Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

21 - 40 of 195 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14 Posts
imported post

Thanks Dave. brought my '80 1100 back to life for under $45, with new wires ! Ric
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
238 Posts
imported post

Does anyone know how swapping the Neon coil onto a '76 would be? I have an occasional miss and am thinking it is caused by the wire. I have shortened the wire several times and I still get the miss.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,169 Posts
imported post

There are a lot of coil packs like this out there. Ford Escort etc. A lot of the 4 cylinder cars used wasted spark after they got rid of the distributors. Then they went to coil on spark plug, a coil for each spark plug.
I have a 98 Escort coil pack that works great.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
238 Posts
imported post

wilf wrote:
Have you replaced the boots terry
Wilf
No, I haven't. Are they the rubber plugs that fit over the wire terminals and fit around the sparkplugs? I have some other used ones I'll try replacing them in the AM.

I pulled the horseshoe exhaustlast year and replaced it with a pair of mufflers. This has allowed me to determine that myproblemseems to be only on the 1/3 side.

Thanks. Terry
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1 Posts
imported post

I have a 79 'wing that still has original points ignition and have been following this thread since the start hoping it would solve some problems for me too as I think my coils are failing as well.
I've corresponded with "Hondaman" regarding his ignition upgrade - see here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?PHPSESSID=47652653ebec7730f2a7bf63ac2638a6&topic=67543.msg744943#msg744943
The Hondaman module looked/s like a great addition to the ignition system. I thought that his module would solve the mismatch between the 3 ohm primary resistance required by the pre-1980 'wings and the 0.5 ohms required for the Neon ignitors using some capacitor trickery. It does not use capacitors, but transistors. It does look like a really neat way to unload the power going to the points and has much value in this regard, but it does not solve the mismatch for coils.
Indeed, it seems that we are barking up the wrong tree here for the Neon type of coils for the early 'wings. The coils are used in a capacitive discharge ignition (CDI) system which I believe the 1980 'wings and onward have. In my limited understanding of this, and based on a very helpful email from Hondaman, the coils for the Neon type need a big wallop of juice to get the sparkers for the plugs going. If we try to do this with the standard points that we have (Kettering type) on pre '80 points we will develop a bunch of heat in the wires, burn out the start switch (eventually) and not generate much spark.
So, it seems to me that we're back to Dyna or Accels for the early wings.
Full disclosure here says that I really am not an electrics guy (obviously), but this is my broad understanding of this effort for the older 'wings trying to use the modern ignitors.
If anyone knows of modernish coils/ignitors that would work, I would be happy to research/try them out on my '79. And indeed stand to be corrected if what I have written here is incorrect.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
imported post

Looks to me like that is exactly what is needed to make it work. Send him a message and find out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,331 Posts
imported post

I like it,

But would like to know the pro's & Con's of short & Long Term HEI coil use.

Are there any long term problems, or issues.

Any issues, with regards to running full voltage or did you drop the voltage to to 7 volts,

if using full voltage what problems did you have, has anyone had to replaced their pulse generators or anything else.

Pro's

or

Con's

westgl
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
185 Posts
imported post

As advertised. Went to the local junkie and picked up a set of coils from a Neon($20- including a 30 day warranty). Two bolts and a couple wire snips and it is out. I did it on my lunch hour. Also take the plug wires and boots. You can use the boots on the coil as Dave indicated.

O'Reilly's Auto had crimp connectors ($.29 each)so I used new ones. Make sure you strip about 1/2 inch of the center conductor to bend back and crimp to the connector.

I got a couple of male lug connectors to plug into the original coil connector. I crimped and soldered the connections to the Neon connector.
I currently have the coils in with a couple of thick tie-wraps. My friend around the corner is going to weld a bracket this weekend.

I am going to take a spin and see how she rides.

When I take it apart to put the bracket on, I will take copious pictures to add on to what Dave provided.

Thanks Dave.

jon
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
39 Posts
imported post

just a thought here.... on the zrx, each stock coil (1/4 and 2/3) is about 2.8Ω. someone came up with the idea of installing stick coils to clean up the top of the motor, and allow a bit of room for maintenance, etc. the main benefit that has been realized is a smoother idle and easier start-up. the proper stick coils run +-1.4Ω each. i make the replacement harnesses and sell those kits.



so here's my thought. if the 1200 runs a wasted spark with the coil being in the same Ω range as 2 stick coils, could the sticks be used on the wing? the stick coil harness is wired so that the coils are in series, which gives the proper Ω.



you would end up with a small wiring harness plugged into the main harness, and then running to each cylinder. no more big coils and plug wires. on the zrx i use either the "hat" from the stock plug boot or an oring to seal against water in the plug well.



if someone is willing to be my huckleberry, i need the Ω of a stock coil, the colors of the wires connected to the coils, the type of connection, the distance from the main harness to each plug (with the harness running nice and neat along a rail or something) and the length of the stock plug boot from the "hat" or seal down to the lower end.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
imported post

I don't see any advantage in using stick coils on a 4 cyl. wing. They would be out in the open and wired in series if you lost 1 you would loose 2.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
imported post

Has anyone tried this on a GL1000 with a Dyna Ignition? I don't want to fry my new Dyna if it doesn't work.

Also, on the kill switch wire heating problem, has anyone tried putting a relay in for the kill switch, or just bypassing/disconnecting it altogether and only using the key?

Thanks!
:waving:
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
imported post

dsmastern wrote:
Has anyone tried this on a GL1000 with a Dyna Ignition? I don't want to fry my new Dyna if it doesn't work.

Also, on the kill switch wire heating problem, has anyone tried putting a relay in for the kill switch, or just bypassing/disconnecting it altogether and only using the key?

Thanks!
:waving:
Can't comment on the dyna thing.
I didn't know there was a kill switch wire heating problem. I have a thousand miles or so on my neon equipped 1100 with no problems at all. A relay would be a good idea anyway. I wired everything else besides the ignition through relays so it is the only significant load on the ignition switch. I dislike the kill switch anyway (had a breakdown once because of one) so I wouldn't hesitate to bypass it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
imported post

Bertbart mentioned the wires heating up going to the kill switch in post #30, so I was just thinking of a way around that.

I'd rather toast a cheap Neon coil pack than a new Dyna ignition system.
I suppose I could always just carry some stock coils on road trips, but I was looking for an easily acquired alternative. Neon coil packs are available at Auto Zones around the country. Old Honda parts are a bit harder to find.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
imported post

OK, that was on a 1000 with points, I don't think that will happen with an 1100 but I have no idea on a 1000 with dyna ignition. Better safe than sorry, I would go with a relay on that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
imported post

I always use the key. I can't remember when I have used a kill switch since I've mostly had older bikes that didn't come with them. (I may end up disconnecting mine anyway.)

Would the resistor have anything to do with protecting the points or Dyna system?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,407 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
imported post

Yes it would reduce the load on the wiring and primary controls. Whether it would still allow the coil to function properly I don't know. From what I know about how ballast resistors work it should, that is something I might investigate when I get time and think of it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3 Posts
imported post

I have run the Dyna system on my 1000, with the ballast cut out of the circuit with out any problems for more than 10,000 miles trouble free. Just my experience.



Bob
 
21 - 40 of 195 Posts
Top