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Randakk lists NGK (resistor) spark plug caps -- says they work on 80 & 81 GL1100, but not on 82 and up GL1100. Sabre Cycle sells what appears to be the same NGK spark plug cap, and says it works on the GL1000, GL1100, and GL1200. So -- who is right? Will bad things happen if these are used on my GL1100? I plan on using these resistor caps with solid (copper) core wire and non-resister plugs...
 

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Are ya crazy? Saber is never, ever wrong! Millions of satisfied customers! You are banned from our store! Please go away now!

(what to expect if you ask them.....)

But Honda's fiche shows different part numbers for the '81 and the '83. Don't know what the difference is, but maybe someone will chime in here. I do know the coils are different between the 2 models, and I'm sure that has a bearing, as well as the gap of the plugs is different.

Could be one has the 5K resistor in the end, and the other doesn't. I do believe you can unscrew the end of the cap and remove the resistor, replacing it with a thick copper conductor to take it's place.
 

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I am familiar with Sabre's reputation... that's why I buy my parts from Randaak... I would like to replace the original 30-year-old wires & caps... just looking for some advice on what works and won't kill my coils...
 

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Well, copper core plug wire from the auto store is a start. Must get 7mm if you want them to fit right.

I just used the standard NGK plugs that everyone sells, and they worked fine for me. My factory original plug caps measured around 5K ohms, and so did the replacement NGK's. So I figured there was not a difference to be me.

Try yours and see what resistance you measure.
 

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I hate to say this but unless Honda changed the diameter of the plug wires Sabre Cycle is correct. All the fours use the same angle cap with the 5K ohm resistor.
 

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...up to '81 - non-resistor plugs.

'82 - '83 uses resistor plugs.

Running resistor caps with resistor plugs must behis point.. Doubling the resistence. NGK resistor plugs are 5Kohm.

Caps currently $2.99 each at many places on the net, including Amazon.

60% cheaper?

Anyway, disassemble the caps and clean 'em. I see them as serviceable. Ohm the resistors. Might just need a cleaning.
 

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So if you buy the resistor caps, just unscrew the plug, remove the resistor, take a piece of thick solid conductor copper the same diameter and length of the resistor, and reinstall the slug into the cap. Turn the plug cap into a non-resistor.

But all the caps I have tested had the resistor in them from the factory. Hmmmmm.
 

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Yeah, same here. Both Nichiwa and NGK caps had resistors. Could've been replaced. Maybe Honda doubled-up resistance for early '80s RFI suppression.

I cut rod pieces longer than the resistors. I do away with the springs as well when I run 'em hot. I forget the length. 21mm? ...something like that. The screw would seat onto the rod, then I get 1 full turn to bottom it.
 

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I bought a set of ND non-resistor plugs (X24EP-U9) -- to run with the resistor caps and the 7MM copper core wire... that should work, correct? Also, any experience with ND plugs vice NGK?
 

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Will work fine. New plugs, caps and wires are always good.

No exp with ND plugs here.
 

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Hi
Thought I'd chip in here.

ND or Nippon Denso are good. Like most of us we sort of develop a brand loyalty to the ones that don't give us grief.



:bow:

No resistor caps on mine a 1980 gl1100 A.
 

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Thank you all for the info -- very helpful... And goldtop -- 150,000+ KM's? Any major engine repairs? It's always very encouraging to hear how many miles we can pile on our old (30+ years) wings -- mine is still a pup with only 61K miles... my new years resolution is to get all my maintenance work done now in winter, and ride as soon as it warms up... Pistol Pete will have the carbs on Wed... will let you know how well it runs when this is all done...
 

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CometRanch 150,000 ks is about half that in miles . For some reason my 83 doesn't like NGK plugs but Autolite work real good in it
 

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Hi Comet Ranch



That mileage is in good old Miles not Kilometres.



The engine was rebuilt with new rings and crank seals and clutchat about 90,000. I have done a new set of head gaskets and valve guides and seals with cam seals at about 130,000.



Rear drive spline and spider in rear wheel are wearing now but holding up so far. The parts are not available so it's second hand or a rebuild of the originals.



No work on carbs at all.



It was stripped to it's componants with engine out the lot and rebuilt and painted with a fresh coat of paint on the body panels.



That was just me being a nut and wanting a new look. Cost me enough!



It's had one new exhaust.



I guess at the moment I am looking at at least 200,000 before the next set of rings and internals.
 
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