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Hey Everyone.

I was running 3.4 Qts in GL1100, and myNeutral light ws OFF. I added the other6 partsof the quart, and then my Neutral light started coming ON. I always parked it on the CENTER STAND. I leftI on the side stands overnight, rode it yesterday, after sitting on the side stand, No Neutral light come on until 1 mile, and when I went to start it this morning, after leaving it on the side stand overnight, no Neutral Light when I put it in gear today, so check and see if you have too much oil in. I used to drain mine to check it, and my Owners MAnual says 3.4 Qts for my GL1100. I am going to drain some tommorrow, and just have 3.4 qts in it and I bet it will clear this up. I am also going to have my oil pressure checked also.

Good Luck,'

Hope this helps,

Nightrider1
 

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kind of unusual, I belive your neutral light is on a switch on the tranmission cover where the "external" shift cam is located.... don't know why the amount of oil would effect it. I never measure how much oil I put in at an oil change, I just fill it until I get to the full mark.
 

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The neutral switch is in the oil but at the bottom so it would be submerged even if it were quite a bit low on oil.
I think the amount of oil in it and the neutral light situation are a coincidence. More likely the wire that goes down the front behind the timing cover is chaffed and grounding out sometimes.
 

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I'll check it also.
Thanks,
Nightrider1
 

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Depends on the year, the early 1100s had the low right side mounted neutral switch while the later ones had the neutral switch behind the front cover. The early ones were sensitive to carbon build up. I had one that got pretty iffy. Removing it and cleaning it by flushing with carb cleaner and compressed air, several times, cured it of it's bad habits. There seems to be a lot fewer problems with the later switch, it uses a wiping action of it's contacts instead of a push button type action of the older one. Apparently that keeps more crud cleaned off. The new one is also located higher up in the block so it probably lives above the normal oil level.
 

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Davogd430,

What if they were "Presure Sensitive" to be able to show the user he/she had too much oil in it? (The Honda waco Team, etc... Done strange things) I did not get to drain it today, because of running my mom towal marts. Crazy.Iwill have to do it when I find time. It shows over a little full, and I dont use any oil, no leaks, and one the radiator subject steaming, It doesn't do it anymore. Reservoir is still the same. I did find some straw in my radiator, where it could have absorbred some spill after I flushed and cleaned it out.

Thnaks for all the input everyone. I appreciate it.

Nightrider1

Davogd430 wrote:
The neutral switch is in the oil but at the bottom so it would be submerged even if it were quite a bit low on oil.
I think the amount of oil in it and the neutral light situation are a coincidence. More likely the wire that goes down the front behind the timing cover is chaffed and grounding out sometimes.
 

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Nightrider1 wrote:
Davogd430,

What if they were "Presure Sensitive" to be able to show the user he/she had too much oil in it? (The Honda waco Team, etc... Done strange things) I did not get to drain it today, because of running my mom towal marts. Crazy.Iwill have to do it when I find time. It shows over a little full, and I dont use any oil, no leaks, and one the radiator subject steaming, It doesn't do it anymore. Reservoir is still the same. I did find some straw in my radiator, where it could have absorbred some spill after I flushed and cleaned it out.

Thnaks for all the input everyone. I appreciate it.

Nightrider1
Nah, don't think so, it's just a simple switch that grounds the neutral light. Maybe too much oil loosened some grunge that got into the contacts.
 

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you might also try draining a quart of oil, adding a quart of MMO and see if it cleans up the switch (drain this mix after about 200 miles)
 

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What appears to happen to the old style neutral switches is a build up of carbon inside the switch. Carbon is a fine conductor so it can easily bypass the contact to ground. Another possibility is the plunger can get stuck due to gunk build up. Since most of us leave the bike parked in neutral the switch contacts would be closed for long times with gunky oil surrounding them. That stuff could get thick enough to over come the spring that pulls the contacts apart. As I've mentioned I've been able to resurrect a bad old style switch with solvent flushes and compressed air.
 

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I do believe my problem is solved!
Nightrider1
 
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