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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After having been parked for more than two years I cleaned the carbs on my 1986 GL1200A. Cylinders 2 and 4 are dead. There is spark (weak) and compression and I can drain fuel from the bowls. Fuel does not seem to be getting to the cylinders. Any ideas will be appreciated. JMV
 

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:waving:Greetings from N.Idaho and welcome to the Best Goldwing Forum on the internet. If used, this forum will supply you with great information and hours of simple entertainment.
 

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Welcome to the forum JMV

Cleaning these carbs that have set requires boiling the carbs that have been fully disassembled to clean all the tiny internal ports. There are many posts on cleaning the carbs, use the forum search bar.
How did you clean yours?
 

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First, welcome to the forum.

With just the left side as a problem, it seems like it must be fuel. You say you are getting fuel, but are you getting enough? Try cleaning our the "T" in the line and the hose from the "T" to the left bank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
JMV dead cylinders

Thanks for the responses. I "cleaned" the carbs by following the directions in Clymer's Manual. It advises to clean only the internal jets, needle and seat, etc., and I was hesitant to completely dismantle the carbs. I blew out all of the orifices that I could see as well as the fuel lines. I will search for directions for a complete cleaning.

Does air or vacuum have anything to do with fuel delivery? I have not tested with a vacuum gauge. Does anyone know of a good description of how these carbs work? Thanks,

JMV
 

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Welcome:waving: JMV
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jmv

What does air and/or vacuum have to do with fuel delivery on my 86 GL1200A? Does anyone know of a good description of how these carbs work? Thanks.
 

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From your last post in new members forum
" New member needs help on GL1200 tech problem
After having been parked for more than two years I cleaned the carbs on my 1986 GL1200A. Cylinders 2 and 4 are dead. There is spark (weak) and compression and I can drain fuel from the bowls. Fuel does not seem to be getting to the cylinders. Any ideas will be appreciated. JMV

Default JMV dead cylinders
Thanks for the responses. I "cleaned" the carbs by following the directions in Clymer's Manual. It advises to clean only the internal jets, needle and seat, etc., and I was hesitant to completely dismantle the carbs. I blew out all of the orifices that I could see as well as the fuel lines. I will search for directions for a complete cleaning.

Does air or vacuum have anything to do with fuel delivery? I have not tested with a vacuum gauge. Does anyone know of a good description of how these carbs work? Thanks,

JMV "

Not dismantling the carbs leaves tiny rubber o-rings that if hit with carb cleaner, start falling apart, same with the air cut off valves. Not disassembling you will not get the passages totally clear of gummed gas in the tiny ports that connect each cab to the fuel supply.

Air and vacuum play a big roll in the functioning of the carbs, these and all carbs.
Go to Randakks site for parts and video/instructions of cleaning the carbs
http://www.randakks.com/GL1200 GoldWing Carburetor Repair Manual.htm

More reading on air slides
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/search.php?searchid=7875


FYI

Keep all your post replies/questions on the carb problem here on this post so all can see what has been asked and answers given to help keep confusion low and less cluttering up of the forum. (mark this in your browser favorites for fast find)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cold Start Problem

I boiled the two carbs as suggested and it runs much better after I finally get it started. Very hard to start when cold but starts instantly when warmed up. Choke has no effect either hot or cold and seems to try to start better when cold with little or no throttle.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions and help.
 

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There are two very important steps with these old 1200 carbs. First is the float height that is critical that it be in spec on all 4 carbs. Second is the slow or idle jets. They screw out and the ONLY way I've been able to get them clean is by removing them and boiling them in distilled water for 15 to 20 minutes. Blow them out and make sure you can see light all the way through them. Those holes are tiny and sometimes it takes more than one boiling and shop air pressure to get them clean.

As for the choke, actually called an enrichener, if you just run some Seafoam mixture in the first couple of tanks of fuel they should start loosening up and start to work. I think with that cocktail you will see improvement every time you ride.

Have you addressed the timing belts yet? If of unknown age just replace them. There are plenty of affordable alternatives to the OEM belts sourced at local NAPA or AutoZone etc. Google the crossover part number and armed with the NAPA or Gates number you can get them at a local Auto parts store. Don't dismiss this! If a belt breaks you will destroy the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Belts are OK and are in time. Can coils and/or pulse generators cause cold start problems?
 

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One thing to keep in mind is,, the carbs supply a great amount of air and in turn the air grabs the fuel. the more air you SUCK the faster you go. if you dont have any vacuum at a cylinder you will not have any fuel/air mixture. also compression=vacuum. you could after a long time, lost your cylinder wall compression. try squirting some wd 40 into the affected cylinders,that will seal the rings and give compression. hope this works.
 

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Belts are OK and are in time. Can coils and/or pulse generators cause cold start problems?
Usually the pulse gens cause hot start or even run problems until they fail completely then no start or run.

Cold start problems are an indication of too lean a mixture. Either there is a serious vacuum leak or your enricheners aren't working as they should. Could also be operator error. I've had 3 GL1200's and all of them started best by going to full throttle and don't touch the throttle until it starts.
 

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I've had 3 GL1200's and all of them started best by going to full throttle and don't touch the throttle until it starts.
Don't you mean "by going to full choke...." , John? That's the way mine starts, anyway.
 
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