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Still trying to figure out fuel problem on my bike and now I have a new problem. Running down the road the volts show about 10 to 10.1. Is it a stator? Could this be a problem with the bike running like fuel system is plugged? It is an 85 Limited
 

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I have the same with my ltd and I am trying to pin point it also. Might be a faulty fuel pump or a pulse generator under the front timing cover. I will let you know what I come with. This a common thing happening on ltd. Just hard to make sure what it is with parts so hard to come by.
Glenn
 

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If you are going by the voltmeter on the dash, ignore it. Mine is way off, and reads low. Check the voltage across the battery terminals with a multimeter, with the engine at about 3000 rpm. If it shows 13.7V-14V, everything is ok.
 

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One of two things. Stator or Voltage Regulator/Rectifier.

Good news - Parts readily available.

Bad news - stator is an engine-out job.
 

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If you're going by the voltmeter on the dash do NOT ignore it!!! As was said, you can verify the meter reading by checking the voltage at the battery which reads about .4-.6vdc higher than the dash voltmeter no matter what rpm's the engine is turning...



Roadkingrich, once you verify that the dash meter is indeed reading correctly, (within .5vdc or so...), yer gonna need to charge the battery and test the stator and inspect the stator and regulator connectors. If you haven't checked those yet you might get lucky and burn't wires might be your only problem!!Here's the stator test I've posted a few times and it must work as no one has thrown any rocks at me yet....:cool:





Stator Test

1- First, put the bike on the centerstand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.

2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for short's. If no short's are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.

3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohm's. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.

4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wire's separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warm's up.

IMPORTANT!!!

You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!

With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.

Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.

Finaly check leg C to A. Note the voltage.

Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70vac plus or minus about 5vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator.





Now then, the good news is I've not seen or heard of no more than about 3 bad stator's on a fuel injected GL1200, (Ltd Ed and '86 Aspy SEi), The better news is that I've got a link to a site that sells the OEM Shindengen regulator/rectifier for the Ltd Ed cuz you really, REALLY, want to stay away from any aftermarket brand!!! Trust me on this!!!:cool:



Let us know what you find and we'll do what we can to help ya!!





Glenn. Are you having charging problems or a fuel problem??
 

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glhonda wrote:
roscoepc wrote:
Here's the stator test I've posted a few times.....
:shock::shock::shock: :ROFL::ROFL::ROFL:
I just KNEW something hit me in the back of the head awhile ago.......:shock::shock::cool:
 

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Correction. I misworded it. Do not ignore it, UNTIL you have confirmed ACTUAL voltage between the battery posts. If the ACTUAL voltage is correct, and the digital contraption reads low, it is wrong. I am going to get a non digital voltmeter, connected directly to the battery, and mounted on/in the fairing. The other one goes in trash. You can't read it in the sun anyway, because of the deteriorated plastic lens. What you need to know is the actual voltage between the battery terminals. Don't wire a voltmeter to just any hot wire you can find. It needs to go directly to the positive terminal on the battery, and it should be fused close to the battery. Check you meter for accuracy. Then you will always know the state of your charging system.
 

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JerryH wrote:
I am going to get a non digital voltmeter, The other one goes in trash. You can't read it in the sun anyway, because of the deteriorated plastic lens.
Send it to me. The lens can be polished, themeter is adjustable, and they're worth fifty bucks on ebay. If you don't want it, ship it here.
 

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JerryH wrote:
If you are going by the voltmeter on the dash, ignore it. Mine is way off, and reads low. Check the voltage across the battery terminals with a multimeter, with the engine at about 3000 rpm. If it shows 13.7V-14V, everything is ok.
I just did that to mind this morning it check out ok. :smiler:
 

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mine reads 13.3, multi tester reads @ 14.5.
 
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