New to me GL1200 clutch questions.

Yep, it's toast. Refresh the whole system once right and you won't have to think about it for quite awhile.

:smallpopcorn:

The diaphragm opens like a bellows to follow the fluid as it leaks out and usually can be manipulated back to it's original shape.
If it's truly fubared a new one is only about $15.00 at your local dealer.

And yes it can be a PITA to get the cap on over the diaphragm.

So the fact that the top of the gasket is bigger than the master is okay? I squished it all back in and got the plastic cover and cap back on. If the gasket is good I will bleed it and go. I seem to remember the brake gasket on my old CB550 was a similar setup.

:?Where did the clutch brake fluid (DOT 4) go?:?

Most of the time that diaphragm just needs pressed back into shape like Ken said. I'd run a lot of brake fluid through the system if the diaphragm truly is misshapen due to contact with some caustic chemical.

Stay said:

So the fact that the top of the gasket is bigger than the master is okay?

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Nope, the diaphragm should fit into the recess on the top of the reservoir. Once the plastic plate and cap are on you should not see it.

The Master was not empty at all. Still had fluid about a 1/4 inch up. When I squeezed the lever a could see a pulse of fluid from the smaller hole. The gent I bought it from said he pulled the lever and had tension and it just slowly "leaked down" and then no clutch reponse.

I got it all inside and can't see anything after the platic cap and metal cap are screwed in place. Screws went in no problem and no binding. Should be good?

Well the cap goes on which is good but now you have to finger out why it leaks down.
It could be a leaking slave cylinder or a leaking master cylinder.

One place to check for a leak is the sight glass in the master cylinder. Mine had a lot of hairline cracks in it to begin with. It looked like a smashed car windshield, and it leaked. Then the plastic (despite being called a site GLASS, it is actually plastic) just crumbled altogether and fell out.

Got it fixed? One of my coworkers picked up my diaphragm for me since the closest dealer is a hundred klicks away. Got my plate and insurance tonight and started in. I did the turn the bars and flip the lever. This seemed to work a bit. I broke the banjo loose and did the same thing and I cold see air percolating by. Tightened the banjo and automatically got lever. Pressed it a few more times while the bubbles poured out. Waited for no bubbles and now I got a clutch. I will do a flush later, I just wanted to get it fixed. Took it out for a ride about town and what a nice feeling that is. Thanks for the help.

Enjoy riding...

JeffMayfield said:

:?Where did the clutch brake fluid (DOT 4) go?:?

Most of the time that diaphragm just needs pressed back into shape like Ken said. I'd run a lot of brake fluid through the system if the diaphragm truly is misshapen due to contact with some caustic chemical.

Click to expand...

my 1200 has dot 3 only stamped on the lid, would it be better to use a dot 4 fluid

jon jay said:

my 1200 has dot 3 only stamped on the lid, would it be better to use a dot 4 fluid

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Now there's a mystery.
Just use the synthetic. It's compatible with both and easier on paint.

jon jay said:

my 1200 has dot 3 only stamped on the lid, would it be better to use a dot 4 fluid

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My 87 GL1200 says DOT 4. Maybe PO put a different lid on? I ended up not only flushing the system but rebuilt MC & SC. Pay attention to the smaller hole that has the metal shield thing stuck on top. Mine was plugged solid with some kind of aluminium corrosion and had to be cleaned out (I used welding tip cleaner wires). Otherwise, the fluid won't return to MC and eventually into the ride the clutch has built up pressure (you will have zero play at the lever when there should be a little) and the clutch will slip, badly. I have been through the clutch hydraulics from one end to another, brakes too.