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Discussion Starter #1
I just got back from a 7000 mile 12 day trip. Got 36 mile from home and my 96 1500 goldwing doesn,t have any forward gears. It shifts in every gear but won't move. No claim g or banging
Stopped to fill her up with gas and went to pull out and nothing. Got her home. Put it up on jack stands and give her gas and nothing
It has a leman trike kit on it. Bled the master cylinder for the clutch and the slave cylinder. The drive shaft doesn't t even turn
Any suggestions. Transmission? 29,000 miles on it
 

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I just got back from a 7000 mile 12 day trip. Got 36 mile from home and my 96 1500 goldwing doesn,t have any forward gears. It shifts in every gear but won't move. No claim g or banging
Stopped to fill her up with gas and went to pull out and nothing. Got her home. Put it up on jack stands and give her gas and nothing
It has a leman trike kit on it. Bled the master cylinder for the clutch and the slave cylinder. The drive shaft doesn't t even turn
Any suggestions. Transmission? 29,000 miles on it
Front U-joint is my first guess. remove rear universal joint straps and drop U-joint from rear axle, then pull the driveshaft out and look up driveshaft tunnel towards transmission.

How sure are you that the driveshaft doesn't turn. It is just possible that the weld between driveshaft and rear U-joint yoke has let go and shaft is just spinning in yoke. Lower yoke in picture is the welded early make up, upper is a newer splined shaft set up.


I once asked a Lehman guy his experiences as to which was tougher. My '97 was converted in '98 and had welded shaft until a few years ago when I found a splined set up, I use the splined version now, the welded shaft is my spare. His reply is here:
I have seen failures on both the un-splined and splined versions of the shaft. The welded (un-splined) versions might fail because of initial prep or a bad weld, but mostly from abuse. The original owners were mostly well trained in how they treated their trikes. The second owners were a little more brutal and the third owners are generally worse. The splined shaft failures are usually abuse. Of course proper phasing of the u-joints is imperative.

Failures of the driveshaft, even the front joint rarely cause significant damage such as transmission output shaft.

Driveshaft vibration can be caused by a lot of different things. The splined yoke being loose. It should have a set screw and a groove on the splines for the screw so that the yoke can't move on the shaft. Improper phasing of the u-joints and sometimes just simply rotating the front joint 180 degrees will reduce if not eliminate vibrations. The last thing is front yoke to output shaft. I have seen some that appeared to be good but putting the trike in gear the front yoke would move on the output shaft like the splines inside the yoke were bad. I have never seen an output shaft spline go bad. YET !!

And of course the last thing is balance which I have never seen when using the right parts.

Lehman Tech since 1998
Champion Tech since 2005
Lehman & Champion Dealer Owner Operator
Iron Butt Rider 2001
Jim Murphy

Location ....Martinsburg, WV


 

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When the problem happened was their fluid in the reservoir?
Now that the system has been flushed and bled, does it have good pressure?
 

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A clutch hydraulic problem would have the opposite effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The master cylinder was almost dry, so I filled it up, bled the slave cylinder , still nothing. I then started up top. Bled the master cylinder. Then the slave cylinder. Still nothing. When it first starts up, the back wheels will spin, but I can stop them with my hands in gear. Even the drive shaft stops spinning in gear running
 

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If the rear wheels spun slowly at start up, sounds like maybe "windage" or "friction" drive … since you could stop them with the hand.


Still no noises either?????
No noises in driveline or transmission?????


Did you look at the drive shaft at welded end closely? A broken weld where the shortened OEM shaft enters the rear Neapco yoke would still leave shaft inserted in yoke to spin. The instructions for making the shaft say to weld at tip too, but mine never was, and mine had like 60,xxx miles on that welded drive shaft before I swapped in updated splined shaft with a new Valkyrie front U-joint and a new Moog 430 rear U-joint.


I don't see low hydraulic fluid in line causing it, but if the line somehow became blocked and trapped clutch fluid under pressure after you pulled clutch lever, could keep clutch disengaged. Does or did the clutch lever feel normal or limp on release? What you normally feel returning the lever to relaxed position is clutch spring pressure pushing fluid back up to clutch master cylinder.


Clutch plates could be worn out, but I would expect the symptoms to be noticed before. Things like a lot of prolonged clutch slipping when lever released. I don't know your habits, but I've seen people really slowly drag out the clutch engagement once triked, with the engine reved up, "slipping the clutch" excessively pulling away from stop, two up, with trailer. It's a wet clutch of multi plate design, it is tough, but it is killable.
 

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A complete failure of the damper plate could cause this but , like CrystalPistol says, it seems like symptoms would have shown up before the failure occurred. Also seems like there would be some noise from the back of the motor.
 

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The master cylinder was almost dry, so I filled it up, bled the slave cylinder , still nothing. I then started up top. Bled the master cylinder. Then the slave cylinder. Still nothing. When it first starts up, the back wheels will spin, but I can stop them with my hands in gear. Even the drive shaft stops spinning in gear running
Yes it was real low
If you found it low, there's a good possibility that the fluid has seeped out and is now inside the engine. You may want to rebuild the slave cylinder. Don't let the hydraulic fluid remain in the engine as it is harmful, change the oil and filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I drove it that day frommissori to greensburg Pa. I pulled in to get gas
When I started it up, put it in first to let the clutch out. The fro t end went down and the motor died down some. But the bike never moved. The temp gauge wasn't quite half way, it being 96 out. I checked the master cylinder and was almost dry. I put dot 3 in and bled the slave cylinder but still no forward gears. I jacked it up and preyed back the rubber boot covering drive shaft
On start up the back wheels will turn, but I can stop them with my hands while it is gear. Had my wife stop them from turning and the output shaft stops turning
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have a spline shaft. Pulled it and everything checked out. Could the slave cylinder cause this. When I opened the master cylinder, the tiny bit of fluid that was on their was black with some black sh-- in the master cylinder.I cleaned out all of the black stuff with air. When I bleed the slave cylinder black fluid comes out.
 

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You may want to rebuild the slave cylinder and replace the seal. There's a kit to rebuild it but the seal is not included. The seal if it fails allows the hydraulic fluid to seep into the engine.
 

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Well, if the clutch is toasted (failed) …
… on the up side, it can be replaced without removing the engine on a 1500.


I just don't believe this is a hydraulic problem so suddenly, especially as you have had the bleeder valve open.

A failure in the hydraulic operating system (master cylinder / line / slave cylinder) would prevent you from disengaging the clutch to sit at traffic lights in gear or to shift, etc. It would not prevent the transfer of power to the transmission or driveline. Smoked or worn clutch disc, broken basket, stuff like that … would stop the transfer of power to the transmission or driveline A really worn set of discs would still maybe transfer just enough power to rotate the drive unloaded rear wheels with little or no noise heard.

Good Luck.
 

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Here's another check he can make, if by chance the level of the engine oil is higher than it should be, that's where the hydraulic fluid migrated to and why the reservoir is empty.
 

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You may want to rebuild the slave cylinder and replace the seal. There's a kit to rebuild it but the seal is not included. The seal if it fails allows the hydraulic fluid to seep into the engine.
As I said, it is not likely a clutch hydraulic problem. The master and slave release the clutch, they do not engage the clutch. Instead of no forward gears you would have gears but wouldn't be able to disengage them. I could ride it like that but a lot of motorcycle drivers wouldn't know what to do.
 
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