[Treetrans]

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Hey their !!!! This could be easy or could be a long one. I have almost finished the restoration of the 78 GL1000. took off fairing bags found head light ,turns the silly hard to find turn signal mounts for forks and tail light for 78. polished up forks, and covers as shown in other posts and its starting to look reel nice, painted engine, touched up frame as needed.
The important stuff ,Randalls carb kit went pretty good has 76 carbs on it for some reason jetting was right I will tweak as needed later.
Has a Dyna Electrionic ingnition..
Throttle cables replaced
timing belts
oil , filters
Had mouse chewed wiring in headlight bucket and a four prong trailer light plug to replace the three yellows from stator. a bypass fuse on the wishbone and lots of scotch block blue splicers from the bags and faring so I found a used clean wiring harness for the whole bike and detailed it in with GL shop manual routing guide and so on Diodes check out good ...
Rebuilt Brake masters cleaned calipers replaced front two as I broke a bleeder.
Found and replace left side muffler and is ok for now..
Re covered the vinyl false tank lid Hobby lobby sells the vinyl 15.00 and a can of spray on rubber cement.
So you can see I have been busy. and now I want to hear it run. Turn key and lights work, turns flash slowly and the tank gauges don't seem to even jiggle and their is no spark and it won't turn over when I hit the start button. Fuses all good in box The resister on the coils gets hotter than a fire cracker, and when I hit the start button the headlight dims but doesn't click the solenoid. The battery is at 13.45 when I start trying but drops below 12v later. I had the solenoid out and it clicks when I tested it to a battery. So I re installed and I made a new cable to the battery and rewired a new 30 amp fuse holder in place of wishbone.
The starter turns over well when I jump from my truck to battery ground and then straight to the starter with jumper cables very sparky , but will not turn with the switch even while jumped.
While turning it over and no start I poked around the coils with a test light and burnt my finger on the resistor. but power still went threw it. Dyna is wired to accessory as it was when I got it and powered up.. Checked has fuel in the carb bowls, I cleaned the engine ground to the battery. Then while turning it over at the starter , the 30amp fuse popped and I stopped I have colored wiring diagrams and I seems I have all wired right. So now I am at the losing sleep reading the shop manual trying to grab a idea that might be causing this.

Sorry for the long winded post I figure you who are interested will want to know all the details, and I will look forward to your suggestions.

 

[ding dong]

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While we are diagnosing this problem let me give a warning.Don't leave the ignition on for extended periods you will burn up your coils. Only run the starterin short bursts. Probably why the fus blew. You will burn up the starter. Probably why the fuse blew. Also it is normal for the ballist resistor to run hot.

 

[Treetrans]

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Thanks I don't want to cause more issues. I am going out to start cleaning all the grounds and connections on the start circuit and see where I get.

 

[ding dong]

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Okay! Since you have been repairing the wiring The first thing I would suspect is a mistake somewhere. Loose wire or wire routed incorrectly. ??? First thing to check is if you are getting power to the solenoid when you press the start button. If you are then the problem most likely is the solenoid. If not then you need to check voltages at ignition switch and start switch. Other problems could be: Ignition switch, start button, Neutral switch, neutral diode open. Really nothing else there to cause your problem.

 

[Treetrans]

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I agree their are a few circuits that co mingle with the start like the neutral safety and oil pressure and such so I will check list your ideas and update.

 

[Treetrans]

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Ok when I hit the start button i got dimming of lights off on the headlight. I stuck a test light in the small plug on y/g wire that feeds the solenoid at the battery from the switch and it would just have a dim light. A multimeter shows 4.9 volts low and not enough to trigger the solenoid. So I pulled off the y/r wire and touched it direct to battery + and bingo starter and solenoid kicked over like normal. Tracing the y/r back to plug junction box I see it upper left plug and when I push start button that wire gets blazing hot up their. I tested the diode that it runs into and ok. It then goes to the ballast resistor on the coils.It is so hot when I push start button it would burn skin to the bone . I cleaned the ground attached to the frame their and noticed the Ballast resister coiled on the side of the porcelain might be touching a mounting bolt so I straightened it up and away and no change. Still no spark. I have Dyna and randakks tech tips says the ballast resistor is different than stock with more resistance.

