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You said "no forward gears". I take a guess you did try reverse and moved the bike? That eliminates the driveline.
I am going the other way . You said the master cylinder had a lot of black stuff. If there is a wad of that in the slave cylinder perhaps the piston is stuck in the disengage position. Also though very slim , there is a chance the rubber fluid line is failing internally. It could act as a check valve and be holding hydraulic pressure, but doubtful.

I would remove the slave cylinder and see if the trike will roll freely when in gear and pushed by hand.
Lets work externally before jumping inside.
 

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I am going the other way . You said the master cylinder had a lot of black stuff. If there is a wad of that in the slave cylinder perhaps the piston is stuck in the disengage position.-----

This is defiantly a possibility. I remember back in high school, I had a '69 Catalina. After school on day, I stopped at a buddy's house. When I went to leave, I couldn't move as the left front brake caliper stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I took off the slave cylinder and tried putting it in gear. The tires still don't turn. Any suggestions now. Is it the clutch?
 

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It has to be a shot clutch. Either the disks are cooked or there's a mechanical failure.
 

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Have you looked at the output shaft? I think Honda calls it the final shaft.

Like I mentioned before, a complete failure of the damper plate might do this but maybe other clutch pieces could too. They are dealing with the additional load of the trike.

Seems like, if the clutch was the culprit, it would still have enough force to overpower your hand.
 

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Since removing the slave cylinder did not succeed in applying the clutch I would now think it is an internal problem. Of which it could be many .
There could be problems with the multi disc assembly or the clutch diaphragm spring may have failed .That spring failure, would release the apply pressure on the clutch pack.
Another fail point I see could be the damper spring on the output shaft. Looking at the photos in the service book, if that coil spring was to break, it could disengage from the final driven gear. Though I suspect that would lead to a knocking/clicking noise.
Wish I could offer some other simple theory to try :(
 

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If you can turn the lifter plate without the outer clutch hub turning it is effectively disengaged as I view the service manual photos. To me this goes to the diaphragm spring I mentioned in my earlier post.
Understand , I do not have a clutch assembly in my hands. I am only reading the service book and photos.

I hope the following (my understanding of the operation) helps clarify the operation of the drive system- crankshaft to output shaft.
Turning the lifter plate is turning the steel plates in the clutch pack . If the clutch assembly is engaged, the diaphragm spring is applying pressure to the pack. Turning the lifter plate to an engaged clutch turns the steel plates which are bound to the friction disc by the diaphragm spring pressure, thus connecting it to the outer clutch basket.
The outer clutch basket is driven by the crankshaft. When the clutch is engaged, it turns the inner portion of the clutch basket(steel plates) which drives the mainshaft.
When a forward gear is selected and the clutch is engaged it turns the mainshaft which turns the countershaft, which powers the output shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I can turn the lifter plate with two fingers without turning the clutch pack. When I took out the bolts that hold the lifter plate in, there was no tension in the plate. The book says to loosen the bolts in a crisp cross pattern. As soon as I broke them loose, you could turn them out with your fingers.
 

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I think the next step for you is to bend the lock tab out of the way so you can remove the nut holding the clutch plates/hub assembly on the main shaft.
I know mother honda has a special tool to hold the clutch center . Not sure about the space you are working in. If you have access to an air impact and space to use it. that might remove the nut without the honda tool .
When you begin removing all these clutch parts pay close attention the order of assembly . There are many parts that need to reassemble in the correct order. Are you working with a Honda Service manual?
As you remove the parts the fibre disc should measure 3.5mm/0.14in . The steel plates should measure 0.30mm/0.012in.
I dont see a measurement for the damper plate, only to check that the wave springis not damaged. If this damper wave spring is flat that could be the problem.
When you get to the diaphragm spring it should be a convex shape measuring 5.1mm/0.20in tall. Measuring it laying flat, convex up. Measure from the center tangs to the base/surface you have it laying on.
If you are able to remove the clutch center/hub the diaphragm spring is located behind this hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I have the clutch pack out. I can move all of the clutch disc with just my finger tips
Is this right. I thought they should be real tight in there.
 

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So you have removed the nut from the mainshaft and pulled the clutch pak out of the basket? If so there is no tension on the clutch plates.
You should have in hand 21 pieces of the clutch pak
One clutch center
One pressure plate ( four posted part)
nineteen assorted fibre/steel plates ( which must be kept in correct order)
7 disc A- fibre
1 disc B- fibre
2 disc C- fibre
1 Clutch damper plate ( 3 pieces , 2 plates seperated by a wave spring)
8 steel plates
If you have the pressure plate in hand , look on the main shaft for the diaphragm spring. Also what looks like a circlip.

Now with the clutch assembly removed, Put the transmission in gear. Rotate the output shaft ( drive shaft) When doing this the mainshaft should rotate in the same direction .

Do you have the factory service manual? If so we can be sure we are talking/looking at the same reference points.

Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
3 of the clutch disc are down to bear metal on both sides and 3 are down to bear metal on one side. Just ordered everything new. Gonna rebuild slave cylinder too
 

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Inspect everything carefully. A worn out clutch doesn't let go all at once like you described. You would have had slipping for quite a long time before it would get to the point it wouldn't move. So you probably have more than one problem.
 

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Be sure to change oil and filter at time and maybe the next few times at early intervals. I would change early and use SeaFoam(directions on can) additive the last 100 or so miles before the oil/filter change. . That's a lot of fiber floating around someplace .
 

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I drove it that day frommissori to greensburg Pa. I pulled in to get gas
When I started it up, put it in first to let the clutch out. The fro t end went down and the motor died down some. But the bike never moved. The temp gauge wasn't quite half way, it being 96 out. I checked the master cylinder and was almost dry. I put dot 3 in and bled the slave cylinder but still no forward gears. I jacked it up and preyed back the rubber boot covering drive shaft
On start up the back wheels will turn, but I can stop them with my hands while it is gear. Had my wife stop them from turning and the output shaft stops turning
I know I'm late reading this but if I'm not mistaken you should use DOT 4 I'm sure DOT 3 would work in a pinch but as long you are rebuilding the clutch system I would recommend using the correct Fluid.
 

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I know I'm late reading this but if I'm not mistaken you should use DOT 4 I'm sure DOT 3 would work in a pinch but as long you are rebuilding the clutch system I would recommend using the correct Fluid.
I don't think it really matters. DOT4 has a higher boiling point but not a problem in a clutch system especially & unless it is synthetic DOT4 also absorbs moisture faster than DOT3, lowering it's boiling point at a higher rate. Most fluid you find now is both DOT 3&4 compatible.
 
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