Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
503 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

The neutral light on my 84 GL1200A wont light when bike is in neutral. Yes, could be just a bulb, but I MUST pull in the clutch lever to start the bikeeven when its in neutral gear. Are these two things related??It was like this when I bought this couch and now I wish to fix it. Any ideas??

Thanks

Speedbird
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4 Posts
imported post

Sounds like the Shift Sensor Sw is defective, or maybe a PO had the lower front engine cover off (Water pump Maint?) and didn't line it up with the shaft that rotates itwhen he reassmbled it. There's also a diode that the neut signal goes through before the starter relay and that circuit is parallel to the Clutch switch circuit. Since the starter works when you pull the clutch I think it's more the switch or diode.
Honda Maint manual has a test procedure to verify the Shift sensor... (pg 18- 19) Pull the faux tank. There's a 6 cond connector just right of the left storage box area of the fairing, mounted through a steel mount baffle.make sure the transmission is in Neutral. Put an ohmeter leadon the The Lg/R wire connector (should have continuity to ground). For Aspencade the text says to test the signal with the connector disconnected, test the upper side(front)of the connector.If not, could be the diode or the switch. You could try different gears and see if continuity shows up, that would tell you if the switch is okay-just not positioned correctly.
If it's the switch you'll need to get a gasket kit, remove the lower front engine case cover to get at it. If it was positioned correctly it could be defective (not read ofthat happening, but...a possibility).
Good luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,088 Posts
imported post

Ray sums it up well. But if you haven't had the front engine cover off and the light was working before then it's not a misaligned switch. The easiest thing to check/replace is the dash bulb, but this still requires removal of the windshield, dash cover, clocks...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
imported post

since it was like this when you bought it, it sounds like it may have become missaligned when someone changed the water pump. fixing this also affects the timing so it is important to do.

when you get the tranmission vover off, you will se the sensor swithc. It must be grounded to work , or you will spin it around forever and it will never work. Have your helper watch the light as you turn it while grounded until the light comes on. make sure the bike is in neutral, and the sensor should go back right then.

however, do check the bulb first you would hate to do all that work for naught. It may also be that the sensor is bad in which case the light will not work at all.

rodger:1000darkblue::12blue:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
612 Posts
imported post

Why not check with the previous owner to see if he had the pump done and if the problem started after that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
503 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
imported post

Man, this sounds like a major deal to fix. Can the average joe with average tools do this in an afternoon or must I go to a shop where they really dont want to deal with an old bike? Thanks for the help guys.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
imported post

actually, no this isn't a major job it just takes time and it all depends on whether you wish to pay a shop for the time or do it yourself. Hopefully you have a haynes or clymer manual. You can remove the transmission cover without removing the radiator, but it is easier if you do. you will also need a 8mm wrench. drain the oil and coolant. there are several bolts to remove the cover (I once missed one and buggered up the cover trying to get it off-that is why my '78 leaks oil) also disconnect where the collant pump peice connects with the radiator. the cover then comes off. the sensor is on the left if you look from the prospective of the front wheel, and it is attached to the cover... it has a thin bar which goes in a mechnism on the shift mechnism. it is really just a matter of lineing it up... but when you check it with the key on, it must be grounded to "sense". I would recommend you also change all the gaskets and O rings when youdo this job. I have found that OEM work better than after-market.



hope your highland games are great!
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top