Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Newbie Timing Belt Question

1195 Views 22 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  terry_208
imported post

I have an 84 Goldwing Standard I've owned for about 6 months/1500 miles. I have a small radiator leak in the basin of the radiator. I decided since I have to pull the radiator anyway to get at the leak that I should go ahead and change the timing belts, as per all the advice on Goldwing forums. I am using this page on forums as my guide

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=17422&forum_id=9&highlight=Timing+Belt+Napa+part+number

The thread is for a 77 GL 1000. So my questions are these: What are the differences between the 77 and 84 goldwing that pertain to the timing belt job. Do I need a different size wrench than a 12mm spammer for turning the engine? The "T1" Mark--Is that the very first mark in the middle? Or is it the ones on the outside(of the three sets in the picture, it's hard to tell.)

The rest of the picture tutorial seems very straightforward, except for maybe setting the tension roller on the right side of the engine. That's slightly confusing. And then at the end it mentions checking valve clearance and readjusting ignition timing. Do I need a timing gun for this? I don't know how to do either of those last two things.

I realize how newbie these questions are. I'm obviously not a mechanic. But I'm not afraid of the work and can follow directions. I realize, also, that this is a "pass/fail" job. As in, get it wrong, no more engine. But I am in kind of a bind. Just got some potentially bad family news and need to get home, and home safely. And the shop wants to charge 250ish to do the belts for me. Not sure I have the money. Thanks for any information.
See less See more
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
imported post

the chanfge of the belts is essentially the same 1000-1200.... just take your time and do it right....

the cams will want to shify once you take the belt off... just turn them back to the markings when putting the new belts on

I always pull the covers, use the stator bolt (plugs out) to turn the engine until both pullys line up to the up marks and it is on t1.....

from there a peice of cake

your bike does not have points, no need to check the timing..

your valves are different ignore that as well
See less See more
imported post

The method is the same, but the belts are different between the 1000 and 1200 The correct Gates belt number for the GL1200 is T070..
imported post

I bought 250070 from Napa. Does that sound right?
imported post

That's the one...

Just did my '85 two weeks ago.. also, to hold thatleft (when looking at it from the front)cam wheelwhere it belongs when putting on the new belts use this tool



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/40561.html
imported post

That tool looks like a good idea. The zip tie on the wrench also looks smart.

I'm still unsure about which mark is T1. There seem to be three sets of marks. Two at the edges and on set in the middle. Is it the horizontal mark in the middle that I need to line up?
imported post

If your bike is currently running fine, the timing is set right.

The mark on the case is the one in the middle of the hole .



What I would dois rotate the crank bolt until both cam wheels "up" markings are vertical and then take a look at where the timing mark is. If everything is right, the T1 should be at the middle mark on the engine case. Maybe you can get a betterview with your standard, but my Apsy forces me to look at it from an angle. So, I take that into consideration as I change the belts and make sure use that reference point for T1.
imported post

Okay, good to know. And I rotate the crank bolt clockwise to get the cam wheels to the up position, correct?

Thanks for baby stepping me through this, gentlemen. Also, in setting the tension on the right cam wheel, the one that's under load, I need to rotate the engine a full 360 degrees(clockwise at the crank again?)? Foggy on this, obviously.
imported post

http://goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/17422.html make sure you read completely, as i recall rotate crank 360 make sure you tighten left from seat and put a little tension on right so belt doesn't slip, don't ask how i know, after done important rotae by hand several make sure no hits and marks again line up:action::waving:
imported post

I can't seem to follow that link, plainmech.
imported post

1984GL1200TX wrote:
Okay, good to know. And I rotate the crank bolt clockwise to get the cam wheels to the up position, correct?

Thanks for baby stepping me through this, gentlemen. Also, in setting the tension on the right cam wheel, the one that's under load, I need to rotate the engine a full 360 degrees(clockwise at the crank again?)? Foggy on this, obviously.
yes on both points, rotate the crank bolt clockwise. To set the tensioners, looking at the assembly from the front, you set the right cam pulley tension with the "up" marks at vertical and set the left cam pulley tension with the up marks pointed straight down.



Also after you put the new belts on and line it up, rotate the crank bolt through at least 4 revolutions (with the plugs out of course) to check for interference.
imported post

Hi.
imported post

1984GL1200TX wrote:
I can't seem to follow that link, plainmech.
hmm i can't either go to reference and faq scroll down to timing belt change:action:
imported post

Ok--got everything apart, had a slight hiccup. I pulled this wire out of its home when I was removing the radiator. I have hooked it back up. However, I have no idea what it is. And in case I didn't do a good job with the connection, can anyone tell me what this does and what I might need to watch/listen/feel for when I start the bike up again to know that it's working?

Also, the timing belts that were on it were Unitta Super Power Grip 88AZ19. Are these the original belts? Does anyone know? Thanks for your time, again.

Attachments

See less See more
imported post

not sure maybe op if you crimped well pull on wire make sure it's tight sure it will be fine:action::waving:
imported post

What is op? Also, can somebody explain to me why the timing cover gaskets are so much bigger than the timing covers. I feel like I have two or three inches of slack on each one.
imported post

sorry op= oil pressure not sure if thats what we're lookimg at just a guess. the gaskets are just s dust shield most don't even change em. keep in touch lots of people here for you , sooner or later:cheeky1::action::waving:
imported post

damn just realized your almost next door in a tx kinda way if you would have caught when my bike wasn't broke i'd come and help you but it is and i can't but keep me in mind:):waving: wifes got family there
imported post

Thanks plainmech! Yeah it's funny I actually moved here from Waco. Really next door in a Texas way. I appreciate the offer. Better watch out, I may just take you up on it!
imported post

better watch it i might show up:cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1:, katy bar the doors hide the women chase off the kids:cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1:. no prob. willing to help if i can:waving:
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top