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I have a 1980 GL1100 and sometimes (more often than not) my neutral light will come on in 4th and 5th gear never in the bottom 3 gears.The bike is still in gear and runs fine. Has anyone else ever ran across this problem?
 

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According to other threads in this forum, the neutral switch gums up from inside the transmission. Apparently, replacing a quart of oil with a quart of MMO to flush, riding about 200 miles, then oil change, can clean it up. My light stays on all the time, all gears, though dimmer than neutral. I'm going to try the flush. My problem started right after i added Lucas oil treatment. I think it thickened up the oil, thus gumming up the switch.
 

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My problem has been ever since i got the bike in April. I've changed the oil twice now and use 20w-50. I talked to the person that originally owned it and he said that it just started doing that last year but was very sporadic. I noticed today that as the bike gets warmer during the ride it seems to come on more frequently. And if I hit a bump it wants to flash on and off. But it only is in 4th and 5th. I will try the flaush this weekend and go from there thanks for the info.
 

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Good luck Bo, nothing to lose but a bit of time and a few dollars for the flush. If it works it will save you having to pull the rads and front cover off the engine. :waving:
 

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Hello Bo, I hat to say it but I doub't if a flush will cure this. I think you will end up replacing the switch, but a flush can't do any harm at all.
 

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 MMO is like a gentle detergent.. and might , just might clear the varnish and crud off the switch... But its staying on.. and coming on in other gears... Could it just be loose?... and shaking its way to an on position??? SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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Black tape cures it! You don't need it!:baffled:
 

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I understand about the black tape, but it doesnt help the satisfaction of knowing its all just right...

I want to be able to say that all the systems work on my bike. My switch is acting up, too.
 

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Mr.1200 wrote:
Sounds like you got a fauty Netural light switch,located in the front cover...See your Manual as per testing it before you order a new one.
Hey Mr.1200, nice looking wheels, buddy...

I know this part is not wing related, but I promise I wont make a habit of it...

I see that Patriot logo. Congrats on an awesome team. I can hardly stand the wait for regular season to start. I am a 30 year Bronco fan...

Want to wager a digital case of your favorite cool drink? I say the Broncos have a better record at the end of the regular season. Loser has to post a picture of the winners favorite cool drink!

All meant in good fun, of course...
 

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Somewhere I read that the neutral switch can be installed incorrectly and the light will come on when it's around 4-5th gear. Basically the opposite of what it should be.

Can't find the information right this minute, but see if you can find some info about that.

Raymond
 

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Ubarw,

did you know.....

When thepolice were after "OJ Simpson" they kicked in "John Elways" door and handcuffed him!!!!

They heard on the radio they were looking for a "Slow White Bronco" !!!:goofygrin::clapper:
 

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Gentlemen,

I purchased a GL1000 this past fall and one of the many problems with it was the green neutral light was on all the time and a little brighter in neutral. The bike had sat outside for a while and like I said had a few problems. It seems that the previous owner never could get the electrical working and sold it because he just couldn’t figure out the wiring. Well, wiring is what I do. (or use to do anyway) Anyway the neutral light was driving me crazy after I got the other problems worked out. I searched all over the Internet for an answer. Found all the recommendations by well meaning people about the diodes, bad wire across the engine and bad switch. I stewed on it for quite a while then one day it just came to me what the problem was. Very simple, the switch contacts are running in oil right? Well oil has carbon in it especially after it has been in the engine a while. Could it be carbon buildup around the switch contacts opening and closing in oil?…. Humm.

OK, the problem is that carbon residue has built up around the contacts. Now how do I get the carbon off without pulling the engine to remove the switch? Edison proved that electricity passing through carbon produces heat and burns the carbon away.

OK, what to do? First I’ll tell you what I did and then I’ll tell you how it should be done. I traced the wire back to the white connector on the distribution box. It’s the lower plug facing the rear of the bike on my GL1000. It has one terminal missing and the wire to the neutral switch is the terminal opposite the missing one. Take an automobile test light, the one with a test point on one end and a wire with an alligator clip on the other. Attach the clip to the positive on your battery and touch the test point to the neutral light terminal in the un-plugged connector. You should be able to see the test light get brighter when you shift through neutral. If not, STOP HERE, your problem is different.

