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Discussion Starter #21
Sorry, I do not have a manual for this year. But I remember reading something about an electrical connection in a socket near the engine block that can corrode and create problems. To access this connector you have to disassemble the air filter box. Unfortunately not much help but the best I can do now.
Thanks I will check that out.
 

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Dealer near me had a latter model Gold Wing in for mice damage repair, Mice got in under the seat and made a mess of things.
Did you ever check to see if you have fuel pressure? If it has been 15 years or more since bike has been ridden, fuel pressure regulater valve might be gummed up.
Also, you are going to have to check the frame welds over with a fine tooth comb. 2003 Gold Wings had enough frame weld problems without taking a front end whack.
gumbyredd
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Dealer near me had a latter model Gold Wing in for mice damage repair, Mice got in under the seat and made a mess of things.
Did you ever check to see if you have fuel pressure? If it has been 15 years or more since bike has been ridden, fuel pressure regulater valve might be gummed up.
Also, you are going to have to check the frame welds over with a fine tooth comb. 2003 Gold Wings had enough frame weld problems without taking a front end whack.
gumbyredd
The bike has no seat or any plastic on so I do not see any bad wiring. I will check the fuel pressure regulater.
 

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The bike has no seat or any plastic on so I do not see any bad wiring. I will check the fuel pressure regulater.
So with no plastic on the bike.
How are you making sure the BAS on back of right headlight, is in the up right position so the ECM gets the ground signal to allow the bike to start?.

The bike will crank , but will never start unless the BAS loop is verified. (BAS= Bank Angle Sensor)

I suggest.
You unplug the BAS, and use a jumper on the two outside wires. Wire colors are "Red w/white stripe- Green w/ silver dashes"
On the three wire green connector. coming out of the bike harness.

I use this jumper method. to start a bike after engine work, (Without front Cowls on)
 

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1998 GL1500 Asp and 2017 GL1800 4AC
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The bike has no seat or any plastic on so I do not see any bad wiring. I will check the fuel pressure regulater.
If there is no plastic on the bike, then the bank angle sensor is not plugged in and it will not start.
 

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The bike has no seat or any plastic on so I do not see any bad wiring. I will check the fuel pressure regulater.
So with no plastic on the bike.
How are you making sure the BAS on back of right headlight, is in the up right position so the ECM gets the ground signal to allow the bike to start?.

The bike will crank , but will never start unless the BAS loop is verified. (BAS= Bank Angle Sensor)

I suggest.
You unplug the BAS, and use a jumper on the two outside wires. Wire colors are "Red w/white stripe- Green w/ silver dashes"
On the three wire green connector. coming out of the bike harness.

I use this jumper method. to start a bike after engine work, (Without front Cowls on)
Thanks for correcting me, I was thinking it wouldn't crank if the BAS was out. I could swear when I dropped my 08 it wouldn't crank until I cycled the key. Haven't dropped my '10 yet (knock wood) even though I have had it a lot longer, but less miles.
 

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Thanks for correcting me, I was thinking it wouldn't crank if the BAS was out. I could swear when I dropped my 08 it wouldn't crank until I cycled the key. Haven't dropped my '10 yet (knock wood) even though I have had it a lot longer, but less miles.
You are correct. If the bike is tipped over. The BAS Pendulum will kill the bike. (When it swings to one side or the other, shutting off the engine)
Once righted, you must cycle the ignition in order for a restart.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So with no plastic on the bike.
How are you making sure the BAS on back of right headlight, is in the up right position so the ECM gets the ground signal to allow the bike to start?.

The bike will crank , but will never start unless the BAS loop is verified. (BAS= Bank Angle Sensor)

I suggest.
You unplug the BAS, and use a jumper on the two outside wires. Wire colors are "Red w/white stripe- Green w/ silver dashes"
On the three wire green connector. coming out of the bike harness.

