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Discussion Starter #41
Like I said. I'm not to familiar with these goldwing/aspencade bikes. This is my first project at my work. Apparently no one else wanted to tackle this swap...haha. give to the new guy. Guess this is my trial.. haha.
I do appreciate your guys help.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Based on what I see in the post # 7....

It started life as a 1991 - 1994 Interstate. There are several "tell tale" items I see.

Since it has the "white gauges" and he says it is a 1998, I will assume it possibly has a 1998 Aspencade or SE engine. Possibly the SE since it has the SE emblem.

Some questions:

How much was changed (electrically) during the engine swap....?? Was the ECM changed....?? How much of the starting/ignition circuit was changed...??i

Definitely the instrument cluster has been changed to a 1998 or 1999.

He says it is cranking. A 1991 - 1994 will crank with the Kill switch OFF. A 1997 and later will not crank with the Kill switch OFF.

So we don't know if the Kill switch is good or bad....!! Or if the ignition relay is good or bad...!!

Difficult to troubleshoot this without more information.....!!!
The only thing electrically that I put on new motor was the pulse gene. All other wiring is on bike. It does crank with kill switch in both off and run positions. I did open it up and metered in all positions, and reads as it should by the meter. Ecm is the same from old motor. I would think it would have to be reflashed being the same exact motor. The BAS was unplugged and looks like it is jumped for bypass. I did plug it in just for shits and giggles, but nothing changed. I found the clutch safety switch is bad and have the wires jumped so I could crank it by start button and not jumping the solenoids.
I also just realized when I turn the key on. The fuel pump doesn't seem to get power for that initial squirt. The pump reads good when metered.
 

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I also just realized when I turn the key on. The fuel pump doesn't seem to get power for that initial squirt. The pump reads good when metered.
an ohmmeter on the fuel pump proves nothing.
you must jumper +12V to the 'B' terminal and have a hose connected to the pump outlet, raise the hose up 2 ft and measure how much fuel is pumped into a container....

I forget the exact amount required, but it must be a good flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
The only thing electrically that I put on new motor was the pulse gene. All other wiring is on bike. It does crank with kill switch in both off and run positions. I did open it up and metered in all positions, and reads as it should by the meter. Ecm is the same from old motor. I would think it would have to be reflashed being the same exact motor. The BAS was unplugged and looks like it is jumped for bypass. I did plug it in just for shits and giggles, but nothing changed. I found the clutch safety switch is bad and have the wires jumped so I could crank it by start button and not jumping the solenoids.
I also just realized when I turn the key on. The fuel pump doesn't seem to get power for that initial squirt. The pump reads good when metered.
Also. I am getting power to fuel pump
an ohmmeter on the fuel pump proves nothing.
you must jumper +12V to the 'B' terminal and have a hose connected to the pump outlet, raise the hose up 2 ft and measure how much fuel is pumped into a container....

I forget the exact amount required, but it must be a good flow.
Ok. I jumped the terminal B . I didn't measure, but she squirted a pretty good distance across the shop.
 

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The only thing electrically that I put on new motor was the pulse gene. All other wiring is on bike. Ecm is the same from old motor.
The engine will not run if pulse generators are reversed. PG with blue and white wire is the lower one and you should confirm it is, along with connector to ECM is fully pushed in and that the previously mentioned white 4 wire coil connector is fully seated.
 

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The only thing electrically that I put on new motor was the pulse gene. All other wiring is on bike. It does crank with kill switch in both off and run positions. I did open it up and metered in all positions, and reads as it should by the meter. Ecm is the same from old motor. I would think it would have to be reflashed being the same exact motor. The BAS was unplugged and looks like it is jumped for bypass. I did plug it in just for shits and giggles, but nothing changed. I found the clutch safety switch is bad and have the wires jumped so I could crank it by start button and not jumping the solenoids.
I also just realized when I turn the key on. The fuel pump doesn't seem to get power for that initial squirt. The pump reads good when metered.
If it is neutral it should crank and start even without the clutch switch. Do you have a factory service manual? The factory wiring diagram would at least be a start. However, it sure sounds like this trike was assembled from whatever parts were handy. Kinda like that Johnny Cash song. So you have your work cut out, to make everything work as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
We ordered the right side control for cruise etc which explains the 2 unused terminal blocks on the harness. Gonna be 2 weeks before that get here at the shop. Boss had me pull it off the lift and move on to the next bike. I will however make sure pulses are in the proper spot.
I will update when the parts get here and installed. Thanks again for al yalls help
 

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Mouse 72......

