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Hi Folks. I have just bought a 77 1000cc. 44k miles, looks great runs good. The PO is a friend that knows a lot about wings of all years. He works on them all the time. He rebuilt or cleaned the carbs and tuned it up fairly well. He helped me do the time belt and I changed the fluids, new plugs etc...
When the bike is cool it runs great but after it warms up / hot ,the idle seems to get a bit higher. at warm start up it takes a few seconds for the idle to be proper, high idle for a few secs.
The fan is on a toggle switch, I turn it on when I am stopped and the temp gauge shows hi-warm. Is this OK ?
If I leave the bike on the side stand the low pipe smokes a bit @ start up.
My friend says this is all pretty normal. IS THIS TRUE? Otherwise the bike seems to run great. My ?? Is this normal ?
My background is 40 years of of riding, I have owned over 150 motorcycles. Most of them Honda and Harley. This is my first gl1000.
I like this bike and want to keep it as my daily rider. I just want to know I am safe and the bike is acting the way it should.
Thank you for any input re. my concerns. THE BIG ? What about this hot idle issue.

Randayn
 

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[align=center]

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[align=center]Welcome aynrand[/align]
 

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aynrand wrote:
I just want to know I am safe and the bike is acting the way it should.
...my suggestion: put the fan back on the bikes fan (temperature) switch. Why risk it?
 

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They'll smoke a little at 1st when parked on the side stand(what I've been told anyway). This is normal. Not sure about your idle issue. Sounds like it could be running rich. Do you need the choke when you 1st start her up? If not, it's definately running rich. It could also be a vacuum leak among other carb issues.
 

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The fan is on a toggle switch, I turn it on when I am stopped and the temp gauge shows hi-warm. Is this OK ?

+1 on putting it back onthe thermo switch. Thereis a cross reference to an automotive one that will work (out of a mid-'90's GEO or something). You'll find it either here,over at NGWClub, or on Randakks site.


If I leave the bike on the side stand the low pipe smokes a bit @ start up.

Not proper but it is common. The bike is old and seals and O-rings have hardened and taken a set. New valve stem seals can usually reduce it to almost nothing. If the bike has sat for a long period of time (before you got it) then sometimes just putting some miles on it can help. Probably once a month mine does it but sometimes it's the left and sometimes it's the right. It's only annoying when my buddies are watching.



I know diddly about stock carbs so I can't help a lot with the high idle. I do have2 questions that might help others figure it out...does the idle slowly fall back to normal or does it stay high? What RPM does it hang at?
 

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Thank you all for the quick response. I will have to research the thermo switch idea. Someone went to the trouble of putting the fan on a toggle but it seems just more for me to pay attention to. Regarding the high idle, it is only for say 30 seconds or so then it returns to normal, but if I rev the motor it is slow to drop idle, takes a few seconds yes but still mot immediate. Is this the nature of the beast 4 carbs and all?? Pardon my stupidity but is the " thermo switch a plug and play thing or is it a big hassle? The low side smoke is on occasion and only if I don't set the stand on a 1x2. I just got back from a ride and yes it will do the ton, very smooth. Just the few niggles I have mentioned. OCD ya know! Thx Randayn
 

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As I recall the thermo switch is mounted on the right side of the thermostat housing. Tough nut to get to. That may be why the PO went with a toggle (or the price - Honda wants $71 for them). The high idle is not normal...you've got a carb problem. It may be something as simple as sticking slides but somebody who knows stock carbs will have to chip in.
 

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I've found no need to run a manually operated switch in any riding condition. The factory switch works just fine. Nothing wrong with the design.

First, get yourself a manual here. Use the drop-down menu. A manual helps tremendously.

Second, test that factory switch. Procedure is pretty simple and self-explanatory in the pic below, or go straight to the manual...

I'm rollin' with the cooling issue first because it's more important to correct than any carb issue.

Lemme know if your switch is in fact bad, ...Ok? PM me if so.
 

