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I won't be buying any triple compounds till they been out at least a couple years if I ever buy any!

I'll let the rest of the world have the blow outs, cracks, splits, bad casings, delaminations, and any other problems they may have.

Maybe someday after they have been REAL WORLD REAL USE TESTED and proven to be safe and reliable, THEN and ONLY THEN I may try one!
Lab testing and computer tested means NOTHING in the real world!

I bought a set of Sears tires for a car once, 3 of 4 blew out and were replaced free.
I later found out they were discontinued because they were Kevlar belted, and though Kevlar is stronger than steel the belts simply did not hold up to heat generated in tires so there was tons of blow outs happening just like MINE.
I did not like the fact I was basically putting my life on the line to test their new type of tire! I'm sure they passed lab testing, but that means nothing in real world use and they got terminated!

I don't think I like the idea of dual compound anyway!
The Bridgestone Spitfires are a dual compound, harder center and softer sides for same reason as these new Dunlops.
My rear for no reason at all got tons of splits/cracks in a fresh new tire in less than 5K miles. Guess where they were all at. Yep, right, correct, just left and right of the center tread in the casing! I bet that was really close to where the dual compounds meet too!
I've seen quite a few pictures of other Bridgestones with the same splits/cracks in the same area.
I know for a fact my tire was never abused in any way what so ever and was rated for far more weight than my 1100 ever carried.
Just plain bad tires, at least at that time! 2010
Maybe just a bad batch? Or bad design?

Really my opinion on these several compound tires is not that good anyway.
I mean if a person rides like they got some sense in the curves and can maintain proper control of their bike in the first place there are not that many accidents due to loss of traction. Maybe a few like hitting an unexpected wet area in a turn, it happens, but not the main reason for most wipe outs.
Most wipe outs seem to be rider error and loss of control, not tire related!
I can grind my crash guards with 7 year old E3's and also with my Austone car tire on the rear.
Not that I wanted to! As I said, rider error! I goofed up, I admit it!
I hit a turn much harder than I really wanted and actually scraped the crash guards! The E3's had decent tread but were 7 years old!
I also done the same thing, different turn with the Austone car tire on rear and a Pilot Activ rear mounted on front with same bike months later!
My tires BOTH TIMES I did it held the road perfectly fine. What more can you ask for?? How much harder can you hit a turn other than grinding the crash guards? LOL
Ok, maybe some crappy crotch rocket with twice the lean angle? But I have blown away a few of those with my 1500's on twisties kinda recently LOL

No compound is going to hold well on gravel, sand, sawdust, oil slicks, ice, etc.. or anything else that slides or rolls under your tires, or when bouncing over road kill. If the weather is bad probably no excuse to be riding curves so fast as to need special compounds either LOL

One rider, very experienced I know of wiping out last year was from a front tire slipping out, washing out, in a wet curve. Better rear tire would not have done any better when the front tire was what failed to hold the road in an unexpected wet curve.

When it comes to emergency braking in a panic "NEED TO STOP NOW" situation, the CENTER tread is what counts! That's what your gonna be on when it's time to jamb on the brakes hard as you can just short of going into a skid! That's where they want to put the HARDER compound which has LESS traction!
True, the center tread is where the most normal wear is, but IT IS where you need the most traction also!
If your starting out on wet surface, or need to suddenly speed up drastically fast to avoid getting hit by a cage then the center tread is where your most likely to be riding, the part where they put the least traction!
When that cage pulls out in front of you or a deer jumps out of the woods onto you, braking extremely hard is normally on that center tread, where the least traction is!

As far as hard braking for safety and tire slip in turns, they should be more concerned with the front tire anyway than the rear! Most your braking is on the front tire, it needs the most traction! Most your Really Hard braking will be in an UPRIGHT position so the front tire Center tread really needs the most traction!

In hard curves you can control the traction allot on the rear tire by how you power through a turn. The front tire is ALWAYS just being pushed through the turn, the front tire again needs the most traction!
If a person hammers the throttle in a hard curve and breaks traction that is user error and not tire related! It happens and those people need to learn to ride!

So they want to make a REAR tire with less traction in the center and don't seem to be doing much with the front tire at all EH?? Or the front tire will have less traction in the center also if they make it same way?

Nope, neither is really for me!

I don't claim to be any good at twisties, matter of fact I always say I am not good at them.
I know the facts of how to ride them hard and handle them well, I am just not good at actually doing it, so I ride like a granny in twisties unless I screw up and user error I grind my crash guards LOL
At least my tires held tight even if I did hit the turn 20mph to hard!

I have however at one time been heck on wheels street racing twisties in rear wheel drive cars which is same basic facts other than the lean angle which bikes have but cars don't.
Car and bike facts, you control rear wheel traction in turns with proper use of the throttle!

Wonder why I think multiple compounds are a gimmick?

Maybe for track racing they have a real use.
 
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