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Hello all. I'm a newbie and finally got a wing.I scanned through the post and wasn't sure if my problem is linked with other issues posted. I'm a new winger with zero experience and expertise. Bike will not start without jump and typically sounds like weak or bad battery. Seems to be worse after engine has warmed. Bike will jump start with no problems (I carry a portable battery starter in my saddlebag to start) and starter turns and starts fine. With jump, there is no drag or hesitation with starter, but from reading posts I see a possible starting/chargingmaintenance/repair in my future. Performed leakage test IAW manual by disconnecting NEG battery lead and taking voltage reading across disconnected battery NEG lead and NEG battery post. I read the 12.47 volts which is the same as what I read across the POS and NEG post of the battery when disconnected. Have been told I need to check amperage draw also and someone mentioned possible problem with the clock, because it is powered with ignition off. Does this mean I have a short somewhere in the system on circuits that power with ignition off? I still have the much discussed plug with three yellow wires for the stator and the dog bone type fuse (All factory connections with no mods that I can tell). I have purchased a new battery, but want to make sure I should actually get "0" volt reading on leakage test, or I will simply drain the new battery. Hope I don't sound too stupid, but please help. You guys are "THE SOURCE" for everything Goldwing and I send tons of respect.
 

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your problem is common, as the problem lies with the wiring of the connetions to and from the stator, also the main fuse need to be replaced with a 30 amp car type fuse.

So, if and when you get the bike running, touch and feel the wires that are located near the battery, any wires that feel hot needs to be rewired.
 

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also when replacing the dog-bone fuse with a plug-in type 30 amp car fuse, be sure to crimp the plugs themselves, the plug itself will still produce heat if it is not crimped.
 

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i had problems to. i took mine to a honda dealer to have it fixed. they have put 3 stator and 3 volt reg in. still they can't find out why when it gets warm the volts drop. it even died while doing 70 mph down the highway. the volts droped out and need to be jump started. even then it would not run. why? any one help i want to ride.
 

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Thanks for response. The bike starts up and runs fine. I just have to jump start. Sometimes will start cold, but will never start without jump after engine has warmed. I will start up and check for heat at wiring and put inline fuse and solder stator wires. Seems that is the recommendation of choice from everyone. Thanks, will post results after completion.
 

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BE sure to rewire with 10 guage wire, when I tried 12 guage, the wires still became warm.
I know that many said to soldier, but I used a crimp waterproof crimp type and it seems to work just fine.
 

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i would check all the terminal around your battery, starter motor and solenoid, check out the connecter on top of the solenoid it to is a weak spot for frying the connecter, also try jumping it at the starter motor itself, connect the -vebooster to the frameand the + to the starter post and see how that goes,
 

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If you have to boost the battery every time and the bike runs fine after then I would either test the old battery or put in the new one. If the bike starts, test the charging system. Let us know your results.
 

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As AVA mentioned, it's best to start trouble-shooting with a known-to be good fully charged battery. You might even concider have the battery "Load-Tested" at one of your local auto-parts outlet stores. But have the battery fluid topped-up and fully charged before you go...



Also, a very hearty welcome to the friendliest Wing forum on the web. And thank-you for your service to our country... :gunhead:
 

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Navymaster wrote:
I have purchased a new battery, but want to make sure I should actually get "0" volt reading on leakage test, or I will simply drain the new battery. Hope I don't sound too stupid, but please help.
Navymaster,

Check out this link:

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=60544&forum_id=1&jump_to=616087#p616087

and then this one:

http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=3934

You should find some useful info about your question.
 

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sounds like your battery is marginal and that your starter is
part of the problem too,try taking the headlight fuse out of circuit,two fuse frm left,check battery voltage,good battery is 12.64, crank for ten seconds,wait 1 minute and recheck battey voltage,if it stays down quite a bit the battery most likely needs changing,two years id about the limit on a lead acid, check your charging voltage at 3000,should be about 14.2-14.6,then let it sit overnight and check again,should be in that 12.6 range,but it also sounds like your starter and maybe even the reg/stator may be a problem too any other questions PM me a #
 

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Navymaster, welcom to the site, hope you get your girl fixed and ready for riding season, PM me sometime and lets get togehter for a ride.

Ritchie & Lyn:waving:
 

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Thanks folks. I have new battery fully charged and ready to go. I plan to install tomorrow and perform voltage chacks for charging system. Thanks for the call out Shooter. 28 years in Navy with 2 to go. We all love our countries and God bless. Will post results.
 

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Welcome Navymaster, I'm guessing Master Chief? Retired AT1 here. Retired in 05 and am loving it.



Sounds like you're having some of the same issues I've been having.



You said you were connecting your meter in series when you said you connected one end to the negative cable and one end to the negative post. Then you would measure again across the battery paralell (negative post to positive post).



When you measure voltage you do it in paralell and when you measure current you do it in series. What this means is you can take your meter and put it in current mode and measure the current drain from the negative cable to the negative terminal on the battery. You have to do this with the bike key turned OFF. This will tell you if something is draining your battery while the ignition is off. I would recommend starting on the highest range of your meter at first and then moving down towards the lower current ranges until you get a reading. When you measure volts that way the meter is just seen as another load and completes the circuit and will read what the battery is. I hope this makes some sense.



Maybe this pic will help. Sorry about the quality but all I have is MS paint.



 

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Put new battery in. Measured amperage across NEG battery cable and NEG battery post and reading less than .02 milliamps. Just the clock and no probs. Voltage read with key on 12.78. Drops to 9.95 to 10.4 when starter engages. Reads 14.47 at idle and 15.06 at 3000 rpm. Took spin (in rain) to warm her up and she starts just fine. I think I.m fixed and just a bad battery. I'll give her a few days and if problem stays fixed I plan to change the stator connection and put inline fuse in place of dog bone. Also go to maint. free battery or gel cell. Thanks everyone. right on the mark.
 
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