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Hi everyone, New member and poster. I am soooo glad I found this forum.

I have learned a lot from the reading i have been doing. Now on to the post.

I have a 99 1500SE with 16k miles. I bought it from my next door neighbor, so i have known and admired this bike since it was brand new.

I just took the bike to a Honda dealer in Jacksonville to get a set of E3's put on, and i asked them to check on the rear brake pedal because it was going all the way down, and they said i did not need new brake pads and that i needed to change the brake fluid due to age, and that the seals were "relaxed" due to lack of use and age and the new fluid would probably fix it. They said they could do it for $132.00. :cheeky1: I told them i could do it, no thanks.

So i started reading here the best way to do it and think i have it down, but then i started reading about timing belts, and have decided that it could use new belts also, since the old ones are 10 years old. After reading Rudys page i have decided to do it myself, i think i can handle it, after all i used to be a "Chevrolet Certified Automotive Technician" :Dbefore i became a truck driver/owner.



Now for the BIG QUESTION. I have also decided to change the brake fluid, timing belts, coolant, and oil right now.

Is there anything else i should change due to age or mileage?

The bike still has the original fork springs and oil in it, so in the future i will be tackling a set of progressives and new fluid, but not right now. $$$$$$

Just wondering if there is anything else that needs immediate attention.



Any input you can give me will be greatly appreciated!!!!!!



And again, THANK GOD FOR THIS FORUM.
 

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:waving::waving: Welcome to the World's Greatest Goldwing Site 1999JagWing! :waving::waving:



Other than the battery it sounds like you have all in hand. One thing about tires, it usually pays well to take the wheels off the bike to have tires changed. A couple of reasons number one it will reduce the cost significantly and you will pay more attention to doing the job right than a mechanic in a shop. Not to mention just becoming more familiar with your bike and it's condition is worth the effort. I have some doubts about the mechanic you took your bike to, the bit about seals relaxing has a strong scent of BS to me. The only reason your rear brake would bottom out is because of air in the system or a leak. On this bike one front caliper is linked to the rear brake system so losing the rear brake means you lost almost half of the front braking too. Before getting too excited about it I'd drain and refill the brake system. With the linked brakes you start bleeding on the front linked brake. The brake line passes up and over the steering head so the brakeline is in the shape of an upside down U which means it traps air. It can take quite a bit of bleeding. A service manual is almost a necessity with one of these complex bikes. You can order one from Helm Inc. (google them) or you can download a free copy from the "Reference and FAQ" forum here on the website.

 

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It already has a new battery in it. I just replaced it not long ago.

I can't figure out how air got in the system, the system hasn't been messed with in a couple of years. I do get some braking out of the rear brakes, but i can't lock up the tires on pavement.

I plan on getting one of those brake bleeder vacuum pumps from harbor freight and suck out the old fluid while it is replaced with fresh fluid, If that doesn't get out the air, then i don't know what will.

As far as the tires go, I took it to the Honda dealer because they had the best price on tires i could find ANYWHERE, including the internet, and they installed them for FREE while i waited. A set of E3's for $283.54 out the door!!!!!

BUT i thought $130 to bleed the brakes was a little steep!!!!



I read somewhere that I could use auto coolant in the wing as long as it is silicone-free? Is that right? it seems like it would be a whole lot cheaper than using hondaline stuff.



And i am assuming that i can use DOT3 brake fluid?



Thanks for all the info!!!!
 

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Prestone 50/150 and Peak Extended Life anti-freeze are both silicate free. They work just fine. Most anti-freeze manufacturers will show whether their different brands are silicate free on their web sites too if you want to check another brand. I'm amazed at the price you got for tires with mounting. I've never found a place that would do it that reasonably with the tires on the bike. Usually takes an hour even with the right set up just to remove and replace the wheels. Most places want $85-100 per hour. Seems odd they'd be so cheap on tires but so costly to bleed the brakes which take only a few minutes. Honda calls for DOT4 in the manual.
 

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Congrats on the new to you bike and welcome to the Forum! :waving:

Only thing left to change out would be the rear drive oil(Hypoid 80-90 weight) and the 3 filters, which will require you to remove a bunch of tupperware and getting to know your bike better. ;)



I ordered my 3 filters from Cheap Cycle Parts and was pleased with their quick service and parts availability, although their shipping is not cheap.

These are all original Honda Parts, sealed in Honda packaging

Air Filter Element - part # 17205-MN5-003 - $28.76

Sub Air Filter - part # 17253-KT8-000 - $2.00

Cruise Element Filter - part # 36532-MN5-005 - $1.27



For more info on the 2 smaller filters, you can read more here.

Make sure you change out the sub air filter, as they have a habit of disintegrating and getting sucked into the carbs, causing all kinds of havoc!



Dusty
 

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I can voucher for Dusty's comment on the sub filter. Mine looked like it was original and disintegrated in my hand when I removed it. 96 1500 / 212,000 klms
 

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Thanks guys for all the good info.

i am going to get all those air filters and see if i can find them on the bike.

I have ONE more question.:dude:

Since i am a truck driver/owner, i use full synthetic gear oil in my tranny and rears. What is the difference between hypoid gear oil and full synthetic gear oil?

I am a big believer in full synthetic gear oils and i want to know if i can change my rear oil to full synthetic, but i don't really know the difference between hypoid and synthetic.
 

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exavid wrote:
I'm amazed at the price you got for tires with mounting. I've never found a place that would do it that reasonably with the tires on the bike. Usually takes an hour even with the right set up just to remove and replace the wheels. Most places want $85-100 per hour. Seems odd they'd be so cheap on tires but so costly to bleed the brakes which take only a few minutes.

Now you know why i jumped on the tire deal they are running. With them mounting the tires for free, i could not pass it up.:clapper:

Here's how it breaks down.

tires $240.99

Other $24.00 (supplies, tire disposal fee)

Fla Tax $18.55

Total Billed $283.54
 

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1999JagWing wrote:
I have ONE more question.:dude:

Since i am a truck driver/owner, i use full synthetic gear oil in my tranny and rears. What is the difference between hypoid gear oil and full synthetic gear oil?

I am a big believer in full synthetic gear oils and i want to know if i can change my rear oil to full synthetic, but i don't really know the difference between hypoid and synthetic.
You should be OK, as long as it's in the 70W-90 range.



Dusty
 

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I had the same rear brake issue when I purchased my 1500. The PO said it was sitting for about a year and a half. Brake fluid will absorb moisture (even through the rubber lines) if it is not "agitated" or used for a while. All that I did was flush the old fluid out of the rear master cylinder and brake line with new brake fluid. Stopped the "mush to the floor". I have now put almost 20,000 miles with no problem... easy fix..:)
 
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