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Thanks Capt.Midnight. If it is just as simple as replacing the thermo switch for $70 I will feel much better. When I did the time belt and drained the radiator I have developed a minor coolant leak due to not replacing the O ring at the thermostat cover. I will have to replace the O ring and drain again. At that time I will try to replace and rewire? the thermo switch? Please,is it safe for me to ride the bike and use the toggle fan switch until such time? I am commuting 20 miles each way to work, suburb. Does the fan come on and off constantly or should it only come on at sitting idle in traffic? Can I run the fan constantly without a battery drain while running? I will fix it soon but I still want to ride without worry. Thx Randayn
 

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As long as you're moving, you know going down the road, then air is going through the radiator and the fan will likely not turn on. When I'm rolling down the roadI never notice it turning on. Maybe coming off of a red light or such... red lights, stop-and-go traffic, extended idling, etc. are when you need to either just turn it on or pay attention to it so as to turn it on when needed. Like I said, if the switch is bad then replacing it is just common sense. Once the engine is up to full operating temperature the upper-end of the heat range can happen pretty quick, so just be aware.

The fan only comes on (should only come on) when the coolant reaches 208°-216°F, as in the pic above, and should shut off when in the 199°-207°F range.

No damage should happen if the fan is used when needed. But again, until you either get used to the switch or replace the factory switch, ...be careful. You wouldn't be the first to roast head gaskets because you were into the ride and forgot to look at the temp gauge...
:waving:
 

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Thinking about it.... if it were me in your spot, I'd let it get to normal (full) operating temp (as in warming-up before you head out) then once you're on the road just turn it on 'til you get to where you're going.

Better safe than sorry, right. A bit of extra wear on the battery and fan motor, but safer.
 

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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
As long as you're moving, you know going down the road, then air is going through the radiator and the fan will likely not turn on. When I'm rolling down the roadI never notice it turning on. Maybe coming off of a red light or such... red lights, stop-and-go traffic, extended idling, etc. are when you need to either just turn it on or pay attention to it so as to turn it on when needed. Like I said, if the switch is bad then replacing it is just common sense. Once the engine is up to full operating temperature the upper-end of the heat range can happen pretty quick, so just be aware.

The fan only comes on (should only come on) when the coolant reaches 208°-216°F, as in the pic above, and should shut off when in the 199°-207°F range.

No damage should happen if the fan is used when needed. But again, until you either get used to the switch or replace the factory switch, ...be careful. You wouldn't be the first to roast head gaskets because you were into the ride and forgot to look at the temp gauge...
:waving:
+1 on that. I say that as long as you keep an eye on the temp and turn it on when you are stopped for more than a few seconds or so, you should be fine. The smoke from the exhaust I've heard is common, but not normal although not usually a big deal. Sea Foam is good for cleaning the internal parts of the engine. As far as the idle goes, you are more than likely running rich. I would tackle the cooling problem first followed by the idle problem and that might almost fix your smoke problem.
 

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A little smoke is not too big a deal on these. I have had two (one of them I restored from barn storage for 15 years) and it happened occasionally with both. One had 17k miles on it, the other over 80k. Depending on where the ring gap is on the downhill cylinder, when on the sidestand sometimes a small bit of oil seeps in. Not really an issue at all. If it concerns you though, check your oil level and if safe, you can simply fill it a little less. All the other Wings can do it, too, for the same reason, but current manufacturing is more stringent, designs have altered, etc.
As for the idle, it could also be as simple as sticking cable or linkage- after all the bike is over 30 years old. The Seafoam is a great idea to clean any/some varnish and such that may have gathered in the idle circuits, etc.
 

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Thanks for the advice guys. I will keep a close eye on the temp. and run some seafoam through the carbs. I will also try to post pics. This is a well preserved example of the original style Goldwing. I have wanted one for years and feel lucky to have found one so nice. Thanks again Randayn.
 

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...testing a switch. I use water-wetter vs. anti-freeze. It raises the boiling-point without the caustics.
 

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You have owned over 150 bikes ., Wow !
I would have your po friend retune your carbs. if possible.
I would also return the cooling system to specs. by following the suggestions listed here. You can keep the manual switch as bypassing the factory sensor if you wish.
 
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