The attached docs. might help.....!!

Your new right switch cluster will have a Red connector and a Brown connector.

It will have two wires for the brake light switch and two wires for the cruise control switch.

Oh.....BTW......

Did you order the Brake/Cruise switch....???

Brake/Cruise Switch 35340-MCA-000 1988 - 2000
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Mouse 72......

The attached docs. might help.....!!

Your new right switch cluster will have a Red connector and a Brown connector.

It will have two wires for the brake light switch and two wires for the cruise control switch.

Oh.....BTW......

Did you order the Brake/Cruise switch....???

Brake/Cruise Switch 35340-MCA-000 1988 - 2000
Thank you for that. Much appreciated.
By the looks of the pn# it what we ordered from Honda
 

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My 94 would crank with the kill switch in the off position. I dont know what that switch connects too. Mine would also not start til I released the starter button. No one could tell me why. I would just let it crank for 5-10 seconds and release the button and it would fire. I dont know if this helps.
 

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It will start as you release the start button due to the PG's needing more juice. This thread by Erdeniz is a great explanation;
 

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My 94 would crank with the kill switch in the off position. I dont know what that switch connects too. Mine would also not start til I released the starter button. No one could tell me why. I would just let it crank for 5-10 seconds and release the button and it would fire. I dont know if this helps.
The Kill switch receives "input power" from the Ignition Relay.

Run position = Power to the ECM and the three Ignition Coils..

Off position = No power to the ECM and Ignition Coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
So. My rightside control switch showed up.
I installed. Guess what. Still no spark.
I have voltage going to coils and fuelpump.
Switch seems to work as it should.
As for reverse light. I said it would come on and stay. It now doesnt stay lit which is good.
Someone here said cruise on should stay lit. That doesnt stay lit unless i have the button in the on position. It doesnt crank with kill switch in off position now. Thats good.
I cant see all three coils being bad at the same time...arg. happy Monday all
 

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So. My rightside control switch showed up.
I installed. Guess what. Still no spark.
I have voltage going to coils and fuelpump.
Switch seems to work as it should.
As for reverse light. I said it would come on and stay. It now doesnt stay lit which is good.
Someone here said cruise on should stay lit. That doesnt stay lit unless i have the button in the on position. It doesnt crank with kill switch in off position now. Thats good.
I cant see all three coils being bad at the same time...arg. happy Monday all
Just to recap......

1. Appears it cranks with the Kill switch in the "run" position. (The starting circuit is working)

2. You have voltage going to all three ignition coils. (Good)

3. You have voltage going to the "fuel pump". (Good)

4. Cruise "ON" light only illuminated when the cruise switch turned ON. (Good)

5. Reverse light NOT illuminated. (Good)

Some Possibilities:

1. Have you checked the Pulse generators...???

C63 white “4-pin” connector located above the right fan shroud.

White/yellow and yellow wires (400 – 500 ohms).

White/blue and blue wires (400 – 500 ohms).

2. Do you have a "signal" from the ECM to the Ignition Coils....???
 

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So. My rightside control switch showed up.
I installed. Guess what. Still no spark.
The right side control was not supposed to be a fix for the no spark. The original control with kill switch was good sending power to the ECM and presumably it did run at some point with that set-up. Check the pulse generators for proper placement, blue/white lower or it will not run. Did the engine run when it came into your shop?
My stall has a DT466 and an Allison on the floor, wanna trade? :whistle:
 
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Discussion Starter #58
Just to recap......

1. Appears it cranks with the Kill switch in the "run" position. (The starting circuit is working)

2. You have voltage going to all three ignition coils. (Good)

3. You have voltage going to the "fuel pump". (Good)

4. Cruise "ON" light only illuminated when the cruise switch turned ON. (Good)

5. Reverse light NOT illuminated. (Good)

Some Possibilities:

1. Have you checked the Pulse generators...???

C63 white “4-pin” connector located above the right fan shroud.

White/yellow and yellow wires (400 – 500 ohms).

White/blue and blue wires (400 – 500 ohms).

2. Do you have a "signal" from the ECM to the Ignition Coils....???
Yep. Have voltage from ecm to terminal block. Have voltage on other block, and voltage to the coils.
Getting about .430 ohms on PGs
 

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With your test light back probe Yel/Blu then Yel/Red then Yel/White. That will be terminals number 1, 2, and 3 on the ECM plug. Test light alligator clip to battery positive then probe as described. When you crank the engine. You should see the test light flash, Does it?
 
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