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1982 GL1100 Aspencade aprox. 40K miles

Just replaced the starter button on the throttle assembly and I now have headlights. Second day I rode it, it started fine at the house, then at the gas station. When I got to work 63 miles later, I noticed that I had no neutral light. I turned off the bike and then turned the key back on and my rad.fan came on, first time, didn't even know it had one. Temperature guage read very low as it was 7AM and about 40 degrees outside. Now, just a clickwhen pressingthe starter button. Checked voltage on both side of solinoid when pressing button, about 12.4V on both sides. Tried shorting the clutch wires together, no luck. Can't get to started housing without pulling side panels off to check ground or voltage there.

I am stuck at work unless I can bump start it. Anyone have any ideas, it must be related to the neutral light, right?
 

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have you tried starting with the clutch lever pulled in ?-----oooppss---
 

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wda-83wing wrote:
have you tried starting with the clutch lever pulled in ?
Yes, I tried that and tried shorting the two wires together. Still no luck. Good voltage, no drop in voltage when I hit the button. I looked at voltage on both sides of the solinoid and it is the same when button is pressed. I would think it would drop if the starter was bad.
 

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just for giggles --try tapping the starter while holding the button in .
 

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Yeah I want to do that but have to pull chrome side covers to even see the starter. I don't think I can dig that deep here at work. I will look into how much trouble it would be to do that.

Thanks,

Jeff
 

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FlyLikeABandit wrote:
Yeah I want to do that but have to pull chrome side covers to even see the starter. I don't think I can dig that deep here at work. I will look into how much trouble it would be to do that.

Thanks,

Jeff
And that's the reason I gave away those chrome engine covers off my 1100. You need access to the starter selonoid to check the 30 amp fuse on it.
 

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Bagmaster wrote:
And that's the reason I gave away those chrome engine covers off my 1100. You need access to the starter selonoid to check the 30 amp fuse on it.
Checked the fuse at the solonoid, it is fine, even have a spare one in the bottom of the box.
 

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You say it "Clicked" when pressing the starter? Then this is probly not the problem but just to make sure,,,,,,,,, check that your "KILL SWITCH" is on and off.
 

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Winger77 wrote:
You say it "Clicked" when pressing the starter? Then this is probly not the problem but just to make sure,,,,,,,,, check that your "KILL SWITCH" is on and off.
Been there, done that. It has happened before but not the problem this time.

Thanks,
 

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UPDATE:

Neutral light is working again now. Looked at starter diagram and saw a 5A fuse in path to nuetral light. Checked it, sure enough it was blown. Question is why. Rear shock light flicker on twice when I was riding. I see it is in the same fuse. Thought I found the problem but still no start, just clicking.



Can't get to the starter but the voltage is 12V on the other side of the solonoid, 12.6V at entrance to solonoid. I am thinking this has something to do with the ground path.


Just saw that nuetral light does not go out when you change gears, another piece of the puzzle. Any clues now guys?
 

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You'll have to check the voltage at the starter terminal to make sure there's any voltage actually at the starter. If you have 12V at the starter with the starter button pressed there's a problem with the starter. There may be something else going wrong in your electrical system because the fan shouldn't come on unless the temp is pretty high, usually around 3/4 scale on the gauge. About the only thing that will make the fan come on would be a failure of the thermostatic switch or a short in the wiring from the fan to the switch. The fan has 12V applied to it, the thermostatic switch provides a ground when the switch closes due to heat.

If the start relay is operating there's nothing between that and the starter. The clutch safety switch and the neutral switch only prevent thestart relay from operating. If the start relay is 'clicking' it would mean the neutral switch is closed. The clutch switch doesn't come into play unless you're starting the bike in gear. Check the start relay by making sure there's voltage on the cable from the battery, then check the other heavy cable with the meter. There should be voltage when you push the start button. If you don't see anything there's a problem with the wiring between the start button and the relay. You can eliminate the neutral switch by shorting it's wire to ground, that should give a continuous green light on the panel.
 

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Thanks Exavid, I will check the voltage at the starter since I have the cover off now. I follow your reasoning via the schematic. I am to the point that I believe I have 12V on the starter, leading me to believe the starter is bad. I will check and verify the voltage tonight if I have time.
 

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Update!!
Finally got new starter from Ebay. Had a tough time installing as the spline wouldn't go into the portion in the motor. It would start to go in because when I would pull it out it would be slightly stuck to the spline. I finally jiggled it and hit it from weird angles with a rubber mallet and finally in inched it's way in. It started right up and I said hurray. Started a few more times and then the starter clutch stopped engaging, starter just spun. Now, sometimes it engages, other times it doesn't. When it does engage, it appears to stay engaged slightly when it starts before being thrown back out. I never noticed that before. Previously, it did the same thing about not engaging all the time. I thought maybe it was because of the weak starter. Do I have other problems or did I install the starter wrong? What do you guys think? Thanks in advance,
Jeff
 

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Battery is weak, try charging it till it's fully charged then try the starter. Also add some seafoam to the crankcase oil to help clean the sprague assembly of the starter.
 

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The problem could be with the starter turning slow due to a weak battery, poor grounding, badcable connections, or a start relay with burned contacts. If all the above are okay the Sea Foam additive may help clean up the rollers in the overrun clutch that's on the other end of the starter chain. Low temperatures and thick oil also contribute to this kind of problem. In those cases the problem only exhibits on cold engine starts but works okay when the engine is hot. The only other likely cause are worn rollers in the clutch assembly but that's fairly rare.
 

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Thanks guys, I was wondering whether I should drive it. It is cold out side, probably 40F when I was working on it. Battery is good and charged but I am sure that every time I started it the charge went down more. So, cold weather, battery getting weaker, hasn't been run in three weeks, all of the above I believe are contributing to the problem.
I will try the Seafoam though probably good for it.

Thanks again and ride safe everyone.
 

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It won't hurt anything, if worse comes to worst you can always push start it with a bit of help or use a jumper cable. Usually once the engine has been warmed up good the problem isn't as bad during the rest of the day. Marvel Mystery Oil is another good product for cleaning up the crankcase, might be better for that than Sea Foam which is one of the best for fuel additives.
 
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