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1st major repair on my 84 Aspencade , unfortunately my stator needs replacement ,I hear a common broken wing problem. Is there a recommended replacement or is the stock one best? And is there any related electrical parts to change at the same proactively ? Wing has 175,000 km.:?
 

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Impersonating a mechanic
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First of all, welcome to the forum. There are some very knowledgeable gurus here -- I'm not one of them -- but the first thing you will be asked is for all the details as to what makes you think you need a new stator, including the results of any tests you have performed, what symptoms the bike displays, any mods that have been done, accessories on the bike, and the mileage on the bike.

You'll get all the help you need on this forum, always expressed with respect, no matter how basic the question. But a little more detail is in order.

Glad to have you with us.
 

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Still Learning
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Yes welcome bro. Have you heard that you can put an automotive alternator on rather than pull the engine out to replace the stator? Much better power and more dependable. It's called a poor boy conversion. Enter that in the search box on the right to read about it. Fits inside the fairing behind the radiator.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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The best bet for longevity is the OEM unit.

Be sure it's the stator. Burnt wiring and connectors can cause the bike to not charge, but if caught in time, won't have destroyed the stator yet.
 

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Yes I would first make sure it is the stator. If it is, you have 2 options. You can either pull the engine and replace the stator, or you can go with the poorboy kit. If you elect to go with a new stator, I recommend either oem Honda, or RicksMotorsports. But, before you make a decision, even after you have confirmed the stator is bad, there are some other things I would check. First, just above where the three yellow stator wires come out of the engine, to the left of the battery, is a white connector where the 3 wires from the stator connect together before going into the wiring harness. If it is all burned and melted, you have more than stator problems. Next, remove the fake tank, and check the white plastic connector that connects the 3 yellow wires, along with some other wires to the regulator. If it is also burned or melted, Then the stator is definitely only part of your problem, and replacing it will not solve the rest of the problem.

My stator is charging fine, but both connectors were badly burned and melted from excess heat. I cut them out and soldered the wires together, but that did not help. The regulator itself is getting super hot, and has already damaged the wires that connect to it several inches away. The yellow stator wires are now brown, and the insulation is very hard when cold, from overheating. I have not yet found a solution to this problem, and nobody on 4 different GW forums has come up with one either.

If you have this problem, I would suggest abandoning the original charging system altogether, and going with the poorboy kit. It will permanently solve all your charging system problems, plus give you a lot more electrical power as well. That is what I currently have in mind, because I can just see my stator or regulator failing far from home. But I have an LTD, which has an extra coolant line right where the poorboy kit bracket goes. I was told there was a way around that, and will be looking for information on it when I decide to do it.
 

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Thanks guys all answers were very helpful and I'm definately going to test all the options b4 changing the stator. If you go the poorboy route does the regulator and wiring actually show, as I want to keep the bike as stock as possible to retain classic plate statis
 

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OOPs! I meant Alternator not regulator.
 

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When I had my 3rd 1200 stator failure, I did the "poorboy", before I even heard of it. I used an alt off GeoMetro 3cy. Forget year, but it was a very small Nippondenso 50 amp job. It's a tight fit on injected 1200, but doable. I ended up removing the orig stator, and it's magnet rotor from the hub it's mounted on, and noticed a quicker reving engine, and definitely less rattling at low rpm. I did that because my starter clutch was continually slipping, so I had to get in there and fix that. Decided to remove the "un-necessary weight", and that was a really good move, I thought. I would do it again, If necessary.

I did that a few years ago, and the current has only had to replace the belt, because he wasn't keeping it adjusted so it started slipping badly at end of adjustment range. He's tickled with bike thus far.

I'm thinking of this bike, but don't really want to be faced with another potential, (almost guaranteed) charging system job. Not to mention other electrics/electronics failing as time goes by. Parts are getting so expensive and hard to come by. I do wish I had kept the spare parts I let go with the LTD.

http://medford.craigslist.org/mcy/2507480746.html
 

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Oh, the stock stator isn't even available, is it? I've read good things about Rick's, tho.
 

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Wow, that's amazing !! That's the route to go, if sticking with stator. Thanks, Dennis.
 

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http://bobsold.goldwingfacts.com/Alternator/alternator.htm

Save yourself a lot of time, headaches, and money. Plus end up with twice the charging power, and no more worries in the future about your charging system again.

There is a reason Honda gave up on the stators and went to external alternators on the six cylinder wings, just like they had a lifetime warranty on the faulty stators on the 1200's (to the original owners).
 
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