[b.pete]

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I just bought a 78 GL1000, it was cheap and in need of some work. I've got some minor electrical problems if anyone knows of a place to get schcematics but my question here is about the rough idle and hard starting.

I'm not new to carb'd engines but this is a bit different then a car. The previous owner said he had just "rebuilt and balanced" the carbs which means he messed around with them until he could get it to idle on it's own. It starts very hard. It will stall the starter sometimes then catch and try to fire. When it does this it cranks really easily. Once I do get it started it willnot run on it's own with out alot of choke (it was 110 here today) and thenit pops out the exhaust. Inspecting the plugs I find #1 and #2 black with carbon (not burnt oil) and #3 and #4are dark brown. I know nothing about these carbs but did manage to find the idle mixture screws which were out 3 turns. This seemed excessive so I set them all at 1 1/2 and it idled a bit better, or at least on it's own. Using starting fluid I have found vacuum leaks on #3 and #4 carbs so I think the idle was set too rich to compensate for the leak. But these leaks appear to be at the air box so I'm not sue if my thinking is flawed.

My question is: Do the condition of the plugs point to carbs being out of sync or should I be looking at the carbs individually for stuck floats etc. I've got a Haynes repair manual coming but if there are any sites with good info I'd appreciate the links.

Thanks

Brian

 

[exavid]

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:waving::waving:Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site on the Internet, Brian!:waving::waving:

The Haynes book is pretty good, I like the Clymer book, it has better pictures and more detail. You can get the Honda manuals from Helm Inc. You won't be able to sync or balance the carbs until the vacuum leaks are fixed, float levels checked, and probably disassembled and cleaned. Go to Randakks site for lots of detailed information on GL1000 carbs.

Helm is located here:

http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?Style=&mscsid=0RRMRBRUF4DG8MVA2VDK9UP4ATMX5HF0

Randakk is here:

http://www.randakks.com/TechTips.htm

 

[aspencade85]

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Welcome from one newbie to another.:waving:

 

[AZWinger]

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Welcome to the forum b.pete! :waving:

You said, "It starts very hard. It will stall the starter sometimes then catch and try to fire. When it does this it cranks really easily." This sounds like it might be the vacuum advance not working. When you get your battery charged up, try turning the kill switch to the"OFF" position, then hit the starter. If it cranks over easily then it's a good chance the vacuum advance is not working. Turn the kill switch back to "RUN" while cranking and see if it starts.

I really don't knowmuch about your bike (I have an 83 1100 Aspencade) but there are quite a few members of this forum who do. Hang in there and I'm sure someone will be along who can help you out!

By the way, I'm just down the highway in Yuma. 110 doesn't sound too bad!

Bob :11grey:

 

[b.pete]

imported post

I'll try that in the AM. I got the battery charged but I'm having a problem with the solinoid (see other post). Seems like with a fully charged battery it cranksbetter but I'll know for sure in the AM.

So it should NOT crank easily with the kill switch off? I take it the vacuum advance advances the timing with low vacuum. ie high vacuum at idle = base timing and low vacuum at WOT = advanced. Does cranking with the kill switch off just keep it from trying to start and thus buidling vacuum? I know too much advance will cause hard cranking.

Boy it's tough working on these things. It seems as though you have to disassemble half the bike to get at anything. :X

Yuma seems always to be hotter than here I can't imagine it being worse but I guess like anything you get used to it. Nice to know there are fellow arizonans here.:waving:

 

[AZWinger]

imported post

b.pete,

It should crank easier with the kill switch off. With the switch off it keeps the bike from trying to fire at the wrong time (when the timing is full advance), if the advance isn't working. Once it's spinning over quickly turn the switch to run. This should help get past thathard spot.

The problem could just be a bad vacuum hose.

You are right about having to disassemble half the bike to get to anything! Small hands, lots of patience and a good cuss word vocabulary help! lol

I have seen posts from two or threemembers in the Phoenix Mesa area and one in Tucson I think.

Bob :11grey:

 

[b.pete]

imported post

Ok I don't know what I was thinking 11:30 is past my bedtime). The kill switch will kill the spark so advance has nothing to do with it.

I'm thinking the problem was low battery voltage but I'll know for sure in a littel bit. Gotta go put some clothes on and get out in hte garage before it gets to 120 in there.:shock:

 

[b.pete]

imported post

Well the solenoid is still shot. I think the contacts melted and sank into the cap. The hard cranking was two fold. Low battery and fuel loading. I went out and gave it full choke, one squirt of gas, and held the start button down while I cranked it. She fired and came to lifein time for me to grab the throttle and keep her running. The baffles are gone from the exhaust and it is only 10:00 am so I didn't want to run it that long.

I had too much choke and it loaded up. Push the choke off and ran it up to 4K toclear it out. It took a while (30 seconds maybe more) then I had throttle response. As soon as I took it back to idle it loaded up again. I'm thinking the carb is junked up. Just from reading info from here I know that we have jets, metering rods, and air bleeds. Any of those parts sticking will give me problems. The bike has had 4000 miles on it in the last 2 years according to the title and there is only 39K on the clock.

