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Hi again,

Just got my first Wing this week and thanks to everyone here, I was able to get my electrical / no power problem solved.

Here's another one:

I changed plugs (used stock NGKs). Gapped correctly. Changed oil (old oil was very dark), changed filter (but didn't see the filter spring in my oil drain pan until I had new oil in - so the spring is not installed) and I checked and cleaned the points (they looked OK -- I lighly filed and used contact cleaner to clean them up). I also filled the tank (it was less than half full from PO and I added a single packet of Stabil).

Prior to this I noticed some "sputtering" in lower gears at half throttle and today, I noticed fuel level was half full after approx. 30-40 miles of riding.

At higher throttle, there is no sputter. I had the bike up to 75mph today and she ran smoothly.

Any advice on what I should go after to cure the sputtering / MPG issue?
 

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One thing I know I did incorrectly is that I read an article stating I should ride at half choke for a few miles until the engine reaches operating temp/ warms up. The last two times when I rode the bike (after I nearly filled the tank -- I didn't want to fill to the neck / spill gas), I forgot to close the choke.

I think I'll grab a fuel filter first and figure out how to drain the carb bowls. Maybe I have a stuck float?
 

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I'd try seafoam over stabil for cleaning the carbs while running. 1/2 can to a full tank of gas, do it twice and then see how it runs. And get that filter spring back in, you'll only lose about 1/2 quart to do it.
 

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Ditto on filter spring. Definatly use seafoam, stuff is a must to start the problem solving process. The seafoam will probably fix the sputtering for the most part but if not you might need a good carb clean or adjustment. You should also be aware there is a flat spot in the acceleration on the 1500's that is common and I feel it in take off and at low speed. There are some mods to try and fix it but if you will up your RPM's before leaving the line it will help. Practice and before long it will be second nature and smooth starts. The lurch you get after coasting is par. Hope this helps.
 

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Thanks Gents,

I was doing a little reading on Seafoam. Should I use 1oz. per gallon of gas?
 

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cqlink, when dug my 78 out of the barn she was in i used the whole can to a full tank and have done 3or4 time more,i do not know if it will OD one the stuff, but she came to life.
 

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You should also have a look at your air filter, Cant breath with a plugged nose!! Go with Bagmasters advise & slam it with a half can of sea foam. Take it out for a long run & burn a tank or 2 out of it. It should come back to normal.
 

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Thanks. I know the bike was sitting for some time. Maybe a year or more. I'll add the Seafoam today.

The PO had a K&N air filter in it which I didn't like, but it was relatively clean. I picked up a K&N cleaning kit and cleaned it up as well. I'm sure the air filter is OK.
 

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there are screws on the bowls to drain them. you might want to check ur timing as well as what the gap between the points is and I know any leaks in the exhaust will make it run kinda crappy too.
 

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A couple of weeks ago I dumped a full can of seafoam in the tank with non-ethanol gas, yea, the good stuff. Rode it like a stole it. Well on a trip down to Augusta Ga the other day I averaged 41 mpg instead of the 37-38 I was down to and that was at an average speed of 65 mph.
 

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OK...It took me some time (not a lot of riding days left around Detroit these days) but I added a complete can of Seafoam and ran it down to 1/4 tank. Filled the tank again and ran it down to just under 1/2. Still sputters. MPG is approx. 20-25mpg.

Yesterday, I noticed it sputtering a bit at idle. Fuel filter LOOKS new but I know that may not mean much. I pulled the plugs after a 70-mile ride and I noticed carbon build-up on the first thread closest to the electrode.

As mentioned earlier, the only maint. I've pulled so far is new plugs, oil, oil filter, inspected and cleaned points and corrected an electrical problem I had. Today I am checking the gap on the points.

Yesterday, as I was nearing the end of my 70-mile ride. I stopped into a store and when I tried to restart the bike, it would barely crank. I had just replaced the battery so I tried restarting a a few times. On the third or fourth try, again, it would barely crank but it turned over with one of the loudest backfires I've heard and started. I managed to get the bike home where I checked the plugs and drained a bit of oil (it was slightly over-filled).

I'm going to crack the manual today, however, any insight you guys can provide is always welcome.
 

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I'm going to go with float levels along with the needles and seats. You can either keep riding and trying the Seafoam or pull the carb rack and give them a good cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
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Is the procedure for pulling the rack / adjusting float levels in the manual?

Would adding another can of Seaform hurt anything?
 

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if you pull the rack to check the floats i would suggest at a minimum is to take off the caps and clean the pistons and caps. Does it return to idle quickly. Once you get them that far it is really best to go completely thru them. JB
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Forgot to mention. Idle is high. I can't get it to 950-1000 without stalling.
 

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Your idle circut is most likely plugged. Save your sea foam for after the re build or cleaning! Your idle or slow speed circut's are so small that you clean them by running a wire through them!
Adjusting float levels should be in the manual or buy the C.D. from "Randakk" which goes through the whole process in detail!cqlink wrote:
Forgot to mention. Idle is high. I can't get it to 950-1000 without stalling.
 

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just my experience with the 1000 carbs if they have been sitting for a long time is they will run ok at high speed but not down low is that at least one of thepistons and caps is varnished up. They will go up but not return to the bottom all the way or very slowly and that will cause a high idle setting and a rich condition at idle or a very slow return to idle. Once you rev them up and the excess fuel burns off its ok. The caps and pistons got to be super clean and smooth and are just as important as the float setting. JB
 

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The procedure is in the manual for removing the rack. I also suggest you sign up at naked goldwings. There are a couple of good threads in the how to part with picures. Also read up on Randakks site.
Do it right, clean and clean again, measure and measure again, otherwise you'll get good at rack removal. It does get easier the more you do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
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Thanks gents...I think I'll grab Randakks CD, do some reading and start cleaning. Forecast is high 50s-low 60s which is great for Detroit this time of year.
 

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The video is a great tool when it comes to the 1000 carbs. Good Luck .JB
 
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