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ok - so i want to verify...

When doing this conversion, the secondary resistors on the plug wire ends can be removed if I am not concerned about radio noise? I buy spark plug wire in bulk because im always doing something like this - and i think i have enough boots and connectors to make something work - as long as i can ditch those ends..

My last project was a vw jetta running itb's from a gsx1000 and megasquirt.. I used a subaru coilpack for that project - it was quite a bit smaller and lighter than this neon pack, but i don't recall what the resistance was on it.. might be another suitable replacement??

I have a standard and don't plan on rockin' the tunes on this bike, so im not too concerned about that noise - as long as the interference wont screw something else up. I am very noob with bike mechanic'n, so this probably wont be the last time i verify something before i jump into it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #42
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Getting rid of the resistor caps should cause no problems. Don't know about the Subaru coils but they may work. One thing to look for is the wire gauge going to the coil, if it is about the same gauge as the wires on the OE coils it probably has about the same power requirement.
 

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thanks - I dont quite remember what guage the wire was, but i know it was close if it wasn't the same.. I can tell you it would be easier to get in the hole if it would work..

Here is one claim on the resistance being between 10 and 15 ohms..
Link

Here is a pic of one like I used..
 

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Discussion Starter #44
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Some coils have to have the ballast resistor, otherwise they will burn out. They are designed to operate on lower voltage and with the ballast in line the voltage at the coil increases with higher RPM as the dwell time decreases so the spark will not get weaker at high speed.
 

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Well guess ill give it a try and see if it makes my 83 better as i think its a bit sluggish. Now the stupid question on how to wire the coils to the bikes wiring as to what goes where some of us are no good with electrical systems
 

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Discussion Starter #46
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britman wrote:
Well guess ill give it a try and see if it makes my 83 better as i think its a bit sluggish. Now the stupid question on how to wire the coils to the bikes wiring as to what goes where some of us are no good with electrical systems
Pretty simple really. The coil will sit in the frame with the plug terminals pointed to each side, the primary connector will face either left or right depending on how you mount it, pointing right seems to work best. There are 3 wires on the primary connector and 3 to the original coils. The black/yellow wire from the bike goes to the center wire, the yellow will go to the front wire in the coil plug, the blue to the rear. Then the plug wires go on, the front 2 plug wires go to the front coil terminals, the rear to the rear.
 

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Well, my local auto parts places don't sell the parts anymore to build wires.. Far be it for napa, schucks, federated or autozone to care parts i NEED :) I talked schucks (i guess they are actually oreilly's now) into ordering me some solid core wire by promising to buy more when i need to redo the wires on my aircooled v'dubs.. Looks like i used about 6 feet of wire..

I then went to autozone and grabbed the cheapest set of wires they had (i will get the part number next time i see them), dissasembled them for their terminals and boots at both ends. Then i took the Honda Resistor ends out of the spanky honda boot covers and shoved the el-cheapo autozone spark plug boots in their place. It was a bit like putting a square peg in a round hole, but they went in easy enough without lubrication.

I will have a bit over 23$ into the wires when im done..

I am am almost finished with the wires - when i am, i will post some pics. Hopefully, i can get to the mount for the coil tonight - I think im going to try something other than angle iron (i have some plate scrap and a buddy's plasma torch.. lol).. I think the coilpack would be better mounted with the connector on the left, since thats where the rest of the cabling is stock (there is a mount for 3 connectors on the old coilpack mount that im going to try to keep). I dont expect a challenge with the wiring - im just hoping this junkyard coilpack ($30) is still functioning!

All in all, Im changing out the coilpack and throwing new (better) wires at this thing for about 53$ and a bunch of hobby-time so far..
 

