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Two days ago I found my dream bike. A 1975 GL1000 that was garaged in 1983 with 26k miles. Only a few parts are missing, the left exhaust manifold, exhaust pipes and the gear shift lever. I'm looking forward to tapping into the wealth of knowledge as I get this bike back on the road.
 

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:waving: :waving: :waving: :waving: :waving: :waving: :waving: :waving:

Hello from Virginia,

Welcome Aboard!!!!!


Glad to have you with us!



:waving: :waving: :waving: :waving: :waving: :waving: :waving: :waving:
 

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Hellojeffreysumlinand welcome from Arizona.




[align=left] "Why buy'm if you don't ride'm"[/align]
[align=left]
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Welcome from Michigan. I found my "dream" 1980 GL1100 Standard w/Vetter Pkglast may after being parked for 16 years. My advice - Take your time, troll this forum for tips and ideas, and by all means visit Raandaks website (http://www.randakks.com). He has a sectionabout resurrecting an old wing in the "tech tips" section.

I made the mistake of just filling-her-up and starting-her-up, and riding her home. I was luck to get home (30 miles), ruined the pipes (turned blue since she was running so lean), and it filled the carbs with even more junk. I am lucky I didn't burn valves or worse.

Just like marriage - wake her up slowly, take your time, and pay close attention to the advice of those more experienced.

To make it easy, here is the text from Randaaks site: (courtesy of and many thanks to Randall Washington, Randakks Cycle Shop, http://www.randakks.com)

Hint: You WILL need his carb overhaul kit. Best in the market !!!

Starting a GL1000 after a Long Lay-up

I'm often asked how to go about the process of returning an engine to service after a long lay-up. The starting point would be an engine which hasn't been started in several years. Hopefully, the crankshaft will turn freely without heroic measures. You should always check this before buying an old bike that's been sitting. I "pass" on most opportunities to buy bikes with frozen engines. Bikes with frozen engines usually have a myriad of other problems that make them poor candidates for serious restoration efforts.

Here's the method I use to resurrect GL1000 engines safely. This procedure is very effective in safely cleaning engine internals and removing varnish from the starter clutch rollers.

  1. Verify that the crankshaft will turn with the kickstarter...don't use the starter yet! (just make sure the engine will turn a bit).
  2. Remove dirt and debris from spark plug recesses with compressed air.
  3. Soak the area around the spark plugs with penetrating oil ((like PB Blaster) and leave overnight.
  4. Remove spark plugs (very carefully!).
  5. Squirt about 2 tablespoons of penetrating oil into each cylinder... (this will help free up your rings and lube the cylinder walls).
  6. Replace plugs.
  7. Check fuses, main fuse, battery cables, starter cable and wiring to/from starter relay for integrity.
  8. Install fresh, fully charged battery.
  9. Address coolant status. Drain and re-fill as necessary for initial startup
  10. With kill switch "off," spin the engine on the starter (or kickstarter) for a few seconds...this will distribute the oil in each cylinder.
  11. Let the bike sit overnight.
  12. Drain the old oil.
  13. Replace oil filter and replace oil with the cheapest 30W you can buy.
  14. Clean / replace air filter.
  15. Rectify ALL problems with fuel tank. There should be no rust whatsoever in tank!
  16. Install new fuel filter.
  17. Do whatever carb, ignition work, etc. is required to start the engine and verify that it will run correctly. Now would be a good time to try the "In Situ" carb cleaning method detailed below in the Tech Tips section.
  18. Start the engine, allow the engine to warm up, but DO NOT RIDE!
  19. While the engine is warm, drain the oil.
  20. Replace oil filter (again).
  21. Fill crankcase with a 50/50 mix of cheap 30W and Dextron auto transmission fluid.
  22. Start engine and run for 20 minutes at 3500 - 4000 rpms on the center stand...DO NOT RIDE with this mixture in crankcase...any loading might damage your engine. This will clean your engine internals and free-up rings. Don't be alarmed...your engine may SMOKE quite a bit with this mixture!
  23. While the engine is warm, drain this oil mixture.
  24. Replace oil filter (again).
  25. Refill crankcase with high quality, motorcycle-spec 10W-40 oil.
  26. Address roadworthiness issues like coolant, fork oil, etc.
  27. Address safety issues: brakes, tires, lights, etc.
  28. Road test and evaluate deficiencies. Obviously, do this first ride with GREAT CARE for your own personal safety.
  29. Address deficiencies as required.
  30. Adjust valves.
  31. Re-visit tune-up issues as required for smooth running and full power.
  32. Do a benchmark compression test.
  33. After you put 100+ miles on the bike, do another compression test (the values often rise as the rings free-up).
  34. Change out fluids again at 100 mile mark.
I learned this method from an "old school" mechanic many years ago. This technique has never failed me. You may be tempted to skip a few steps in your rush to "see if it will run." My advice: don't take any shortcuts! Take your time and you'll be rewarded with a sweet running engine.
 

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Welcome from the
Steve Saunder's GOLDWING FORUM



A Big Welcome FromTEXAS
 

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You come to the right place, Welcome from Southern California
 

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Welcome to this Great Site!

Pull up a chair and join on in!

Ride Safe, Ray


:waving:
 

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Welcome to the Forum from the State of Confusion........Kansas! :waving:
 

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jeffreysumlin wrote:
Two days ago I found my dream bike. A 1975 GL1000 that was garaged in 1983 with 26k miles. Only a few parts are missing, the left exhaust manifold, exhaust pipes and the gear shift lever. I'm looking forward to tapping into the wealth of knowledge as I get this bike back on the road.
you might want to PM axelwik . He had a 1000 that he brought back to life. Not for parts, but advice. Great guy, Marco.

Welcome to the forum...
 

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Hi....welcome from the Netherlands!!!:banana:
 
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