That's bad news. The oil pump is driven by a chain in the rear case, never heard of one breaking but it could happen. It's an engine out job either way and engine disassembly to get to the main pump.
No Oil Pressure! Need Some Guidance
1994 Gl1500 SE California Sidecar new to me. Was driving home & engine oil light came on when exiting the freeway about 1/2 mile from home could hear lifter/valve train starting to clatter. Checked oil level, was above center mark & below top mark. Allowed to cool down and rode home. Checked oil pressure swx continuity & checked ok but ordered new OEM switch as it had been replaced by PO not OEM. Changed oil & filter, replaced oil pressure switch, and light remains on. Removed switch, started engine and no oil coming out of threaded galley for oil pressure switch. I’m not sure how to check the oil pump operation and appears there’s no screen like the earlier engines. I have the factory manual but need some direction and sage advice before I have a panic attack. Disabled Vet and unable to afford retail repairs. Anyone know anyone in Phoenix, AZ that may be a source for some help?
Thanks in advance for your time and help with my dilemma.
Terry
Thanks in advance for your time and help with my dilemma.
Terry
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From what you list i would expect crank/bearing damaged, cheapest option is a used engine im afraid, rebuild cost are high
I appreciate your feedback but the engine is not making any knocking noise and there’s no metal particles in the oil that was drained…Sounds like lifters are clacking a bit but not severely.From what you list i would expect crank/bearing damaged, cheapest option is a used engine im afraid, rebuild cost are high
Not trying to be argumentative but at this point I think that trying to hope to know if there’s a way to figure out if the oil pump is working or not, and whether or not it may be likely on this engine for oil passages (screen?$ to be clogged up and if so how to flush and still save the engine???
You have tested for oil pump function by removing the sender. No oil flow = no pump function. Since it was a sudden onset, it's not likely to be sludge clogging things up, that would happen over time with the oil light flickering at idle, etc. However, it is possible, so one thing you can do is run 60-80 pounds of air pressure into the sender port. Do this with the oil cap open and see what happens. If it is something that can be dislodged, that should do it. If the sludge is that bad, the motor should come apart anyway as it will be everywhere, but that might buy you some time. Maybe pull a valve cover and see how it looks inside. If the pump has broken a shaft or drive, everything has to come apart anyway. The best way to possibly save the engine is to pull it out and take it apart to find out what is wrong.
In the future the best way to save an engine is if the oil light comes on, shut it off and have it towed.
In the future the best way to save an engine is if the oil light comes on, shut it off and have it towed.
Thanks I appreciate your time and help. I’ll try your suggestion and see what happens. As I mentioned I’m pretty convinced that the engine isn’t severely affected as I shut it off immediately and it runs too quietly at this point. That said other than the oil pressure switch galley check for flow is there any other way to validate the pump as being inoperable before having to disassemble the engine?
Well, if you knew the oil passages well enough, you might be able to do something like remove the oil filter and snake a camera through the main feed from the oil pump and be able to see if the rotor is turning when you rotate the engine. I can think of some engines where this would be possible but many that wouldn't. No idea about the 1500 as I've never had one that far apart.
I almost forgot, you can remove the water pump and see if the oil pump shaft is even turning. No turning would confirm a failure, but the pump rotor could have sheared the drive key so a turning shaft won't confirm function.
I almost forgot, you can remove the water pump and see if the oil pump shaft is even turning. No turning would confirm a failure, but the pump rotor could have sheared the drive key so a turning shaft won't confirm function.
I just looked at the front cover, and there is a tight 90 turn to the oil pump outlet. Doubtful you could get a camera around the corner. I was hoping it was a straight shot to the filter. I am thinking that you might be able to pull that front cover with the engine in the bike. Maybe someone with some experience can confirm that. Then you can see right into the oil pump.
Thank you again!
That is extremely helpful & interesting enough I was looking at the repair manual and happened across what you described. I wasn’t sure if the shaft that drives the water pump would indicate what you described or not. If I understand correctly the water pump shaft is fitted into to the back of the water pump and held in place when the pump is bolted on, and the shaft is held in with a key that goes in a slot in the water pump shaft, and driven by the oil pump on the oil pump end to turn the water pump? So if the oil pump isn’t rotating then the water pump shaft won’t rotate when the engine is turned over? Also if water pump shaft didn’t rotate if the keyway was damaged and the oil pump was working, would the oil pump still provide oil pressure to the engine but the water pump would not work/overheat condition vs engine oil flow issue?
Sorry to be long winded, just trying to be sure I have it right in my head. (Scary to be sure…)
Thanks again for your feedback.
Terry
That is extremely helpful & interesting enough I was looking at the repair manual and happened across what you described. I wasn’t sure if the shaft that drives the water pump would indicate what you described or not. If I understand correctly the water pump shaft is fitted into to the back of the water pump and held in place when the pump is bolted on, and the shaft is held in with a key that goes in a slot in the water pump shaft, and driven by the oil pump on the oil pump end to turn the water pump? So if the oil pump isn’t rotating then the water pump shaft won’t rotate when the engine is turned over? Also if water pump shaft didn’t rotate if the keyway was damaged and the oil pump was working, would the oil pump still provide oil pressure to the engine but the water pump would not work/overheat condition vs engine oil flow issue?
