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Busdriver
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Just got a killer deal on a brand new pair of Dunlop Elite 3's, 50% off on a rear, and 70% off on a front.

My existing front is an E2 with about 30% left, and rear is an E3 with about 70% left. Should I continue to use up my rear and just replace the front for now, or just do both?
My biggest concern was the mismatched tires (E2 front & E3 rear) which I feel may be contributing to a slow speed wander that I sometimes experience on takeoff.

My own feeling is that I might as well use up the rest of the rear, and just replace the front for now. Don't want to throw away an otherwise good tire until necessary given the cost of replacement. Probably have another season or 2 left on the rear, then I can mount the new one. I don't think storing the new tire for another year would be detrimental.

Your thoughts?
:15red:
 

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Administrator
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I would leave the rear one on, most use up about 2 rears to one front, not me but most riders. Mismatched tires never mattered on anything I ever had, I have a huge mismatch on my 1800 and it's a great combination.
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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... I don't get hung up on brand names from front to rear. You shouldn't either. Run out the tires and change each one when it is due.
 

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Busdriver
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The brands are the same, just different models & tread patterns, and most likely different builds. I read a post that mentioned mismatched tires as a possible source of wobble. Anyway, I saved a bundle of cash and just couldn't resist. Nothing like a new pair of shoes
 

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That's about as ridiculous as saying mismatched socks cause you to walk funny.
 

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Busdriver
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Discussion Starter #6
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Well if that's the case then i guess i can run a slick on the back and a knobby on the front. LOL

I did read that the E3 uses a dual compound rubber, harder down the middle for longer life, and softer rubber on the shoulders for better cornering grip. The E2 does not.

I really want both tires to hold the road equally, especialy in the wet.
 

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The US Gov traffic safety says:

What to Consider Before You Tire-Shop
Make sure you get a matching set of front and rear tires. Unlike car tires, you need to make sure that your motorcycle tires are a �matched� set. At a minimum, they should have complementary tread patterns, should both be either radial or bias ply, and ideally be the same make and model.

from here:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/people/injury/pedbimot/motorcycle/PSIMotorcycle/pages/McycleTireSafTips.htm

I don't have a matched set now, but I think I might when my front wears out.
 

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brianinmaine wrote:
The US Gov traffic safety says:

What to Consider Before You Tire-Shop
Make sure you get a matching set of front and rear tires. Unlike car tires, you need to make sure that your motorcycle tires are a �matched� set. At a minimum, they should have complementary tread patterns, should both be either radial or bias ply, and ideally be the same make and model.

from here:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/people/injury/pedbimot/motorcycle/PSIMotorcycle/pages/McycleTireSafTips.htm

I don't have a matched set now, but I think I might when my front wears out.
And if the guvmint says it it must me true. :cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1:
 

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Premium Member
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Your problem is the E2. Get it off of there, and you'll be fine.

True for my 12 and 15.
 

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Busdriver
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Discussion Starter #10
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Ok, the E2 front tire is gone and replaced with a new E3 to match the rear tire. Result? AMAZING.
Bike no longer weaves and wanders, and when I come to a stop it is smooth and controlled, instead of feeling like I was gonna drop the bike.

I can actually feel when the rubber transitions to the more sticky stuff on the shoulders of the tire when I lean it through a corner. My slow speed control in parking lots etc. is now a joy, instead of a white knuckled affair.

Thanx to all for the input.

PS: Dave, the Dunlop website also cautions against using mismatched tires. It seems that socks and tires really are dissimilar.
 

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I put a pilot gt on the front this spring, have a dunlop 491 on back with plenty of tread left(slight cupping) bike rides just fine, straight or cornering.
 

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Disfunctional Nimatode
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I wouldn't rip-off and throw away a good tire for nuthin'........ just as long as you don't mix radials and bias ply... should not have radials on a 1200 or 1500 anyhow.
 

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Two weeks ago I changed both of my tires on my gl 1200 aspencade I also had mismatched model tires since I bought the bike an elite II on the front and I believe a dunlop cyclemax in the rear. After putting the elite 3's on I couldn't believe it was the same bike huge diffrence corning going over tar snakes and grooves on the highway like they are not there.I havent ridden in the rain yet but from what I have heard they are also great in the rain



P.S. Bought mine from the motorcycle super store 240.00 for both no tax or shipping
 

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Don't pay ANY attention to the tread left... LOOK at the year the tire was produced, and if it's over 2-3 years --REPLACE the rubber, even if it looks brand new.... trust me., I just went through a near incident with a rear, that was flying chunks off a 'Perfectly Good-Tread' tire that only had 4K miles on it, BUT was an 03 produced... the year made is on the tire.... ***Actually just did the rest of the research, it was an 03 tire, mounted on my bike in 05, As of last month the tire only had 7K miles on it, looked perfectly brand new, but self-destructed in a few weeks.... it was properly inflated through the duration of it's life.... Put on new rubber, and be confidently safe, if you are wondering at all..
 

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the e3s made a huge diff on the 1200 no more rain groove or tar snake wobble at all.Felt like a new bike.
 

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Vintage Rider
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My opinion is, first, anyone who would take advice from the govt. has a serious problem, far worse than trying to decide what tires to use. Having said that, I run tires till the wear bars show, then replace them, unless they are damaged to the point where they are not safe. A neat little round puncture in the middle of the tread does not count. That's what tire plugs are made for. Mismatched treads, brands, whatever doesn't matter at all, as long as they are street tires, load and speed rated for your bike, the correct size as stated by the manufacturer (again darksiders excluded) and are either both radial or bias, whichever the manufacture recommends.

I have been faced with the dilemma several times where I had a long distance trip planned, and my tires were still good, but I didn't think they would last the whole trip. I took the partly worn tires off, put new ones on, wore them out, then put the others back on and wore them out. I just won't throw away a tire in good condition with tread left.
 
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