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Greetings everyone !

I have been lurking on this forum for the past few months, preparing and educating myself for when I get a new (to me) '81 GL1100I. Well, after months of negotiating, she was finally given to me for Christmas.. WOW! First thing I did was look in the gas tank, and sure enough, tons of rust, as expected... I've decided on the Rusteco product for this and should arrive next week... From what I've read, should be a no-brainer... We'll see... Also, I've torn apart the rear brakes. The calipers look good, just minor corrosion, which I cleaned with the ultrasonic and buffed out the cylinder walls with a scotchbrite pad... The master cylinder wall though is fully corroded, almost no usable surface left.. I tried removing the piston after spraying with PB Blaster, letting it sit overnight, and an easyout and was successfull with the front half. The rear half though is totally locked up, and I'm afraid, this one is toast..
Here are my questions, which I'm sure are the first of very many...

1) I have found another rear master cylinder on ebay from an 80 GL1100.. Are they compatible?

2) When I do the tank treatment, should I leave the sending unit in place, or should I remove it. Also, if removal is needed, how should I do this? In looking at the pics, I don't want to bend the sending unit arm...

Many thanks !

Paulie
 

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Hello welcome to the forum.. welcome to the goldwing family :)

i think the 80 rear master will do on ur 81.
 

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The retaining nut/ring for the sending unit on my 82 came off by tapping with a punch to loosen it. Once the retainer is off, the sending unit comes out easily. You just need to be gentle as you guide it out.

I bought Evapo-Rust (19.99/gal) from Harbor Freight last night, and it seems to be working ok. Overnight took care of most of the bottom, but I'm guessing it'll take a few days to do the whole tank. I'm leaving the sender in, as I need to rotate the tank to all six sides to clear up all the rust.

I'm open to suggestions on the screens - I'm going to try compressed air from the outside.
 

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Is the tank out of the bike? Really that's the best way to clean and then seal a tank..sender should come to clean the tank up it jsut pulls out with a twist to get the float out of the hole.

There are several ways to clean the tank..acid(muractic) then sealer, electrolysis then sealer, take to radiator shop for cleaning and sealing or nickel plating and rust changing/sealing products. Do you have a preference.

Do a search on gas tank cleaning or sealing lots of threads on the subject.

Some links to various methods are:

http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/projects-how-write-ups/49040-help-rusted-gas-tank.htm

http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.htm

http://www.westcoastcoating.com/ por15 a sealer system one I used a couple of times..acid wash and then POR15 sealer. They have a kit for motorcycles $29.00
 

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Yep, the braking system on the '80 and '81 are identical. Not so with the other GL1100 models.
 

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As you remove the fuel sending unit, the gasket is available new. I just looked it up on BikeBandit.com. It's part number there is 152144-001. It's a whopping three dollars.
 

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Thanks for the many quick replies! I went ahead and bought the rear master cylinder from ebay for $30. I hope it's in better shape than mine was.. We'll see in a couple days..
Yep, the tank is removed from the bike and was able to get the sending unit out of the tank without any damage. It's covered with rust. Hard to believe this will work after it's cleaned up... I'm debating whether to use Rusteco or the Evapo-rust product.. Gotta do some more reading.

Next on the long list are the timing belts and carbs..
 

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For the tank, I went with the Evapo-rust product due to cost and it was available at the auto parts store... Great stuff.. Did the sending unit and gas cap separately just to test it.. Before I couldn't tell what was underneath all the rust, now no rust at all, pretty impressive, and the arm moves freely and measures out ok...
 

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Hi Paulie, Welcome to a great forum from the north country. You never mentioned how long the bike had been sitting. Have you checked all fluids? Also grease the back wheel spline gear with that molly grease 60 incase it has not been done in years. Will save you money and time. and of course get to know your bike from front to back. Let us know how everything is going. Good luck. :) :waving:
 

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You know, you're right.... I've had tons of bikes but never a restoration.
She's an '81 GL1100I with 14985 original miles. She last had plates in '94, and had been sitting in a heated warehouse until last week, when I rescued her and brought her home. After a good wash, she looks almost brand new, the paint is perfect, just had a ton of dust and whatever on top. The rear wheel and tank are out and i've sent the carbs to Pistol Petes for rebuilding. One thing I did notice is that the intake valves had a very heavy coating of carbon on them, so I think the carbs weren't setup right and the bike was running super rich.. Also the plug drains for # 1 and 3 were plugged, so the plugs were really rusted.. Soaked them in PB Blaster overnight and after cleaning everything up, was able to open up the drains and then removed the plugs. They looked really carbon fouled. Gonna have to get new plugs, plug boots, and wiring though.
Yesterday, I took a shop brush and coated the frame and motor with degreaser, then washed her off. Much cleaner now.
The rear master cylinder should arrive next week, so that will be done.. I just received the new Progressive shocks for both front and rear, so parts are starting to trickle in.
The Evapo-rust is really working.. I'm going to let it stay in the tank, till I reinstall it.
Today, I'm going to do the rear spline gear (as suggested !)and then remove the radiator and start in on the belts.. After reading the horror stories, it's the only thing, i'm worried about getting right. But I have the manuals, and this great forum, so i'll just do it step by step..
 

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If I were you, I would also check the tires very carefully for age cracks between the treads if the tires have any. If not it won't be hard to see them. Also the side walls. Check the Mfg Datre on the side of the tire also. This will be a good dry run for you. But after all said and done, I would replace the tires with NEW ones. :cool:
 
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