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I have some bad cupping on the left side of back tire only. Set of e3's about 5000 miles on them have always watched tire pres. closely and weight dist. if anytihng right side is a little heavier. The tires that I replaced wore very well no cupping at all.

It's to the point to where the bike won't stay in a lean steady and will go in to tight you come up to lose when turning to the left. stays in the corner just perfect to the right. I'am starting to think that I just have a bad tire. Put about 47 psi on the way home from last ride just to get it to corner steady. Any opinions?



thanks

Randy
 

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Still Learning
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Are you doing mostly left turns, IE; NASCAR tracks??????
What is the date code on that tire? Was it a new or used tire when you put it on? Is that mud in them cracks? Mud left on the tire will throw off the balance of the tires and cause wear problems. Lots of dirt road riding?

My rear I put on a year ago with a couple month old date of manufacture, new, it started cupping @ 1500 miles after putting it on. I had it(both), mounted and balanced at a shop here. @ 1500 miles I had Ride-on balancer/sealer put in and the weights taken off. Big improvement in the ride. Much smoother and no more low speed shakes w/hands off the bars in deceleration. I was hoping the Ride-on would get rid of the cupping, it has slowed it some.

The E3s that were on the bike when I got it a year ago had 10,000 on them and were cupped badly on both sides. I replaced them @ 14,000 with the current ones, now have 10,000 on them and replacing them this week in prep for a month and half on the road around the country trip. There is still @ 3-4,000 left in them but don't want to have to change on the road for worn out tires.

Going double dark side this time.
 

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The dirt was mud came home in the rain yard just muddy. Just trying to put a reason to it only cupping on one side? May end up on darkside myself if can't find the cause of this.:?
 

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It might be a bad tire. Have you check the balance?
 

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I think I may have an answer for ya. My E-3 on the front did the same thing. I have a trike, but the cupping is the same. I found for me, the tire was fine, it was the forks. If one side or the other works differently than the other,you get vibes and cupping. I changed the nasty fork oil, cleaned the fork parts and rebuilt them, put on a SuperBrace I won in a contest, and the cupping stopped. I am presently wearing out what's left of the last E-3, so I can put a Metzler 808 on the front. The scalloping is actually wearing straight again. Alot of small stuff can cause this cupping, like steering head adjustments, forks, anti dive mechanism, wheel bearings, and tire balancing. I am tempted to use some Counter Act balancing beads for balancing the new tire. Dyna Beads are the same thing, but alot more pricey. Good luck hunting down the cupping gremlin. It seems to affect alot of wings. jimsjinx
 

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jimsjinx wrote:
I think I may have an answer for ya. My E-3 on the front did the same thing. I have a trike, but the cupping is the same. I found for me, the tire was fine, it was the forks. If one side or the other works differently than the other,you get vibes and cupping. I changed the nasty fork oil, cleaned the fork parts and rebuilt them, put on a SuperBrace I won in a contest, and the cupping stopped. I am presently wearing out what's left of the last E-3, so I can put a Metzler 808 on the front. The scalloping is actually wearing straight again. Alot of small stuff can cause this cupping, like steering head adjustments, forks, anti dive mechanism, wheel bearings, and tire balancing. I am tempted to use some Counter Act balancing beads for balancing the new tire. Dyna Beads are the same thing, but alot more pricey. Good luck hunting down the cupping gremlin. It seems to affect alot of wings. jimsjinx
Thank you for that I might change tire out and put dyna beads in it and see what happens with it. See about reaplaceing bearings and replace shock oil.



Thank you
 

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When you pull the wheel there's a small checklist that may save a little heartache:
1) re-check (lube or replace) your swingarm bearings
2) Inspect the right front inside ("tire face", if you will) of the swingarm for rust or degradation
3) Before reinstalling the wheel, ensure that you loosen the final drive mounting, and re-torque only after the axle has been properly retorqued
 

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Yeah, and lube the splines on the output shaft/U-Joint while you're in there! Moly 60 is what is recomended. You don't want the splines or ouput shaft wearing prematurely! Just adding to the pile of stuff!LOL jimsjinx
 

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satan wrote:
When you pull the wheel there's a small checklist that may save a little heartache:
1) re-check (lube or replace) your swingarm bearings
2) Inspect the right front inside ("tire face", if you will) of the swingarm for rust or degradation
3) Before reinstalling the wheel, ensure that you loosen the final drive mounting, and re-torque only after the axle has been properly retorqued
Thank you for that didn't know about no. 3 on the list. Start over with the list and do all of it again and see if it corrects the problem. Look in the book and see if there is anything else to do while I'am in there



Thanks all
 
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