Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
85 Goldwing LTD
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have read several posts on how to test the stator and some of them had conflicting info, plus, they all say something like jump wire a to b and a to c then b to c etc. This seems odd to me because they are saying to randomly assign a letter (or number) to each wie exiting the stator, which means that there should be around 50 volts etc between any 2 wires on the stator.

Should there be 50 volts between every 2 wire combination on the stator?

From one stator thread.

"The 3 yellow are the ouput of the stator and should read 50 volts AC or more at 2000rpm. You measure AC between all 3 of the yellow wires. In other words think of them as 1 2 and 3. you should measure 50 or more volts AC between 1 and 2.. between 1 and 3 and finally between 3 and 2."


Is below the correct way to test the stator?

With the voltage regulator disconnected, the output of the stator should read around 50 volts AC at 2000 rpm when connecting any 2 of the stator wires together. All 2 wire combinations noted below should be tested.

1. Disconnect voltage regulator.
2. Randomly assign each wire a separate number such as 1, and 2, and 3.
3. Start bike and set idle to 2000 rpm or have someone hold the throttle at 2000 rpm.
4. Put volt meter on AC setting
5. Test voltage between wires 1 & 2.
6. Test voltage between wires 1 & 3.
7. Test voltage between wires 2 & 3.

WARNING: Do not let any of the stator wires touch anything when the engine is running.

Thanks for any clarification.
 

·
Premium Member
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
Joined
·
3,574 Posts
Here's the test I normally post when this is asked:

Stator Test
1- First, put the bike on the centerstand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.
NOTE: When using an analog type meter to check for shorts or open circuit's have the meter set to R x 1 scale. A "short" circuit condition, (a continuous electrical path to ground), is indicated by the meter needle sweeping across the meter gauge face to 0 ohms resistance. An "open" circuit condition, (no electrical path to ground) is indicated by no movement of the meter needle, infinite resistance. Using a digital meter the reading should be: for a short - 0 ohms, and for an open condition - infinite resistance which normally there will be no change in the meter reading..

2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for short's. If no short's are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.

3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohm's. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.

4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wire's separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warm's up.

IMPORTANT!!!
You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!
With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.
Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.
Finally check leg C to A. Note the voltage.
Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70vac plus or minus about 5vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator.
 

·
Premium Member
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
Joined
·
3,574 Posts
Quote:
They all say something like jump wire a to b and a to c then b to c etc. This seems odd to me because they are saying to randomly assign a letter (or number) to each wire exiting the stator, which means that there should be around 50 volts etc between any 2 wires on the stator.

Should there be 50 volts between every 2 wire combination on the stator?"

Well first, don't do a direct jump between ANY wires, especially the three yellow wires coming from the stator!! That would be very Bad!!! Using a VOM meter as described in the test I posted is Ok but NO direct jumping between wires!!!!!!

It might seem odd to randomly assign a letter or number to each of the three yellow wires but it's not and the reason is you're dealing with 3 phase AC voltage and they are ID'd, A, B, and C for testing purposes as described in the above test...

Any more questions just ask and Welcome to the Site!!!
 

·
Registered
85 Goldwing LTD
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply and your post is one of the ones i previously saw, so the wire numbering or lettering is random and there should be 50 volts when any 2 wire combination from the stator is tested.

Also, why do you cut the plug instead of simply unplugging it?

Someone has already removed the plug on my stator and soldered them to the harness wires so I suspect they may have had a problem.

I am having odd voltage readings. When I am cruising it is around 13.2 then if i apply the brakes, it slowly drops to 11.00. At idle it is occasionally the same as battery voltage or slightly less, and is occasionally slightly higher than battery voltage, so the charging is inconsistent.
.
 

·
Premium Member
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
Joined
·
3,574 Posts
One of the reasons for removing the connectors in the charging circuit is age and heat cause the connectors to loose "grip", arc and burn!! Notice I said connectorS!!! Plural!! That's because the connector plug at the regulator and the plug on top of the starter solenoid can and will burn also!! On my Ltd Ed I removed all those connectors and bypassed the 30 amp dogbone fuse on the starter solenoid, replacing it with a 30 amp in-line fuseholder...

If your getting 13-14vdc at idle and at speed I'd bet one of two things is happening: A bad connection is getting hot and decreasing the charging voltage, Or, There is a diode going bad in the regulator and stops working when it gets hot....

Caution: Aftermarket regulators such as Electrix do NOT last any amount of time and are a waste of money!!! There are some Mosfet regulators that are an option I've heard but me personally, I stick with the OEM Shindengen regulator!! You should be able to find one at Regulatorrectifier.com... They have a chat window during business hours and are Very helpfull!! Also they are about half the price Mother Honda wants for one.... Also use the model number on your regulator if you have to order one as there are two different regulators for the GL 1200!! One is for the Carb'd models which put out 360 watts and the other is for the Fuel Injected models which put out 500 watts!!

Hope this helps!!!

BTW, What Model/Year do you have??
 

·
Registered
85 Goldwing LTD
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
One of the reasons for removing the connectors in the charging circuit is age and heat cause the connectors to loose "grip", arc and burn!! Notice I said connectorS!!! Plural!! That's because the connector plug at the regulator and the plug on top of the starter solenoid can and will burn also!! On my Ltd Ed I removed all those connectors and bypassed the 30 amp dogbone fuse on the starter solenoid, replacing it with a 30 amp in-line fuseholder...

If your getting 13-14vdc at idle and at speed I'd bet one of two things is happening: A bad connection is getting hot and decreasing the charging voltage, Or, There is a diode going bad in the regulator and stops working when it gets hot....

Caution: Aftermarket regulators such as Electrix do NOT last any amount of time and are a waste of money!!! There are some Mosfet regulators that are an option I've heard but me personally, I stick with the OEM Shindengen regulator!! You should be able to find one at Regulatorrectifier.com... They have a chat window during business hours and are Very helpfull!! Also they are about half the price Mother Honda wants for one.... Also use the model number on your regulator if you have to order one as there are two different regulators for the GL 1200!! One is for the Carb'd models which put out 360 watts and the other is for the Fuel Injected models which put out 500 watts!!

Hope this helps!!!

BTW, What Model/Year do you have??
Thanks for the reply.

I have a 1985 Goldwing Limited Edition.

I would be ecstatic if I was getting 13 or more at idle but unfortunately I am not. It is somtimes aroound 11.

I will test the stator in a day or so and if it is good, I will replace the regulator.

It also has a recent battery but it is a budget brand so I am replacing it with a better one.
 

·
Premium Member
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
Joined
·
3,574 Posts
Cool!! If the Stator tests good you'll need to remove the seat and tank fairing to access the area where the regulator is so you can check the connectors there: there's two!! Check there and at the Starter Solenoid for burning before you buy a new regulator!!!!! I've got the same bike so this is a road I've been down before!! Let us know what you find!!

BTW at Idle the voltmeter on the right of the radio should read about 14.0-14.3vdc.... You've got the 500 watt Stator... 😎
 

·
Registered
85 Goldwing LTD
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool!! If the Stator tests good you'll need to remove the seat and tank fairing to access the area where the regulator is so you can check the connectors there: there's two!! Check there and at the Starter Solenoid for burning before you buy a new regulator!!!!! I've got the same bike so this is a road I've been down before!! Let us know what you find!!

BTW at Idle the voltmeter on the right of the radio should read about 14.0-14.3vdc.... You've got the 500 watt Stator... 😎
Thanks again for the info.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
28,937 Posts
Maybe your idle speed is too low.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top