14.7 is just a shade high and probably not much to worry about. Permanent magnet alternators are generally known for full output since there is no way to regulate the field current. Nature of the beast. Sounds like you're closing in.The thing I'm not sure is why the battery is charging at 14.7 volts when I had a 13.01 reading on the battery.
Take that stator wire that has the connectors, cut the connectors and splice it too. Be sure your splices are soldered. Hot connector says you have voltage drop across it.
Just make sure the paste you use is for electronic, electrical soldering. It may be hard to find. DO NOT USE plumber paste flux.Totally agree:
any resistance is a source for creating heat.
the Law of Physics at work.
Power ( Watts ) = Current ( times ) Resistance or "Watts of power" in the generic term...
at full output, which a Stator Always is, that connector is having to survive at least 30 amps at higher RPMs, and any resistance will multiply in a hurry as the joint gets hotter. That is evidenced by the burning and melted surfaces.
a good clean soldered splice will remove that resistance, you may need to add in some wire to make the harness long enough. This is because you have to cut the wire back far enough that all of the burned portions are gone. Solder will not adhere to a burned surface.
As Tom suggested, make sure those new surfaces are clean and bright;
Use a soldering paste and a good grade Low Temp Rosin core solder, do NOT use Acid core solder. ( a real no no for wires )
The Reg/Rect ( Regulator/Rectifier ) unit is a Shunt to ground device.
Its' job is to load the Stator down enough to prevent the battery from being over charged...
just adding info for the neophytes searching for help........
Low Temp means ~ 400* melting point....
Normal solders that plumbers use for copper pipes melts at 700* or higher, that will destroy the small gauge wires in the harness.
Apply the solder paste first, it encourages solder to flow better.