 

[ding dong]

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Your problem is probably that the ballist resistor isn't being cut out of the start circuit. When the start button is pressed the ballist resistor is bypassed and out of the circuit. Trace your wiring.

 

[Treetrans]

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Hi so I began before your last message cleaning all connections.Checking the power to the ignition from the ignition from the stop to the stop ,from the start button to , and the ballast resister and out at 1.6 as down from 3ohms for the electronic ignition as per Randaks tech sheet.I tried it again and it this time melted the y/r wire from the plug to the diode. So since this was the replacement wiring harness and it has problems I pulled the whole thing out and began putting in the original . several hours later after soldering the nice joints in on the stator plug and routing well for tail lights repairing the two or three wires in the head light why I replaced harness in the first place. I also borrowed a expensive multimeter and checked coils and ballast resister to randakks specs on his tech section, all good. re installed battery and hit the button and............................. Bam the 30 amp blew!! Sh----t!!! Then to see your suggestion DingDong ,I see on the wiring Diagram the start button cancels the headlight while starting but applies power to the diode that melted and threw to ballast and first splits off a second wire at plug junction box y/r to the soleinoid thats getting hot. So many hours down and stiil broke.

 

[Treetrans]

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I am using a battery that is four years old and my friend a cycle restoration guy took it out of his bike.and kept it on a battery maintainer for some time and gave it to me. Full charge its up to 12.75 or so but it drops charge fast when I have this draw problem and recharge every time I have to test. Does anybody think low cranking amps output could cause my problem or bad brushes on the starter. I did say yesterday that the starter and solenoid acted perfect when touched the y/r to battery terminal direct. I don't know if a battery can charge up sufficiently but it might draw down quickly without reserve or mabye my short is pulling it down fast.

 

[Treetrans]

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Ok gents thanks for all the imput , kept me in the garage for four days but we have the end in sight. ..
This morning I decided to just go ahead and pull the right hand throttle and start button for a good look . So the kill switch wire had a pinch against the handle bar. It was showing copper and all. good solid short .So after fixing that It still was not starting and as I would turn the keyed ignition switch on,, the starter would begin turning over.
I pulled off each of the plugs a the wire junction box until that stopped happening an the one plug causing the problem was the coil plug...
So I pulled the coils, I had already tested them across cap to cap all good and the ballast resister tested out good but I had to see the wires.. Well you got it a big pinch in the power wire to primary side was against the frame on the front side out of view and shorting the whole rig out. So I cut out the pinch soldered the wire and insulated it. Turned the key hit the start button and instantaneously it started for the first time since I began restoration.. The only thing was the starter did not turn off so I pulled the solenoid wire connection apart quickly and let it run.. Ran pretty good first time after Randaks carb kit. It did start to pop at idle occasionally. I will probably nip the coil wires off a bit at the ends and re screw the plug caps back on and refresh the connection.
So one more issue is that the solenoid doesn' t shut down after start so I will have some more to do.. but was awesome to hear it run.. I still haven't even ridden it.

Thanks for all the help I will still keep you all posted,, almost their.. Treetrans!!

 

[Treetrans]

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Ok were done the reason the solenoid wasn't kicking out was the diode had evidently blown with all the shorts prior . I had another and working now .
so I will start getting all the plastic buffed and get the registration and see what the old girl can do. Thanks again for the advise. Treetrans

 

[Treetrans]

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Just in case you all were interested, Thanks again for the guidance I thought I would post a picture of the beast in question. Oh ya it started ran great but is weeping gas from the fuel pump so that's the next .. First pic is what I bought..

 

[wda-83wing]

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all i see are 3 red Xs ?

 

[Treetrans]

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Well the pictures are huge I don't know how to shrink them and they are showing up on my preview but I have to slide over to center as they are such big pictures.