Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Hi follks, I am looking at buying a 1987 aspy. when i took it for a test drive the other day i had a hard tiime getting it to go into neutral after the ride, is this normal on the wings? or is it just something that takes a little finesse. thanks in advance, i'm learning alot from this GREAT goldwing site.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
421 Posts
imported post

might want to check the shifter bolt, if it's loose it can cause problems.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
imported post

there are some bikes that want to go from 1 to 2 or 2 to 1 so it does take some finesse. Rocking the bike helps.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
83 Posts
imported post

When I bought my 84 GL1200 it had floorboards with heel toe shifter and it was hard to find neutral. I went to the stock pegs and shifter and shifting to neural was no trouble at all.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
71 Posts
imported post

On my 85 1200a, sometimes it is hard to get neutral, but other times, it is easy. I figure it is the way I shift and a normal thing. :baffled:

By the way, WELCOME:clapper:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
759 Posts
imported post

The loose bolt can cause the problem. I learned long ago to try to shift to neutral while still rolling. Too loose a clutch cable can also cause the problem.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
247 Posts
imported post

Hi,

Try getting into neutral just befor it comes to a stop. Also, I beld my clutch line, made finding neutral a lot easier, also eliminated clutch drag.

TOJ
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,079 Posts
imported post

Hey lboodge,

:waving:Welcome to the Best GoldWing Site on the WWW:waving:

My 1984 Aspy has the same problem. When it is cold, it will slip right into neutral. When it gets warmed up and after a ride, neutral is a little hard to find, sometimes.I too have found that if I shift into neutral just before stopping,it seems to go in a little better.
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

I've always found it easiest to shift all the way down and then lift a toe for neutral. Like most bikesit takes a littlefinesse with the clutch to go through the gears while stopped.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,191 Posts
imported post

 I have found that neutral is a lot easier to "find" , on MY 1200, even with Heel & toe shifter, for about a month after the Annual MMO oil treatment ... lots of gunge comes out, and neutral seems to "pop" into place , for a while.. SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
imported post

exavid wrote:
I've always found it easiest to shift all the way down and then lift a toe for neutral. Like most bikesit takes a littlefinesse with the clutch to go through the gears while stopped.
my harley will ONLY go into neutral this way, from second gear it is straight to first heading down. As mentioned above all bikes can be hard to shift when stopped. I am sure all of us have stopped at a light with out down shifting and then have had a heck of a time getting into first gear.... it is esepcially hard to do if you are wearing your kilt at the same time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,079 Posts
imported post

rcmatt007 wrote:
it is esepcially hard to do if you are wearing your kilt at the same time.
and even harder if your dirk is hangin' out the bottom...........
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

lboodge wrote:
Hi follks, I am looking at buying a 1987 aspy. when i took it for a test drive the other day i had a hard tiime getting it to go into neutral after the ride, is this normal on the wings? or is it just something that takes a little finesse. thanks in advance, i'm learning alot from this GREAT goldwing site.
Lboodge, if you are new to that bike it might take a little while to adjust to finding neutral.. On stubborn ones it sometimes helps to take it down into 1st then back up into neutral..

If the clutch bushing in the hand lever is worn that can also make finding neutral difficult as the clutch doesn't then fully release.

Those older Wings also can get air into the hydraulic clutch system & that alone can make finding neutral with it running a real pain..

Probably not a major problem there but just a little looking (or familiarization) will show the problem..

Twisty
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,871 Posts
imported post

If at a dead stop, try a little rev of the throttle and as the rpm's drop down it'll slip into neutral.

Kyle
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,079 Posts
imported post

Along these lines....when I pull in my clutch and am sitting at a stop light with the bike in gear, if i rev the motor a little, the bike will start to move forward. I have the clutch all the way in but it still wants to move forward. If at an idle, it is fine. What gives?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
imported post

the wet sump clutches want to do that, that is also why when you first put it in gear you will want the barkes on, and why it is best to start it in neutral as well. nearly lost my harley starting it in gear and the clutch not all the way enaged
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

1984GL1200A wrote:
Along these lines....when I pull in my clutch and am sitting at a stop light with the bike in gear, if i rev the motor a little, the bike will start to move forward. I have the clutch all the way in but it still wants to move forward. If at an idle, it is fine. What gives?
If it does it with the engine cold it's justlubrication fluiddrag on the clutch plates, but I've never noticed that on either of my Wings when warmed up. Wonder if a little clutch bleeding ceremony might not be needed? How far does the lever come in to release the clutch? Could possibly be something to do with the type and weight of lubrication fluidyou're using too. Notice I did not mention o*l?
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top