[sodbuster2x]

Putting bike back together after painting it and lost all power to dash and stuff, yet it worked the night before this as I put things together and would turn on the switch to see if a piece would work as I put them on I have checked out all the post from what I read could be #3 relay they also say this relay should click when you turn on the switch mine does nothing. Tested the first relay in box top left according how to test a relay it shows it is bad if I done it right so does the the next one to it. Checked power on hot side of fuzes and I have several that are not getting juice ( #1, 4, 7, 10, 11) can't find #12 & 13. check ground to the fuze box and cleaned it up. the way they said to test relays was to set tester to lowest ohms at 1x 2 of the post should have 0 ohms mine don't move needle at all othe two should have 7 ohms I have about 150 ohms also notice when I pulled my ground of the battery to clean it makes spark as if something is drawing power but nothing is turned on. need some advice bad I am lost and sick to my stomach

 

[John J]

On the point about the neg lead sparking..the power to the radio causes it and it is normal. You could put a meter between the neg lead and the neg post to measure the draw and it should be a very low reading, about .05amps I think from memory.

 

[sodbuster2x]

but I forgot to mention I did not hook the radio up on the bike yet only thing hooked up beside lights is the cb

 

[John J]

If it all worked the night before it would be unlucky to be a relay. I would start by checking the battery terminals, both dogbone fuses, the white connection block under the left pocket and all fuses including the two 5amp ones behind the battery.
Im sure one of the gurus on this site will be along with some expert advice.

 

[jp in mn]

Are you sure the battery is at full charge?

 

[sodbuster2x]

Battery is fully charged cleaned ground and positive terminals got juice thru dog bone and 30 amp fuze

 

[satan]

Not all fuses have power at all times (what key position for which fuses is VERY relevant!). Remember in the '88 the fuses and relays are NOT the same configuration as the 1500SE, so specific names of relays will get you to a more accuratemore accurate diagnosis.

What key position are you testing when you find power on fuses 2, 3, 5, 6, 8 & 9? This could be diagnostic for key in the ON position ...

... if indeed this is the key "ON" position for your '88, and you do not have power to either side of fuse 11 ("HORN"), then check the 30-amp fuse that is mounted on Starter Solenoid A; I think you'll find it bad ... Look for a short circuit though -- it takes quite a bit to cook a 30A fuse.

 

[sodbuster2x]

I have juice there with key in off position Check my draw on my ground wire had 11v draw started down thru pulling fuzes to see if I could determine which on was pulling power and fuze #9 made volts on ground go to 0v it seems like it is feeding power backwards my paper says it is reverse start? still have juice on the other fuzes I mentioned in off position with this #9 fuze pulled

 

[satan]

#9 for your year should a 5A fuse labeled as "BACKUP" -- again, huge difference by year here - (labels should be on the fuse box cover) This fuse provides fulltime battery power to the clock, and both radios -- with only your CB hoocked up you'd prolly be pulling like 2-3 mA through that fuse to hold the last-channel memory.

For your year fuse #7 (PARK) won't have power until you flip the key counter-closkwise to the "P" position -- and this would light the tail lamps and enable the compressor's hose outlet.

When you turn the key to ON position, which of your fuses do have power? this may help more with chasing things down --

We've established that with the key OFF you have power at: fuses 2, 3, 5, 6, 8 & 9

With the key ON, a couple of more relays should pull-in to provide a few of the high-current fuses some juice (pretty much all the fuses except #7 should come-up as hot with the key in the ON position, finding which ones are not hot, will point directly to the switching and or fuse that's gone south on ya)

 

[sodbuster2x]

Yes you are right on what has power I will check this further tomorrow and let you know what I find. Could you tell me what each fuze is for? My lid was not on my bike when I got it. I thank you very much for helping me so far I was sick to my stomach today when I pulled the ground wire off the Battery and put my volt meter between the ground wire and the battery and it was showing 11 volts till I pulled the #9 fuze.

 

[satan]

I don't have my '88 here with me, but I can offer a little insight on the fuse functions for the '88-'89 from what's stuck in my head.. I'll try to verify this somehow (prolly off the lid of my '88 when next I see it) and post in corrections and those that I can't remember later... perhaps someone else can chime in as well! ??