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The Zone is asking a lot more than that - 85.99$ here.. They guy at the 'yard tried to get 50 for it - said they sold for 150 new.. my wife told him he she would only pay 30 - he took it.. sometimes its nice to have a hot blonde wife :)

I was trying to do this without ordering anything online.. I was assuming (silly me) the auto part store would carry wire, connectors and boots in stock.. the guy at schucks actually told me i had to order the connector kit online, because he couldn't even order it from his store.. I expect that from them, but napa and federated? comon.. building wires this way make sore fingers :)

oh - and i was trying to save some money too.. the "kit" costs about 3x's what i have into my wires at this point... the cheapest i could find spiral wound kits for locally is 2x's what i have into mine.. no-one carries solid core kits (instock) locally..
 

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...try Campbell's Supply or Tractor Supply if they're out your way. Them old tractors don't use anything but copper-core wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #51

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Well, i went outside and finished it up.. nice to have a bike that starts and runs again :)

So here are some pictures of the wires - assembled..




And here are some pictures of the install.. here we have whats left after the removal of the old coils..


Prepping the front set of wires (yellow to be attached to the left wire on the connector with the coil lined up in the install).


soldered and shrink tubed..


continued on the power and rear (blue) wires (the center wire on the new connector) - not sure why, but the previous owner ran a new hat wire to the coils - which i will be using.. other wise, you would take the power off one of the black wires with the yellow stripe (not to be confused with the yellow wire with the black stripe!) Notice i soldered BOTH yellow wires together and BOTH the blue wires together (look at the last picture it will make sense)..


I made a mount from some heavy sheet metal i had laying around.. simply a square shape with a hole in each corner - and a hole in the center i used to mount it to the frame with.. i think they explain themselves..



and from the right (foot brake) side..


she purs like a kitten - I'm outta here - i havent gotten a ride in for a couple days - im jonesin'!:action:
 

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Thanks for posting that. It is the first one I have seen on a 1200. I do know someone who has put one on his 1200 but I haven't had a report from him.
 

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no problem :) I do have a question.. the previous owner ran power straight from the battery to the coil - no relay - is this ok? or should i get a relay in there?

edit: I think im gonna do This..
 

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Yes it should have a relay and that diagram is perfect. I have no idea why someone would want a constant hot wire to the coils.
 

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I've had this thread bookmarked for a long time. It's an alternative that sparked my interest. I think I thanked Dave about a year ago for it and now thanks to Prozac (love that screen name). I've gotta think that a coil/wires/caps upgrade would wake up or at least "boost" the ignition on my good old 1200. My coils and plug wires are original and work well enough but I'd imagine have seen better days. I've gone over Prozac's posting above several times. It looks pretty simple but, a 1200 coilpack for dummies tutorial, would be an ideal addition to the forum. Again, great job Prozac thank you. Have you noticed any difference with this new setup?
 

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Considering i put about 300 miles on this bike before i did the conversion, and about 125 after (so im no expert), the bike is running alot better in my opinion. It even starts cold using less choke!

And i don't think i thanked Dave yet either - THANKS DAVE!

I have found so much useful information on this site over the past couple weeks - I think all in all, you guys have probably already saved me a couple hundred bucks in dealer parts.. so THANK YOU STEVE! too :)
 

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You might want to follow this..
wiring issues

I don't think it has anything to do with this mod, as the symptoms i was having disappeared for the most part - meaning the new coil was putting less stress on the icm than the original.. so don't panic on this mod.. but, if this works, it could provide another layer of protection on the ignitors (transistor drivers)..

I didn't want to highjack this thread on a different, but related topic..
 

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so i put on another cdi today.. took the cover off to monitor transistor chip temperatures so i dont fry them.. again.. after about 1 minute of idling, the heatisink is hot enough to start a faint wisp of smoke - so obviously something is amis.. as soon as i find my @#$ multimeter i will check the primary resistance on the coil to make sure the coil isn't bad..

the bike seems to run good.. any ideas would be appreciated..

edit: ok - just tested the coil pack resistance (measured 11k between aposing towers and .6 between 1/2 2/3 on wiring connector) and it seems to be fine - any ideas as to why these transistors (drivers) are getting so toasty?
 
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