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Any idieas what may be causeing my neutral light on my 1990 1500 , been like it since i got the bike 4 months ago but think its about time to do somthing about it
 

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Any idieas what may be causeing my neutral light on my 1990 1500 , been like it since i got the bike 4 months ago but think its about time to do somthing about it
 

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If the light stays on all the time it sounds as if you have a pinched wire that is grounding out. If everything else is working fine this is the only thing I can think of.
 

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Hi Terryj630 every thing else is working perfectly and have got used to it being on but if there is a problem it has to be fixed .by the sound of it it could take some finding
 

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Let me see if I can steer you in a direction to start. First, do you have an ohm meter?

The ground path for the Neutral light is a follows: C66 is the connector on the back of the instrument panel and C55 is behind the right fairing pocket, it is a white 13 pin connector. The Neutral light wire is the Light Green/Red wire, check this connector. This wire gets its ground from the Reverse Diode Assembly (D6) via the Gear position switch. The reverse diode assembly is located behind the right side saddle bag.

Try and trace this wire through the wiring harness to see if it is pinched anywhere. Also check the Gear position switch to see if it is at fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Many thanks Terry i now have a place to start looking .
dont have a meter but will check the connector and other things you mention
cheers
roger
 

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Probably has a wire shorted to earth somewhere, may take some doing to find it.
 

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Does the overdrive light work? If not I would be looking at the indicator switch.

JD
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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DriverRider yes the overdrive light works
 

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Goldwinger, try unpluging the Gear position switch and see if the Neutral light goes out, if it does the switch is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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Terry where is the switch located not got a manual yet
cheers
roger
 

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You can locate the connector for the Gear Position switch on the right side of the fairing behind the marker light, it is a Black 6 pin connector. Going from left to right it will be the last connector, the one on the far right. There are two black connector side by side, one is a 9 pin and the other is the 6 pin connector your looking for.
 

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The gear position switch is not easy to replace, as it's located behind the front transmission cover. Without a manual or experience, you will be lost. Installed wrong, it will be broken (I've done it) and have to do it again. This means a new switch, new oil, coolant, o-rings for the coolant pipes, and a big gasket for the cover itself. Plus scraping all the gasket junk off the facings. If your bike will start in gear with the clutch pulled, the switch is broken in the neutral position. This is a good place to be since you don't have to find neutral, if you kill it a a busy intersection, to restart your bike.
My guess is the PO had some knowledge of this, and left well enough alone. You may choose this option yourself, or get it done at a shop for perhaps several hundred dollars.
It's a lousy place to put the switch, my Suzuki has it just behind a side cover, no oil or coolant involved. The switch itself attaches to the cover, and must be fitted correctly over the marked protusion of the gear selector wheel, otherwise it just bends or breaks the roll pin that is suppose to fit in the slot. This is possibly what happened to yours.

Here's the cover in place with the oil filter and water pump removed. The wires to the switch are hidden behind the cables to the heater doors. They snake up behind the frame to the 6 pin black connector mentioned earlier.

Here's where the switch wires enter the cover, which is just hanging loose by the wires at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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Well it looks like i may choose to leave it as it is as i can start it in gear with clutch pulled in .
Many thanks dude what a great site this is for info
 

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I believe itthe GL1500isintended to be able to start with the kick stand up, in gear, with the clutch pulled in (disengaged), per owners manual, page 62. So would not the grounded neutral wire be the most logical thing to check ?
 

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Ericson38 wrote:
I believe it the GL1500 is intended to be able to start with the kick stand up, in gear, with the clutch pulled in (disengaged), per owners manual, page 62. So would not the grounded neutral wire be the most logical thing to check ?
If the gear position switch was working correctly, when the bike was in gear, the connection for the light would be lost as the switch rotated to the next position. All the ground wires (green) are connected in any case at the orange capped common connectors lightly taped with black electrical tape to the main harness under the right and left shelter housings. So it's the positive current that flows through each of the switch positions to the ECM. Perhaps I'm wrong, but I don't see how the neutral light could light without power through the gear position switch. I recently had all this apart in my hand several times.
 

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On page 3-15 of the shop manual, the gear switch is shown with the commutator in the N postion (instead of 1-2-3-4-5). This is the only path to ground for a good neutral switch. With this intended path to ground, current will flow from B+through the lamp and diode D6,depending on the postition of the reverser lever. The neutral switch completes the circuit to ground.



Another (defective)way to get the lamp to light all the time is for the LT GRN/RED wire from the neutral SW to be pinched to ground at another location.



With the wire from the gear switch disconnected (ay C59), it would be easy to make a resistancemeaurementwith a meter that it was not already grounded at a chafe or pinch point.



In addition, a continuity check between the gear position switch leadto ground should only show low resistance when the transmission is in neutral.
 

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Ericson38 wrote:
On page 3-15 of the shop manual, the gear switch is shown with the commutator in the N postion (instead of 1-2-3-4-5). This is the only path to ground for a good neutral switch. With this intended path to ground, current will flow from B+ through the lamp and diode D6, depending on the postition of the reverser lever. The neutral switch completes the circuit to ground.

 

Another (defective) way to get the lamp to light all the time is for the LT GRN/RED wire from the neutral SW to be pinched to ground at another location.

 

With the wire from the gear switch disconnected (ay C59), it would be easy to make a resistance meaurement with a meter that it was not already grounded at a chafe or pinch point.

 

In addition, a continuity check between the gear position switch lead to ground should only show low resistance when the transmission is in neutral.
I had it backward, you're right. My bad for not reading up on it first. It completes a ground, not a power circuit.
:gunhead:
Damn electricity anyway.
 

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Well...lets hope he finds it.:readit:
 

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cbr1000dude wrote:
Ericson38 wrote:
On page 3-15 of the shop manual, the gear switch is shown with the commutator in the N postion (instead of 1-2-3-4-5). This is the only path to ground for a good neutral switch. With this intended path to ground, current will flow from B+through the lamp and diode D6,depending on the postition of the reverser lever. The neutral switch completes the circuit to ground.



Another (defective)way to get the lamp to light all the time is for the LT GRN/RED wire from the neutral SW to be pinched to ground at another location.



With the wire from the gear switch disconnected (ay C59), it would be easy to make a resistancemeaurementwith a meter that it was not already grounded at a chafe or pinch point.



In addition, a continuity check between the gear position switch leadto ground should only show low resistance when the transmission is in neutral.
I had it backward, you're right. My bad for not reading up on it first. It completes a ground, not a power circuit.
:gunhead:
Damn electricity anyway.
You are not completely wrong, there is power there until it is grounded.
 
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