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85 Goldwing LTD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have read several posts on how to test the stator and some of them had conflicting info, plus, they all say something like jump wire a to b and a to c then b to c etc. This seems odd to me because they are saying to randomly assign a letter (or number) to each wie exiting the stator, which means that there should be around 50 volts etc between any 2 wires on the stator.

Should there be 50 volts between every 2 wire combination on the stator?

From one stator thread.

"The 3 yellow are the ouput of the stator and should read 50 volts AC or more at 2000rpm. You measure AC between all 3 of the yellow wires. In other words think of them as 1 2 and 3. you should measure 50 or more volts AC between 1 and 2.. between 1 and 3 and finally between 3 and 2."


Is below the correct way to test the stator?

With the voltage regulator disconnected, the output of the stator should read around 50 volts AC at 2000 rpm when connecting any 2 of the stator wires together. All 2 wire combinations noted below should be tested.

1. Disconnect voltage regulator.
2. Randomly assign each wire a separate number such as 1, and 2, and 3.
3. Start bike and set idle to 2000 rpm or have someone hold the throttle at 2000 rpm.
4. Put volt meter on AC setting
5. Test voltage between wires 1 & 2.
6. Test voltage between wires 1 & 3.
7. Test voltage between wires 2 & 3.

WARNING: Do not let any of the stator wires touch anything when the engine is running.

Thanks for any clarification.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply and your post is one of the ones i previously saw, so the wire numbering or lettering is random and there should be 50 volts when any 2 wire combination from the stator is tested.

Also, why do you cut the plug instead of simply unplugging it?

Someone has already removed the plug on my stator and soldered them to the harness wires so I suspect they may have had a problem.

I am having odd voltage readings. When I am cruising it is around 13.2 then if i apply the brakes, it slowly drops to 11.00. At idle it is occasionally the same as battery voltage or slightly less, and is occasionally slightly higher than battery voltage, so the charging is inconsistent.
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
One of the reasons for removing the connectors in the charging circuit is age and heat cause the connectors to loose "grip", arc and burn!! Notice I said connectorS!!! Plural!! That's because the connector plug at the regulator and the plug on top of the starter solenoid can and will burn also!! On my Ltd Ed I removed all those connectors and bypassed the 30 amp dogbone fuse on the starter solenoid, replacing it with a 30 amp in-line fuseholder...

If your getting 13-14vdc at idle and at speed I'd bet one of two things is happening: A bad connection is getting hot and decreasing the charging voltage, Or, There is a diode going bad in the regulator and stops working when it gets hot....

Caution: Aftermarket regulators such as Electrix do NOT last any amount of time and are a waste of money!!! There are some Mosfet regulators that are an option I've heard but me personally, I stick with the OEM Shindengen regulator!! You should be able to find one at Regulatorrectifier.com... They have a chat window during business hours and are Very helpfull!! Also they are about half the price Mother Honda wants for one.... Also use the model number on your regulator if you have to order one as there are two different regulators for the GL 1200!! One is for the Carb'd models which put out 360 watts and the other is for the Fuel Injected models which put out 500 watts!!

Hope this helps!!!

BTW, What Model/Year do you have??
Thanks for the reply.

I have a 1985 Goldwing Limited Edition.

I would be ecstatic if I was getting 13 or more at idle but unfortunately I am not. It is somtimes aroound 11.

I will test the stator in a day or so and if it is good, I will replace the regulator.

It also has a recent battery but it is a budget brand so I am replacing it with a better one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool!! If the Stator tests good you'll need to remove the seat and tank fairing to access the area where the regulator is so you can check the connectors there: there's two!! Check there and at the Starter Solenoid for burning before you buy a new regulator!!!!! I've got the same bike so this is a road I've been down before!! Let us know what you find!!

BTW at Idle the voltmeter on the right of the radio should read about 14.0-14.3vdc.... You've got the 500 watt Stator... 😎
Thanks again for the info.
 
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