I need a new solenoid and I'm almost out of gas. I'm going to look for a Honda dealer here and see about the solenoid, I'll also check the wreckers, but I should be able to get the Carb cleaner and follow the directions on http://www.randakks.com/TechTips.htm to clean the carbs. The book will be here midweek so I get get a lot of my questions answered about the ignition system and carbs.

Thanks for the help and I'll post back what happens.

 

[twisty]

imported post

b.pete wrote:

I just bought a 78 GL1000, it was cheap and in need of some work. I've got some minor electrical problems if anyone knows of a place to get schcematics but my question here is about the rough idle and hard starting.

I'm not new to carb'd engines but this is a bit different then a car. The previous owner said he had just "rebuilt and balanced" the carbs which means he messed around with them until he could get it to idle on it's own. It starts very hard. It will stall the starter sometimes then catch and try to fire. When it does this it cranks really easily. Once I do get it started it willnot run on it's own with out alot of choke (it was 110 here today) and thenit pops out the exhaust. Inspecting the plugs I find #1 and #2 black with carbon (not burnt oil) and #3 and #4are dark brown. I know nothing about these carbs but did manage to find the idle mixture screws which were out 3 turns. This seemed excessive so I set them all at 1 1/2 and it idled a bit better, or at least on it's own. Using starting fluid I have found vacuum leaks on #3 and #4 carbs so I think the idle was set too rich to compensate for the leak. But these leaks appear to be at the air box so I'm not sue if my thinking is flawed.

My question is: Do the condition of the plugs point to carbs being out of sync or should I be looking at the carbs individually for stuck floats etc. I've got a Haynes repair manual coming but if there are any sites with good info I'd appreciate the links.

Thanks

Brian

Brian, those dark plugs & thefact you needed to turn the pilot jet needles in farther to even get an idle point more towards a failing air cut-off system in the rich cylinder carbs. Mis-adjusted float levels, heavy floats,or varnish plugged carb air bleeds are another place to look.

You should probably pull the carbs & COMPLETELY clean all the internal passages, then verify air cut-off operation & float levels. Those old carbs could also have floats that are getting fuel logged so check that also. Once all is good withthe carbs do an idle drop pilot jet adjustment & balance the carbs.

You really need to get the carbs in good order before you can tell if you have other problems.

Twisty

 

[rOmiLaYu]

imported post

b.pete wrote:

I need a new solenoid and I'm almost out of gas.  I'm going to look for a Honda dealer here and see about the solenoid, I'll also check the wreckers,

I'd check eBay before I went to a dealer or a junkyard..there's a guy out there how sells new solenoids for GL1000's for $40...just search for gl1000 solenoid. Good luck! I'm working on a '76 myself.

 

[b.pete]

imported post

twisty,
so do you think it is a waste of time to try and flush the carbs?

Brian

 

[b.pete]

imported post

Dang this forum is busy. No posts in about 24 hours and I'm kicked to the second page.

Since the advise I have is to rebuild the carbs, I'm wondering is there any difference in carb kits. For cars if you've got a Holley you want to buy thier kit as others are of poor quality. I was looking at a couple of sites and they list what look like complete kits and just float bowl kits. There are Honda brand and K&L was another brand I saw.

The Honda complete kits were 32.00 each which does not seem bad. The K&L kits were 24 but is saving 6 bucks a carb worth it. If the kits are the same quality then yes but if not then no. So that's the question, Genuine Honda or aftermarket kits? adn is 32.00 expensive?

 

[ofuami]

imported post

its been afew months....where are you are onthis carb project?

i have had my carbs rebuilt and now wish i woulda looked at putting a set of 1100 models carbs in my 78.

once i got mine rebuilt and rejetted just for GPs (general principle) the bike needed to be run faithfully. no doubt there's gonna be querks to sort out and unless you really got a clunker....which i doubt. its just gonna take time to chase them down and then you'll be sitting pretty.

me i got things an things to sort out but atleast i can run now till "the" parts in come in and or i keep on bringing the things still to be done to attention.

i bought another 78 for a running parts machine to be sold with this one when i'm ready to move up , i really think its the way to go when the\machines start to get at the 25+ year age. i hate losing sleep buying or selling stuff and thinking i got or gavea raw deal.

i'm totally thank ful to be connected to a site such as this.

i know my mechanic appreciates

my new found knowledge when i talk at him now after reading the awsome facts contained here.

ok best of luck. toneZ

 

[stretrod48]

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Welcome on board!!!!!!:waving::waving::waving::waving::waving::waving:

 

[ofuami]

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thank you so much:waving::1000darkblue:hey these things is fast !!

 

[b.pete]

imported post

I've got it running well now. I need to rejet with the pipes I have on it now but I'[m waiting to see how it acts when I put the sporster mufflers on it.

Most all my troubles, after the carb rebuild, was ignition.

I'm really happy overall with the performance. It has sat for as long as 3 weeks and fired on the first go. Try that Harley riders lol