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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

84 GL1200 Standard:

Is there any ONE problem that would cause the Neutral, Oil Pressure and Overdrive lights to not light up? Or might I have three different problems?

The bike is new to me (my 4th GL1200), so I don't know if they all went out at once, or one at a time while in the possession of the previous owner.

All help is appreciated, as always!

Best regards,

Paul
 

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All they have in common is the fuse which also goes to the tail light and the gauges.
 

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Hey guys,

84 GL1200 Standard:

Is there any ONE problem that would cause the Neutral, Oil Pressure and Overdrive lights to not light up? Or might I have three different problems?

The bike is new to me (my 4th GL1200), so I don't know if they all went out at once, or one at a time while in the possession of the previous owner.

All help is appreciated, as always!

Best regards,

Paul
As Dave says with one exception. I wonder if Dave was looking at an 85. According to my manual the lights you describe are the only thing on that fuse. First bet would be the fuse. Second would be the wire (Black with a brown stripe) is open somewhere. See below. :unsure:

Screenshot (106)_LI.jpg Screenshot (104)_LI.jpg
 

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As Dave says with one exception. I wonder if Dave was looking at an 85. According to my manual the lights you describe are the only thing on that fuse. First bet would be the fuse. Second would be the wire (Black with a brown stripe) is open somewhere. See below. :unsure:

View attachment 323880 View attachment 323881
NO, I was looking at 84 but it is for an interstate which should be the same wiring. It is a spaghetti diagram so I could have been mistaken.
 

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NO, I was looking at 84 but it is for an interstate which should be the same wiring. It is a spaghetti diagram so I could have been mistaken.
Dave,
It really doesn't matter and I hesitated to even post. Than I thought what if he goes outt and sees the tail lights are OK. So I thought I might mention it just to avoid any confusion.
I like Spaghetti. 😎
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tips, guys. It's an 84 Standard

Yes, the problem seems to be the black w/brown wires not getting juice. The previous owner put in an aftermarket 7-volt regulator (see pic) and I suspect he reversed a couple of wires. I'm looking online now for wiring instructions for the regulator. Additionally, the PO messed with the ignition switch and it has some intermittent voltage dropouts.
323883


Anyone have a complete (working) Ignition switch I could buy?

Best,

Paul
 

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The 7v regulator does not affect the lights, only the gauges. Have you checked the fuses?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
All the fuses are good. I'm trying to trace the black w/ brown wires to see if there are any shorts or breaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's a thought. We'll see how desperate I get!
 

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All the fuses are good. I'm trying to trace the black w/ brown wires to see if there are any shorts or breaks.
Is that by checking for power on both sides of the fuse?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey, Dave,

I'm not 100% sure what you mean by "checking the power on both sides of the fuse," but I did pull each fuse and plugged voltmeter probes into empty slots... and they are all "live."

Interestingly enough, the fuse for the neutral light measures only 4.7 volts, but if I wiggle the ignition key just right, it jumps to 6.5 volts... and the neutral light comes on! Problem is, when I wiggle the key in just that certain way, the engine dies and everything goes dark.

The PO admitted that he had been messing with the ignition switch -- he apparently did a Frankenstein number on it by using a new (generic Chinese) upper lock section, mated to the old (OEM) electrical portion on the bottom.

He gave me the leftover parts, which include all sorts of copper contacts, itty bitty springs, ball bearings, and other scary stuff.

I have a line on a used ignition switch from an 84 Standard like mine (they are different from all the others) and that might be a big piece of the puzzle.

Thanks for your help and patience!

Paul
 

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Hey, Dave,

I'm not 100% sure what you mean by "checking the power on both sides of the fuse," but I did pull each fuse and plugged voltmeter probes into empty slots... and they are all "live."

Interestingly enough, the fuse for the neutral light measures only 4.7 volts, but if I wiggle the ignition key just right, it jumps to 6.5 volts... and the neutral light comes on! Problem is, when I wiggle the key in just that certain way, the engine dies and everything goes dark.

The PO admitted that he had been messing with the ignition switch -- he apparently did a Frankenstein number on it by using a new (generic Chinese) upper lock section, mated to the old (OEM) electrical portion on the bottom.

He gave me the leftover parts, which include all sorts of copper contacts, itty bitty springs, ball bearings, and other scary stuff.

I have a line on a used ignition switch from an 84 Standard like mine (they are different from all the others) and that might be a big piece of the puzzle.

Thanks for your help and patience!

Paul
Go to the ignition switch and jumper the red wire to the black wire. That will replicate the switch being on. If all is well then you can be pretty sure the ignition switch is bad.
 

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Hey, Dave,

I'm not 100% sure what you mean by "checking the power on both sides of the fuse," but I did pull each fuse and plugged voltmeter probes into empty slots... and they are all "live."



Paul
So it looks like you found the problem. Those fuses have a opening in the top on both sides so you can probe them for power with the fuse in place because sometimes they can have a crack in them you can't see just by looking at them & you don't have to pull the fuse to check it.
 

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To Follow up again for what Dave said. If you look at the top of blade type fuses you will notice there is 2 open slots. If you ground the test light and probe those slots you must see power at both slots. If you have power when you probe the fuse on one side only that fuse is blown or defective. It is a very easy way to positively test fuses as you do not even unplug them. Just probe in place. If you have power on both sides the fuse is good to go.

Screenshot (111)_LI.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #16
To Follow up again for what Dave said. If you look at the top of blade type fuses you will notice there is 2 open slots. If you ground the test light and probe those slots you must see power at both slots. If you have power when you probe the fuse on one side only that fuse is blown or defective. It is a very easy way to positively test fuses as you do not even unplug them. Just probe in place. If you have power on both sides the fuse is good to go.

View attachment 323899
Wow, I never noticed that!

Onward!
 

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Easy to miss. The slots get filled with dirt and dust over time. Even new you have to look to spot them. It is both a time saver and a more accurate way to test fuses. :unsure:
Mike, Not related to this thread but those "exposed medal areas" on the top of the fuse can (and did) serve another purpose for me on a GL1500.
 

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Thanks for the tips, guys. It's an 84 Standard

Yes, the problem seems to be the black w/brown wires not getting juice. The previous owner put in an aftermarket 7-volt regulator (see pic) and I suspect he reversed a couple of wires. I'm looking online now for wiring instructions for the regulator. Additionally, the PO messed with the ignition switch and it has some intermittent voltage dropouts. View attachment 323883

Anyone have a complete (working) Ignition switch I could buy?

Best,

Paul
Paul, On the GL1000 Wing's, it was not uncommon for the 7-volt reducer to fail. It failed on my '77 Wing and several other GL1000's. It powers the "fuel and temperature" gauges.

Might want to keep this in mind if you ever have such issues with your GL1200.....!!
 

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Mike, Not related to this thread but those "exposed medal areas" on the top of the fuse can (and did) serve another purpose for me on a GL1500.
Sooooo....are you going to say what you used them for?:rolleyes:
 
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