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I did the big thunder POW poker run in Chicago this weekend. Great time by the way.



So.. driving from saint louis, MO to Chicago, IL was about 270 miles, the run itself was about 80 miles and another 150 miles riding around visiting people I know in Chicago, and then another 270 back to saint louis. averaged about 800 miles round trip in 3 days.



when I got back to ST,Louis today... I noticed a rattling / ticking noise I have never heard before.. so I finished riding it home about 5 miles from the interstate exit.



I listened closely and noticed it went away at low idle but get it between 2k and up the noise got louder and worse sounding.



I shut her down and checked the oil window and could not see any oil in the window, I got out my screw driver and twisted the slot to clear off my glass and still did not see any oil!



OMG... I was about to cry because i did not know how long I have been driving it without oil.



It took about a full quart of oil to bring it back into the window about a 1/4 way up the window.



The noise has left and is not there now...



The bike does not leak or smoke while run or riding just in the morning for about 60 seconds upon 1st start up and then goes away..



Where could the oil have gone? The bike runs pristine and is very clean no signs of oil leaks and the radiator has no traces of oil.



do these older gl1100 models naturally burn off a little oil slowly over time?



Last oil change was about 10,000 miles ago, from what the seller told me and I should have changed it by no so that much is my fault.



any possibility I may have damaged something?



1983 GL1100i / 63,700 miles
 

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Wow i don't want to sound critical but I think one should change the oil in any new to you veicle as soon as you purchase it? Also you have gone 10,,000 miles only using a quart of oil thats good. I think a wing should not use any oil unless diven hard . I should think you haven't done any serious damage but get that oil changed.

Wilf
 

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oh yeah - i've got in the shop now getting checked and oil changed and tires.

that scared the heck outta me cause i've only owned her for about 3 months.

I was just in such a hurry to get her on 1 long ride.. and i had peeped into the oil window before the long ride and it was showing about 1/2 way in the window. I figured I was good.
 

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William_86 wrote:
just wondering,did you check the oil level before starting your trip?
Ihad peeped into the oil window before the long ride and it was showing about 1/2 way in the window. I figured I was good
 

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It's not unusual to 'loose' oil over time in any vehicle. Oil just gets worn out, plain and simple especially if it's the regular mineral version. Mineral oil starts to break down within 500 miles and starts to turn brown, usually from being contaminated by heat, blowby around the pistons and rings and from old oil and sludge within the crankcase itself.
So get a new filter and change the oil as soon as you can, your bike will thank you for it!
 

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On these old 1100's you want to change the oil every 3000 miles. Get the dipstick kit from J C Whitney and never worry about that itty bitty window again.
 

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mineral oil is exactly what it is because he gave me a 1/2 gal of Honda brand mineral oil and told me that is what he has used in it from 1998 till I bought it in July of 09.

I had always used valvoline motorcycle 20w - 50w oil in my v-star. i never knew anything about mineral oil until I bought this bike.

I always thought mineral oil was something the old folks rubbed on thier legs to moisturize...lol
 

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60 seconds X 100 morning start-ups = ?



No pun intended....
 

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I only have time to ride it once per week, weather permitting, actually in the last 3 months I've ridden it less than 10 times and that includes the long distanced run this weekend.

I do start it and run it for about 15 mins 2 times a week.

well anyway all puns aside.. I was wanting to hear from those that can give constructive and inormational feedback on this topic.

Thanks to all those that replied in a civil manner, your input has been greatly appreciated it seems that I have NOT done any known damage and I've learned a lesson here.. lucky me.

Close topic
 

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Glad I could help... :)
 

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I'm gonna make a confession that will hopefully re-assure you, a bit. On my original 1976 Wing (which I bought barely used with 2k miles in 1977), I managed to run it until the idiot light came on! I had just run over 1200 miles, non-stop, at high speed, without, of course, checking the oil. That's yet ANOTHER experience I hope to never repeat.

There's a REASON they call it an "idiot light". By the time that happens, you are WELL over a quart low- you're basically down to 2-1/2 quarts, out of 4. I did discover, immediately, that if you get the revs up, they oil light goes back out, as it's pumping enough through the system.

I came off the freeway (I-10? is it?) north of Lake Pontchartrain in eastern Louisiana, rolled straight to a gas station, and added a quart.

That was at about 40K miles on my Wing. It was still running great, nearly 100K later, when I (also stupidly) destroyed it, in a crash. Hey....I was a college kid. I was SUPPOSED to be young and stupid, it was in the manual!

My point is- it's one helluva durable motor, and you have probably done it no serious damage. Ride, and be happy.

And yes, check your oil at the beginning of a big ride, and at least every 1500 miles thereafter. I've never had the "dipstick" add on, but it sounds like a great idea, to me...those little windows basically suck, and definitely require the bike to be on the center stand, which is a major workout, if it is loaded for touring.

If you looked at the window, when it was on the side stand (possibly?) then it was ALREADY low, when you started. The mark (as viewed when it's on the center stand) is about 2/3rds of the way up. :waving:
 

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goldie4ever wrote:
I do start it and run it for about 15 mins 2 times a week.


That probably does the oil more damage than anything else. 15 minutes is just enough time to create moisture in the oil and cause acid. I never start mine unless I plan to ride it for at least a small amount of time. JMHO
 

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When you change your oil take a look at the filter for metal bits"cooper colored ones" that will give you an idea how much damage you may have done if any.

take care,
Pop's
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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thanks guys - this is a great forum and I really appreciate all of the advice.
 

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I have 3 bikesother thanmy GL. Two of which have custom rotating assemblies. One of the two is street driven (CB900FSS) while the other (CB350F1/4) has a fairly high-dollar amount tied to its assemblyand is a track-only bike...

In comes oil analysis...

I send-out oil samples of each.
Now, I do know what I know, and whatever that may be is based only on the information I've been able to acquire... and oil analysis is part of my ownership of the two bikes above.
It is the best technical info I am able to acquire about the wear status of the engines on each. Takes all guess-work out of opinion.

Admittingly I've never sent a sample out for the GL as its place in my life-of-bikes has yet to require one.I plan on a complete rebuild, but that's another story...

Oil Analysis is inexpensive, and contrary to opinion... factual.

For anyone investing in a bike (new or used) I strongly recommend at least a initial test, and then a follow-up,to give yourself a baselined reference of where you and your bike stand...

http://www.oaitesting.com/index.htm



PS: If you've never done this before, you will likely be surprised, amazed, possibly shocked and certainly thankful that you took this step. Its life from day-one is exposed.
 
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