Sorry to be long winded, just trying to be sure I have it right in my head. (Scary to be sure…)
Thanks again for your feedback.
Terry
Well, if you knew the oil passages well enough, you might be able to do something like remove the oil filter and snake a camera through the main feed from the oil pump and be able to see if the rotor is turning when you rotate the engine. I can think of some engines where this would be possible but many that wouldn't. No idea about the 1500 as I've never had one that far apart.
I almost forgot, you can remove the water pump and see if the oil pump shaft is even turning. No turning would confirm a failure, but the pump rotor could have sheared the drive key so a turning shaft won't confirm function.
Thank you again!Well, if you knew the oil passages well enough, you might be able to do something like remove the oil filter and snake a camera through the main feed from the oil pump and be able to see if the rotor is turning when you rotate the engine. I can think of some engines where this would be possible but many that wouldn't. No idea about the 1500 as I've never had one that far apart.
I almost forgot, you can remove the water pump and see if the oil pump shaft is even turning. No turning would confirm a failure, but the pump rotor could have sheared the drive key so a turning shaft won't confirm function.
That is extremely helpful & interesting enough I was looking at the repair manual and happened across what you described. I wasn’t sure if the shaft that drives the water pump would indicate what you described or not. If I understand correctly the water pump shaft is fitted into to the back of the water pump and held in place when the pump is bolted on, and the shaft is held in with a key that goes in a slot in the water pump shaft, and driven by the oil pump on the oil pump end to turn the water pump? So if the oil pump isn’t rotating then the water pump shaft won’t rotate when the engine is turned over? Also if water pump shaft didn’t rotate if the keyway was damaged and the oil pump was working, would the oil pump still provide oil pressure to the engine but the water pump would not work/overheat condition vs engine oil flow issue?
Sorry to be long winded, just trying to be sure I have it right in my head. (Scary to be sure…)
Thanks again for your feedback.
Terry
Ok I’m following along with you in my service manual.Factory service manual to the rescue. Yes, you can pull that cover Without pulling the motor.
View attachment 332356
I’m with you as far as:
Remove water pump validate if the oil pump is driving the water pump shaft.
man’s I understand the process to remove the front cover but I’m not sure what the purpose for this procedure is about.
(Sorry if I misunderstood)Thanks again.
Terry
How far you have to go in depends on what you find along the way. Just removing the water pump hose then seeing if the impeller turns when you turn over the motor will tell you something. If it isn't turning, the engine has to come out.
If it is turning, you can pull the front cover and look into the oil pump to see if the rotor is turning with the shaft. If it isn't there is a problem with the rotor spinning on the shaft. Engine has to come out. If it is turning, you have to look at other reasons you have no oil pressure. Oil transfer tube broken, oil pickup broken off, oil pump casting broken, etc. All things you will see once you get the front cover off. More than likely the engine will have to come out no matter what you find. But you will be in a better position to decide if you want to repair your engine or just get a used engine. Some new parts are not available so used may be your only option anyway.
If it is turning, you can pull the front cover and look into the oil pump to see if the rotor is turning with the shaft. If it isn't there is a problem with the rotor spinning on the shaft. Engine has to come out. If it is turning, you have to look at other reasons you have no oil pressure. Oil transfer tube broken, oil pickup broken off, oil pump casting broken, etc. All things you will see once you get the front cover off. More than likely the engine will have to come out no matter what you find. But you will be in a better position to decide if you want to repair your engine or just get a used engine. Some new parts are not available so used may be your only option anyway.
woudnt the bike have been running hot as you lost oil pressure?Ok I’m following along with you in my service manual.
I’m with you as far as:
Remove water pump validate if the oil pump is driving the water pump shaft.
man’s I understand the process to remove the front cover but I’m not sure what the purpose for this procedure is about.
(Sorry if I misunderstood)Thanks again.
Terry
It would take a while for it to start getting hot. He probably wouldn't have noticed in 1/2 mile.woudnt the bike have been running hot as you lost oil pressure?
I m
Any good sources for an engine so I can get those ducks lined up as necessary?
Got it. I will dig into it and get back to you with what I find and we’ll go from there.How far you have to go in depends on what you find along the way. Just removing the water pump hose then seeing if the impeller turns when you turn over the motor will tell you something. If it isn't turning, the engine has to come out.
If it is turning, you can pull the front cover and look into the oil pump to see if the rotor is turning with the shaft. If it isn't there is a problem with the rotor spinning on the shaft. Engine has to come out. If it is turning, you have to look at other reasons you have no oil pressure. Oil transfer tube broken, oil pickup broken off, oil pump casting broken, etc. All things you will see once you get the front cover off. More than likely the engine will have to come out no matter what you find. But you will be in a better position to decide if you want to repair your engine or just get a used engine. Some new parts are not available so used may be your only option anyway.
Any good sources for an engine so I can get those ducks lined up as necessary?
It only takes seconds of no oil to score a bearing shell and journal, personaly i would not trust that engine
Thank you for your feedback.It only takes seconds of no oil to score a bearing shell and journal, personaly i would not trust that engine
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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