I guess you're not working on what I thought, never mind,
No spark
I have a 1986 gl 1200A. I have no spark on the blue-yellow and yellow-blue wires on connectors going to the ignition coil. I have voltage on the blk-white wire. I have continuity up to the wires connecting to ignition coils. My pulse generator tested 304 and 305 ohms. I have brand new ignition coil, coil wires, ignition caps and spark plugs. I even bought a brand new Ignition Control Unit (ICU). Still no spark. What am I missing here? Please help!
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
I truly need everybody's opinion here. Your thought might be the solution to my bike's problem. I have already spent a lot of money to make this bike work. I'm desperate.I guess you're not working on what I thought, never mind,
Have you checked the voltage to the coils B/W wire while cranking? Connected of course. Could be there is voltage when static and a bad connection so it's not enough to actually fire the coils. Kill switch is a common problem.
On my '86 Aspencade the digital tach will try to show an rpm when trying to start, analog you may not see that. I'm wondering if the problem is with the bikes 'ground' system. The signal you're looking for is a ground on the control wires (yellow / blue). That signal has to go to 'ground' for the coil to "fire". The RPM signal is on one of the coils and the 'on/off' function creates a pulse that the digital tach translates to rpm. The other coil signal (on/off) turns on the fuel pump relay. You could test that relay to see if it's turning 'on', which you need fuel to run, could remove the pump discharge hose and verify that function.
May need to verify that the "grounds" are good, easiest done by following the factory Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.
I'm not sure but it seems like I remember someone finding corrosion between the coil and bike frame mounting point, but that may have been a different model of Wing.
Corrosion of 'ground' connections will make 'grounds' not function as designed.
Do both of your horns work?
May need to verify that the "grounds" are good, easiest done by following the factory Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.
I'm not sure but it seems like I remember someone finding corrosion between the coil and bike frame mounting point, but that may have been a different model of Wing.
Corrosion of 'ground' connections will make 'grounds' not function as designed.
Do both of your horns work?
My bike has only one horn. I bought it that way. The horn now works after I've found a break on white green wire. The main ground is clean. The other ground at the left near the steering post is clean as well. I think it's called ground 102 by the manual. I'll verify if the fuel pump is pumping gas when I gets home.On my '86 Aspencade the digital tach will try to show an rpm when trying to start, analog you may not see that. I'm wondering if the problem is with the bikes 'ground' system. The signal you're looking for is a ground on the control wires (yellow / blue). That signal has to go to 'ground' for the coil to "fire". The RPM signal is on one of the coils and the 'on/off' function creates a pulse that the digital tach translates to rpm. The other coil signal (on/off) turns on the fuel pump relay. You could test that relay to see if it's turning 'on', which you need fuel to run, could remove the pump discharge hose and verify that function.
May need to verify that the "grounds" are good, easiest done by following the factory Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.
I'm not sure but it seems like I remember someone finding corrosion between the coil and bike frame mounting point, but that may have been a different model of Wing.
Corrosion of 'ground' connections will make 'grounds' not function as designed.
Do both of your horns work?
My bike has only one horn. I bought it that way. The horn now works after I've found a break on white green wire. The main ground is clean. The other ground at the left near the steering post is clean as well. I think it's called ground 102 by the manual. I'll verify if the fuel pump is pumping gas when I gets home.
I have no pulse on the yel/blu wire. The blu/yel wire does not pulse either to send on/off signal to the fuel pump hence the fuel pump is dead. I have a good ground on the fuel pump.On my '86 Aspencade the digital tach will try to show an rpm when trying to start, analog you may not see that. I'm wondering if the problem is with the bikes 'ground' system. The signal you're looking for is a ground on the control wires (yellow / blue). That signal has to go to 'ground' for the coil to "fire". The RPM signal is on one of the coils and the 'on/off' function creates a pulse that the digital tach translates to rpm. The other coil signal (on/off) turns on the fuel pump relay. You could test that relay to see if it's turning 'on', which you need fuel to run, could remove the pump discharge hose and verify that function.
