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Hi there, I'm new to the forum and have been digging around a while just reading all sorts of information.

I am having a problem with both my temp and fuel gauges. The temperature gauged worked a while ago, but then I took the bike to a mechanic for a carb overhaul and now it stopped working, just sits on the "cold" side. My fan still works when the engine warms up so I'm not too concerned but it would be nice to have working.

My fuel gauge, I'm not sure that it ever worked. When you turn the key it goes all the way up to full, even when it's not.

I've read on here that a bad 7v regulator can cause the gauges to not work, but it also seems it brings down the neutral light etc which is still working on my bike. As well I would think it would just make the fuel gauge read emtpy...

Any ideas? Thanks!
 

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Yes it could be a bad 7V regulator. It can sometimes have an internal short circuit which can give a 12V output (instead of 7) and that will make the gauges read full all the time. If that's not repaired in short time it will burn the gauges. So you better check it up by measuring the output voltage on the regulator.

P.S. Sorry, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!:waving::waving::waving:
 

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otomoton wrote:
Hi there, I'm new to the forum and have been digging around a while just reading all sorts of information.
Welcome to the Forum from Kansas!!! :waving:

I hope you find the Forum as informative and as much fun as we do!!:cooldevil:

Again, Welcome Aboard!! :action:

 

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Thanks for the welcome! I was hoping it wasn't the regulator, as it is such a pain to get to that part of the bike.
 

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I don't know about 1100s but on GL1000 it's located under the left-hand false tank cover and it's quite easy to approach. Are you sure that it is notat the same place on your bike?Three wires going to it: 12V input(White/Red), 7V output (Green/Black) and ground (Green).Move the connector a bit backwardstoapproach metal but let it still beconnected, turn the ignition onandmeasure the voltage between G/Bk and G and it should read 7V. If not then the regulator is bad. Don't worry, it's a peace of cake to make a new one with a few dollars cost. There was a schematic over here,I can't remember who posted it.I made a new regulator according to itwhich still works, so here itis for case that you need it:
 

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If I recall correctly I *think* that regulator is behind the gauges, which on a bike with a fairing is a pain. I will check once I get the chance though and pray it's in the same place as on the gl1000. I may just go ahead and build that regulator anyway, I think I already have all the parts sitting in my bin at home.

I hope that's all it is, but the fact that the temp gauge never moves when the fuel gauge does makes me wonder.
 

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I was thinking later, still your 7V regulator could be OKbut something else making troubles. If itturns out thata broken wire or something (as Chris said) causes the temp gauge not to work and that theregulator is good then the fuel gauge high reading could be caused by the bad fuel float (resistor) unit. In that case you could try to disconnect the two contacts which go to the fuel gauge unit and determine which one is "+" (the one that becomes "hot" when you turn the ignition on). So get the other one (-) wire and measure the resistance between it and the grounding (make sure not to touch the grounding with it while measuring). As for GL1000 it should read 10-15 Ohms when the fuel tank is full and 65-75 Ohms when it is empty (and of course thecertainmidvalues when the fuel level is somewherein the middle). I think (butnot for sure) that GL1100 havesimilar values.If you get the low Ohm readings all the time (about 15 Ohms or evenless)then the problem about fuel gauge reading too highis eitherin the float sender (resistor)or there is a short circuit between the gauge "-" wire and the grounding. But then again I would first of allmeasure the output on the 7V regulator.

But those are just my thoughts! Good luck, Alex
 
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