I use this jumper method. to start a bike after engine work, (Without front Cowls on)
Thanks I will try that
 

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You are correct. If the bike is tipped over. The BAS Pendulum will kill the bike. (When it swings to one side or the other, shutting off the engine)
Once righted, you must cycle the ignition in order for a restart.
Yes I know that, what I am saying is it would not crank until the key was cycled.
 

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Yes I know that, what I am saying is it would not crank until the key was cycled.
The point you missed-
That is what Honda designed it to do!

A safety feature.
It avoids anyone accidentally, pushing the Start button when the bike is being picked up.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The point you missed-
That is what Honda designed it to do!

A safety feature.
It avoids anyone accidentally, pushing the Start button when the bike is being picked up.
The BAS checked out it is working, checked 2 others metered out good.
 

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Lets back up here to the beginning.
So I/we don't have to ask 20 questions.

In great detail tell us how you came about this bike, and what exactly was damaged on it, before you started to work on it.

Post a couple of pictures of the front of the bike, So we can see what is connected at this point?.

Details are very important. in order for us to help you check things step by step.

Questions.
Do you hear the fuel system energize for a few seconds, when you turn the ignition on?

Is the dash installed in the bike?
Do you see a FI Code (Possibly 19 = Pulse Generator)


Here is the FI (Fault Indicator) code list.


Here is the list FI Codes:

If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code.

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms .Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM

0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM

1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor

7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor

8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor

9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor

10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor

11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor

12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector

13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector

14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector

16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector

17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector

18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor

19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator

21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor

22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor

23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor

24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor

25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor

26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve

33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally

41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch
 

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The point you missed-
That is what Honda designed it to do!

A safety feature.
It avoids anyone accidentally, pushing the Start button when the bike is being picked up.
The point you missed is I know what it does. I'm just saying according to the ETM it should crank but not start if the BAS is tripped but it doesn't crank, which you are agreeing with.
 

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The point you missed is I know what it does. I'm just saying according to the ETM it should crank but not start if the BAS is tripped but it doesn't crank, which you are agreeing with.
Correcting myself.

When the bike is tipped over.
The BAS kills the ground to the relay for the ECM
The bike Will CRANK, after the BAS is tripped.(If the ign is left on)
The purpose of cycling the ignition is to restore the BAS Ground loop through the relay to the ECM. (Once you stand the bike back up)
Then the bike will start.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Lets back up here to the beginning.
So I/we don't have to ask 20 questions.

In great detail tell us how you came about this bike, and what exactly was damaged on it, before you started to work on it.

Post a couple of pictures of the front of the bike, So we can see what is connected at this point?.

Details are very important. in order for us to help you check things step by step.

Questions.
Do you hear the fuel system energize for a few seconds, when you turn the ignition on?

Is the dash installed in the bike?
Do you see a FI Code (Possibly 19 = Pulse Generator)


Here is the FI (Fault Indicator) code list.


Here is the list FI Codes:

If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code.

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms .Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM

0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM

1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor

7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor

8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor

9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor

10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor

11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor

12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector

13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector

14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector

16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector

17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector

18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor

19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator

21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor

22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor

23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor

24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor

25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor

26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve

33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally

41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch
I am having a mechanic come over tomorrow and we will check all of these things. Thanks I really appreciate all of your help. THANKS again
 

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I am having a mechanic come over tomorrow and we will check all of these things. Thanks I really appreciate all of your help. THANKS again
When you turn on the key, do you see the FI light come on for about 2 seconds then go out? If you do see it, then do you hear the fuel pump run while it’s on? If not, there’s an issue with the BAS system or the FI/Ignition relay. If you turn on the cruise control and the key, do you see the orange cruise light come on?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
When you turn on the key, do you see the FI light come on for about 2 seconds then go out? If you do see it, then do you hear the fuel pump run while it’s on? If not, there’s an issue with the BAS system or the FI/Ignition relay. If you turn on the cruise control and the key, do you see the orange cruise light come on?
The F1 light comes on for about 2 seconds then goes out Fuel pump runs, The mechanic will be back Thursday. Will check then Thanks
 
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