May need to verify that the "grounds" are good, easiest done by following the factory Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.
I'm not sure but it seems like I remember someone finding corrosion between the coil and bike frame mounting point, but that may have been a different model of Wing.
Corrosion of 'ground' connections will make 'grounds' not function as designed.
Do both of your horns work?
When switched to on position, the voltage is 11.48 volts. When I tested for cranking voltage at the blk/w wire, it registered 7.78 volts only. What does this voltage mean?
That is too low. Something is causing a voltage drop. Work your way back from the coils to the battery and see where the voltage changes.
I measured voltage on blk/w wire from connector 78 (red connector on right side of ICU) and connector 121 ( white connector on left of ICU). The voltage reads 7.41 volts. Since it's the same blk/w wire, there should be no voltage drop here ideally. So this could be the problem, a bad blk/w wire causing big voltage drop. I'm I right? Now, what shall I do to circumvent this bad wire?
It may be the kill switch, work it off & on and see if the voltage changes. What I would do is install a relay.I measured voltage on blk/w wire from connector 78 (red connector on right side of ICU) and connector 121 ( white connector on left of ICU). The voltage reads 7.41 volts. Since it's the same blk/w wire, there should be no voltage drop here ideally. So this could be the problem, a bad blk/w wire causing big voltage drop. I'm I right? Now, what shall I do to circumvent this bad wire?
Could be any of the switches in the line giving high resistance contact
I by passed the blk/w from connector 78 to 121. The battery voltage was 12.58 v. I put one end of the test light on the negative of the battery and the other end to the blu/y wire. When I cranked the engine, the test light did not pulse. I did the same to the yel/blu wire. No pulse either. The cranking voltage when measured was 8.57 volts.
That's not enough, it probably needs 10.5 volts to fire. 12.58 volts is a battery in need of charging.The cranking voltage when measured was 8.57 volts.
Where should I look to find the possible cause of these voltage drop?
Charge up the battery first.
Grab a meter and the wiring diagram. Start at the battery and work your way to the load, measuring at the points along the way. Or start at the load and work your way towards the battery, your choice.
Grab a meter and the wiring diagram. Start at the battery and work your way to the load, measuring at the points along the way. Or start at the load and work your way towards the battery, your choice.
If you were trying to get a test light to pulse on the pulse coils it wont work as they only give millivolts, a bigital meter might show a varying voltage
Yes, a test light will pulse, it a direct ground signal. You do have to connect the test lead to positive. What's a bigital meter?If you were trying to get a test light to pulse on the pulse coils it wont work as they only give millivolts, a bigital meter might show a varying voltage
Digital multi meter, i found an analogue meter needle did not move but a dmm showed varying numbers on mV scale. I am talking about measuring across the pulse coil leads when disconected, every time the trigger wheel passes a coil a small voltage is generated , read by ecu and fires coil
I misread what you wrote before. You are correct but in this case I think the pulse rotor is not turning so there won't be any voltage reading but he was testing the wires between the ignition unit and the coils where there should be a pulse readable with a test light.Digital multi meter, i found an analogue meter needle did not move but a dmm showed varying numbers on mV scale. I am talking about measuring across the pulse coil leads when disconected, every time the trigger wheel passes a coil a small voltage is generated , read by ecu and fires coil
I misread too, i took the colours quoted as the pulse coils not the ht coils, we all get there eventually.
Long distance electrical diagnosis is always a bugger!
I wonder why Honda changed the position of the pulsers during the 1200 run.
Long distance electrical diagnosis is always a bugger!
I wonder why Honda changed the position of the pulsers during the 1200 run.
I guess it took them a while to realize they didn't need the part adapted from the 1100 on the back of the engine when it would be simpler to put them at the front.I misread too, i took the colours quoted as the pulse coils not the ht coils, we all get there eventually.
Long distance electrical diagnosis is always a bugger!
I wonder why Honda changed the position of the pulsers during the 1200 run.
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
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