(caveat emptor - only for the '88-'89 only)
1 - Accessory terminal 5A
2 - Ignition/Cruise 15A
3 - Headlight LOW BEAM
4 - Fans 10A ?? (this may be only on the non-US ??)
5 - Headlight HIGH BEAM
6 - Air Compressor
7 - Parking (hot only with Key in "P")
8 - Tail & Lighting 15A
9 - Batt-sourced memory and clock "BACKUP"
10 - Accessory (hot with key in "ACC", "ON", & "P")
11 - Horn / Turn 15A
​

 

[sodbuster2x]

Thank you Satan When I turn switch to park #7 dose not have juice only #2,3,5,6,8,9 and the same on acc. and on positions no juice to any other fuzes but these

 

[satan]

Is there any chance that you've unplugged your ignition switch?

• Voltage present on fuse 9 would indicate that the 30A fuse on Starter Relay A is in good condition (you also checked this in the #7 post of this thread)
• With the key in P fuse 7 should be powered.
• With the key in On/Acc/Park fuses 1 and 10 should receive power DIRECTLY through a set of contacts in the ignition switch.

To me - this indicates that power is not getting to the ignition switch, or that the ignition switch has failed. Given that panels were removed, I suspect only a loose connecor, but let's walk the whole thing to be certain.

At this point, I would suggest that we concentrate only on the switched power items, since no switching is happening for you (and you've already assured that the battery is fully charged and both terminals on the batery are cleanly/solidly connected to the bike's harness):

1. Return to Starter Relay A and ensure that the 4-pin red connector is clean and fully seated and again that the 30A fuse is in good shape and fully seated.
2. With the Key OFF, measure the voltage on the RED wire connected at the 4-pin connector.
3. With the Key in ON, measure the voltage on the RED wire connected at the 4-pin connector.
4. Move to the connectors that are under the left fairing (pretty much behind the side-marker refelctor/lamp), ensure that all of these are connected.
5. We're particularly interested in a 8-pin Black conector (hint:This connector should have a RED wire in it). take a VERY good look at this one, disconnect it, clean it, and reconnect it.
6. With the Key OFF, measure the voltage on the RED wire in this 8-pin connector.
7. With the Key ON, measure the voltage on the RED wire in this 8-pin connector.
8. With the Key OFF, measure the voltage on the Light Green with black stripe wire in this 8-pin connector.
9. With the Key ON, measure the voltage on the Light Green with black stripe wire in this 8-pin connector.

(for reference this is common across all GL1500s) The theory here is that the RED wire draws direct from the battery through the 30A fuse that you checked in post #7. That RED wire passes directly to the ignition switch for many of the functions that you're missing. The RED wire passes through the 8-pin black connector in the connector mounts inside the left fairing (behind the reflector area) then through the switch's contacts and would provide switched power to the LIGHT GREEN with Black striped wire with the key in ON, ACC, and P positions.

The test steps above will locate a broken wire, or failed ignition switch depending on outcome.

 

[wingnut]

...The RED wire passes through the 8-pin black connector in the connector mounts inside the left fairing (behind the reflector area)...

Good observation Stan. It would be worth checking that particular wire, they are known to corrode in the connector, causing loss of ignition power. I've seen a couple of them break down on the road because of that wire. In each case it had corroded badly in the connector, probably because of the way it is partly exposed to the elements.

 

[GWNorman]

Good observation Stan. It would be worth checking that particular wire, they are known to corrode in the connector, causing loss of ignition power. I've seen a couple of them break down on the road because of that wire. In each case it had corroded badly in the connector, probably because of the way it is partly exposed to the elements.

Yes, it's a thick wire stuffed into a comparatively weak connector. The damp weather we get on this side has corroded and furred up a few of them on local GWOCGB members. It got a mention in Wingspan a long time ago. I agree it's worth checking that wire and connector.

 

[sodbuster2x]

I will not get time till Fri night or Sat to check this will let you know what I find Thank You very much

 

[sodbuster2x]

This kind of embarrassing but went to the garage tonight turned key on and everything is working turned key of & on 20 x's jiggled wires and done about everything I could trying to get it to quit and it works fine now. I am really baffled on why it done this. Thank you for your time and efforts praying it keeps working