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Discussion Starter #1
WildWilly,

Yep, your 1988 had two "shoulder type" bolts and the new alternator was not drilled to accept them.

On the OEM alternators, the exciter wire (from the ignition relay) plugged in to the back of the alternator.

The replacement alternator had a wire already permanently connected to the back of the alternator (for the exciter wire).

You either had to do some splicing or remove the left inner faring panel to plug it in.

About the "o-ring", it may be damaged. All you normally need to do is lube them good and carefully slide the alternator in place.

Make sure it slides in straight (not angled).

PS: You should have started a new separate thread for your question....!!


Hoping there is someone in here with an answer for me. My alt packed it in on my 88 gl1500 a few weeks ago. It was the 707. Ordered a aftermarket new one on Amazon. Got it on Sunday and put it in bike. I had to get 2 new bolts because of the difference in hole size and changed the power bolt hook up to the one on my old alt since the new one is so large it doesn't fit in around corner. My question is how do I keep the o ring in place while installing because I am going to have to remove Alt again since I noticed oil leak. So obviously the o ring didn't stay put. Ant advise is good.
 

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Hoping there is someone in here with an answer for me. My alt packed it in on my 88 GL 1500 a few weeks ago. It was the 707. Ordered a aftermarket new one on Amazon. Got it on Sunday and put it in bike. I had to get 2 new bolts because of the difference in hole size and changed the power bolt hook up to the one on my old alt since the new one is so large it doesn't fit in around corner. My question is how do I keep the o ring in place while installing because I am going to have to remove Alt again since I noticed oil leak. So obviously the o ring didn't stay put. Any advise is good.
 

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How did the response get ahead of the question?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It must have come out of groove or it wouldn't leak right? Want it to stay in groove.
It could leak even in the groove if there was a "nick" or "slight tear" or such somewhere on the outer edge of the o-ring.

Doesn't take much for a leak. I seriously doubt it came out of the groove....!
 

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Still fighting with this problem. About to pack in this riding season lol. New o ring and still leaks. Torqued to 22 ft/lbs as specs and broke bolt. Took alt off once again and got broken bolt out and got new ones and put in again. leaked again today. So sitting in garage with cardboard under. I am now doubting my abilities to fix it. Do they need to be torqued? What am I missing?
 

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Not really sure of anything at the moment. I will have to get it off again to see. Nothing leaked before with old alt on. What would cause the input seal to leak it out.
I'm not familiar with the 1500 PCV system but if the crankcase is running a positive pressure somethings going to give.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Still fighting with this problem. About to pack in this riding season lol. New o ring and still leaks. Torqued to 22 ft/lbs as specs and broke bolt. Took alt off once again and got broken bolt out and got new ones and put in again. leaked again today. So sitting in garage with cardboard under. I am now doubting my abilities to fix it. Do they need to be torqued? What am I missing?
Have you checked the calibration of your Torque wrench lately. Could it be out of calibration....??

Torquing to specs (when applied correctly) and using the appropriate bolts should not break bolts.....!!
 

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Still fighting with this problem. About to pack in this riding season lol. New o ring and still leaks. Torqued to 22 ft/lbs as specs and broke bolt. Took alt off once again and got broken bolt out and got new ones and put in again. leaked again today. So sitting in garage with cardboard under. I am now doubting my abilities to fix it. Do they need to be torqued? What am I missing?

22 ft/lbs sounds right, but I'm amazed that your bolt broke while aiming for that spec... I presume that a Higher Torque must have been applied by accident.
Something I've learned is to "Calibrate my hand" prior to using the torque wrench "for real"; Meaning, I use a Vice to clamp onto the end of the torque wrench (or socket that it's holding), and apply force until the Set Torque is attained via the 'Click'... this way I have a rough FEEL for how much effort I should be apply later when installing the whatever into the bike... eg If my "feel" tells me that I'm at or exceeding that amount, then I know to stop and try again; perhaps verifying that the wrench is set correctly.


Also, another recent lesson for me is to use "Hydraulic Assembly Lube" when installing O-rings... It prevents Tearing of the O-rings, as otherwise can occur when assembling stuff in a Dry condition.
 

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I would measure the 2 ends to see if by some chance there’s a difference and question the o ring as to be correct,when you push it in the motor can you tell if it seems tight in the motor or does it try to fall out,it should be snug.
 

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Not really sure of anything at the moment. I will have to get it off again to see. Nothing leaked before with old alt on. What would cause the input seal to leak it out.
Pinched O-ring will do it, faster if dry. I lube with something.
How did the response get ahead of the question?
:rofl:
 
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