDER MY BELT IN IRAQ.:bowing:
 

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I just did this install on a friend's 1200 and it works fine at idle. Let us know how it works after you install a fully charged battery. If it is still doing it, have the alternator checked at a shop.

Bernie
 

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you should get approx. 2 volts per cell from your battery, I agree on charging that battery for 24 hours on a 2 amp charge, also you could for testing purposes hook up your battery charger to battery and set it on 10 amps when the engine is at idle, lights and horn should be ok and then youll know its the battery and not the installation

hope this helps

tony
 

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Yes, charge the battery. 11.9 is a dead battery = 0% state of charge. Fully charged secondary wet cell batteries have 6 cells, each should be 2.1v = 12.6v for fully charged battery. Voltage will go higher if the battery is warmer. That is the nature of electrolyte, lower if colder. Your battery out of the box has a charge, but the cells are not stable. Always charge for at least 3 to 6 hrs, or more with trickle charger. You can cause damage to starters and alternators if the battery is not at 75% state of charge...12.45 or better. Lower amperage will fry the inside of starters and alternators. Charge it and then do voltage drop testing for both + and - leads for both parts. The negative side is just as important as the positive side. I can send more info if needed for about voltage drop testing. I question if AZ can test starter or Alternator. Amps are just as important as volts. You will need the specs for both. It can be done on the bike but need two digital volt ohm meters. Remove negative wire first to remove battery and install last when putting back in. This reduces the chance of damage to alternator regulators and other electrical parts..
 

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Almost forgot the golden rule of electrical problems,
metal to metal,good and clean and tight.. Did you leave it dirty or did you paint it.. Alum and steel conduct elec but be sure to shine the metal connection spots. Last thing is the voltage drop testing will find spots of high resistance..frayed wires, loose connections, corrosion, cable gauge too small.. Good luck Bet it is the battery charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
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YOU GUYS ARE GREAT. I BOUGHT A CHARGER WITH INDICATOR LIGHT FOR CHARGING CHARGED AND REPLACE BATTERY. LOW AND BEHOLD AFTER TWO HOURS OF CHARGING THE REPLACE BATTERY LIGHT LIT UP. SO I WILL REPLACE THE BATTERY AND THEY CHARGE IT FOR A DAY AND THEN I WILL RE-INSTALL IT ON THE BIKE. I WILL INSTALL L.E.D. LIGHTS TOMORROW (HOME MADE LIGHTS).
 

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I found when fitting my home made conversion that the warning light and excitation wire is best connected to the fuse box auxilary connection so the alternator sees less overall volts so gives a higher charge at low RPM.
If you have a single wire connection to the battery, if the battery is at fault the alternator will not charge. This is one reason i went for a 2 or 3 wire alternator.

Another thing is to connect the fited voltmeter from the ignition or main fuse to get a more accurate reading.

I get 14.5v at 1100rpm and upwards with a load of around 160watts (13amps)or more
13v at 1000rpm
12.5v at 950rpm then battery volts at any lower revs
 

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I bought a new everstart battery from walmart for my GL1100 2 months ago for only $50 - I put it on a 2 ampauto charger for 8 hours, installed it and this bike starts everytime now.. charge the battery before installing, keep in mind to slow charge it at 2 amp.. anything more may damage your battery... good luck.
 

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I took power for the alternatorfield though a relay. The relay is powered from the horn/fan wire coming from the fuse box, i do not want to power the field with the switch on ACC. I get about 13.2 volts at idle and 14 +/- above 2200 RPM.
 

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I took power for the alternatorfield though a relay. The relay is powered from the horn/fan wire coming from the fuse box, i do not want to power the field with the switch on ACC. I get about 13.2 volts at idle and 14 +/- above 2200 RPM.
 
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