Still here? OK, here is what I did. I put the bike in gear then I took a piece of wire and touched it between the terminal and positive on the battery for just a second. Removed the wire and hooked up the test light and sure enough the switch was working correctly. I put the bike back together and took it for a ride. After about 50 or so miles the green light started coming back on, dim at first then got brighter again. Darn. Oh well I tied.

Next time when I went out, after a few miles, the light started working again and has worked ever since. FIXED! Fingers crossed for the long run.

Now that is what I did. Don’t do it that way. That is dangerous and could burn your wiring. Be safe and do this instead. Start with your engine COLD to help prevent problems with gasoline vapors in the crankcase. Get two wires and a working headlight or some other heavy duty 12 volt device. The idea is to burn off the carbon on the switch contacts, not burn up your wiring. The headlight will act as a current limiter. Make ABSOULTE CERTAIN that your bike is NOT in neutral. Be certain. Now touch one wire to the contact going to the neutral switch and the other wire to positive on the battery. The light should not light. If it does, disconnect it and run through the gears and make very sure you are not in neutral then try again. If the headlight stays on, you have other problems. Shorted wire or the neutral switch is shorted and will need to be replaced.

Don’t leave the headlight on but a second, it will draw much more current than your wiring is rated for and may heat up and cause much bigger problems. DO NOT shift gears with the headlight hooked up because the switch is not rated to switch that much current. Remove the headlight and test your switch with the test light. If it is off while in gear and comes on in neutral, you’re good. Put your bike together and take it for a test ride. I think there was some carbon still on my switch and clean hot oil and lots of shifting caused it to wear or fall off once I had broken it up with the high current.

I hope this helps, good luck.

This is my first Wing and I love it. Don’t know what took me so long. Be safe out there.
 

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Welcome to the forum N5HQ. That's an interestring post. Hope you will be posting here more often.
 

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Thank you very much for the welcome. Being new to the Goldwing most likely I'll be asking questions rather that giving answers. Since I spent so much time looking for a solution to the dim neutrallight problem and finding nothing I thought I would share what I found. Thanks again for the welcome and it's great to be here.
 

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N5HQ,

Very interesting and logical solution to a problem that has had a heap of GL1000/1100 owners foxed for a long long time.

Question for you: Could a long wireconnected to the positive battery terminal and with a headlamp connected up in line then be touched to the centre screw in the neutral switch itself (maybe by using a carefully aimed probe)? WHEN THE BIKE IS IN GEAR.This would avoid all the wiring and deliver the current direct to the switchto burn the carbon out?

(Alot of bikes have had mods done to the electrics so it might not always be so easy to find exactly the right terminal connector under the tank panel)

Thanks agin!
 

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Silicon Sam wrote:
Somewhere I read that the neutral switch can be installed incorrectly and the light will come on when it's around 4-5th gear. Basically the opposite of what it should be.

Can't find the information right this minute, but see if you can find some info about that.

Raymond
on the 1200's (cannot say about 1100's) the switch is tied into the external shifting mechnism (external is relative... as it is only accesible by removing the front bottom cover-called the transmssion cover) If this switch is positioned wrong when you put it back together, it will send the signal at the wrong postion.
 

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Interesting approach Wingcomander, I don't see any reason why a probe on the switch wouldn't work. The reason I did it from the connector was that by unplugging the connector, I could observe that the green light did indeed go off. If it didn’t then there is something else wrong. If that were the case then you might damage something else with the high current. If you feel certain or lucky, then your approach should be just as effective. Good luck.



I just got back from a trip to pick up another GL1000 late last night. A friend of mine bought one on ebay. First thing I noticed was the green light on and dimmer when not in gear. Looks like I will be testing my theory again real soon. He will have a few things to repair but all in all I thing he got a mechanically sound bike but the cosmetics leave a lot to be desired, nothing money won’t fix.



When I rode his bike yesterday I noticed two major things different from mine. His seems to be much lighter that mine, by my guess up to 200 pounds. They are both 1979, GL1000’s with the same Vetter package on them. Only difference I could see is his has no crash bars. They don’t weigh that much. The other thing is power. It seems like his was a 2000 cc engine when compared to mine. I know I’ll never challenge him to a race. His just has a LOT more get up and go. I was happy with mine until I rode his.
 
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