[mag]

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I read that with these symptoms, it shows the switch is still good, but the neutral switch diode is shorting, causing current to flow through both the switch and the diode when it shouldn't. To test the switch first: I put a digital multimeter on the neutral switch, black probe to frame, and red to the switch center/lead. With the transmission in gear, the meter reads 'open/infinite.' When in neutral, i get a slight continuity/voltage reading (.2v). How could this be the case if the light stays on? Wouldn't i also see slight continuity from the switch when in gear to cause the neutral indicator light to remain (dimly) on? My understand is that 'infinity' reading means no current passes through. I tested both diodes and they both read 7.3k for resistance.

 

[AZWinger]

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Does the light go out if you disconnect the switch?

If yes then it must be a faulty switch.

If no then it sounds like a short in the wiring somewhere. Some current is getting around those diodes somewhere. Follow the wiring out looking for chaffed or bare signal wires grounding out.

Bob :11grey:

 

[mag]

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I can't disconnect the switch at source. Pulling the diode does nothing -- light stays on.

 

[AZWinger]

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Diodes should read infinite in one direction and a short in the other. Unless it's a Zener diode. 7.5K doesn't sound right.

Did you swap the leads and check the diodes in both directions?


Bob

 

[mag]

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yes, infinite in one direction and 7.2-7.3 in the other. They say 7.3 on them as well..

 

[AZWinger]

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Should be good then.

I would start looking upstream from the switch then. Maybe a chaffed or bare wire shorting out?

If you have schematics and can determine what you should get, you can try ohming the wiring out at the switch and go point-to-point from there.

Did you do a voltage check at the diode? I don't know if it should be 7 volts from the regulator or 12 volts from the battery. If it's 12 volts and should be only 7 volts the diodes could be passing some voltage (Zener diodes) causing the problem. I don't know why they would use Zeners though.

Bob

I just looked at the schematics for my 83. It looks like the power source for all the gauge warning/info lightsis the 7 volt rectifier. I would think yours is the same.

 

[mag]

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So, if the switch shows 'infinity' when the bike's in gear, then it must be shorting somewhere past, right? I'll test the diode for voltage. I know it has a line in from the 'acc.' fuse circuit.

 

[AZWinger]

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Yes. If the switch is infinite (open) when in gear and low resistance or (short) when in neutral then the switch should be good.

I would think the problem would be in the wiring between the switch and the indicator light. :gunhead:

I know others have fought this battle before.:thumpingmad:Maybe one of them will chip in with a solution.:doh:If all else fails there is always the black tape fix! :shock:

Bob

 

[mag]

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Thanks, Bob. This happened right after putting some Lucas treatment in the crankcase, so i was hoping it was gummed from the inside. Apparently not. The dim neutral light flickers slightly when turn signals are activated. Definitely a short.

 

[mag]

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i tested for voltage at the neutral switch to diode connector plug. It has voltage in at neutral, nothing when in gear. With diode plugged in, voltage in and out at neutral, and nothing when in gear. It seems to prove that the short is after the diode...wierd.

 

[mag]

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Any thoughts on this? Is my diagnosis correct, or could it still be internal gunk at the switch?

 

[mag]

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I am very happy to report that my neutral switch magically started working again! I started the bike in 1st gear, with the clutch in, and the light went off! It went back to the same previous problem temporarily, but resolved itself again. My assumption is that the engine flush with MMO cleaned the switch plunger inside. Either that, or the clutch lever circuit, ie having to have the clutch lever in to start the bike, was faulty.

 

[globetrotter]

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Dim lights also indicate "loss of an earth" somewhere so that it is finding a return through something else :shock:

 

[twisty]

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mag wrote:

I am very happy to report that my neutral switch magically started working again! I started the bike in 1st gear, with the clutch in, and the light went off! It went back to the same previous problem temporarily, but resolved itself again. My assumption is that the engine flush with MMO cleaned the switch plunger inside. Either that, or the clutch lever circuit, ie having to have the clutch lever in to start the bike, was faulty.

Mag, someplace I saw a service bulletin on that very problem (not sure what year or model Wing though).. I don't remember the exact wording but it read something to the effect that if the neutral light glows after washing the bike it could be moisture related & should go out after the bike is run for a while & heats enough to dry the connections out.. Can't remember if it gave the effected connectionlocation or not..

Any chance your problem appears after washing the bike?

Twisty

 

[mag]

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Twisty -- interestingly, the problem ocurred RIGHT after putting in a big glob of Lucas treatment. I assume it gummed up the plunger inside the switch, and running a quart of MMO in the crankcase as suggested cleaned it out.

 

[twisty]

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mag wrote:

Twisty -- interestingly, the problem ocurred RIGHT after putting in a big glob of Lucas treatment. I assume it gummed up the plunger inside the switch, and running a quart of MMO in the crankcase as suggested cleaned it out.

Mag, if the Neutral light stays on dimly but brightens with trans in neutral that more points to a PARTIAL short (resistance) to ground at another point in the circuit.. Like maybe the clutch switch (that is what the diode isolates from the circuit) or possibly at the starter relay as the other function of the trans switch is to provide a ground path for the relay..

Twisty

 

[Theron]

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Read about this fix...

http://www.gl1000.info/NeutralLight.html

 

[wingnut]

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mag wrote:

Twisty -- interestingly, the problem ocurred RIGHT after putting in a big glob of Lucas treatment. I assume it gummed up the plunger inside the switch, and running a quart of MMO in the crankcase as suggested cleaned it out.

That thick Lucas stuff causes switch problems as do some other additives and old thick/gunged oil. I had this on my GL1100. Flushing the engine with engine flush mixed with cheap oil fixed the problem for me. I haven't used MMO, but I do know it's fixed the problem for other people.