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Front brake done. Swingarm,wheel, 47 tooth sprocket. Brakes are set. Sportster shocks. Rearsets cast in stone. Murphy's Law.

I sat on a stool smoking cigarettes and pondering, sipping wine. I need a brake pull-rod, and I need it to pass through the shock. I've done cables here, but it won't work in this installation. I need ridged and I need no flex. Jog around the shock?

I'm afraid it's gonna look stoopid. I have one idea and I don't know if it will work. More stool time. More thinking...
 

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Can you turn that brake bracket over, as it sits now, it bends outward, if you could turn it around, it would bent to the inside and give enough room to run a cable in pretty straight.
 

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Just tie a rope to the arm, throw it over your shoulder and tie it to something on the other side of the bike, lean forward and you stop, the harder you lean the harder you stop and the harder you stop the harder you lean into it and so on.
:cheesygrin:

Really I think jobe05 nailed it.
 

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Will it still work if you pivot it down below the shock or swingarm instead, it should as it is just a simple cam and doesnt care which direction it rotates. as long as the torque arm is at least 90 degrees from the pivot arm. I will go out and look through my boxes of BSA parts and see if I can figure out how I mounted mine all those years ago. I will get back to you soon
 

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Triumph had this same kinda deal -- the shocks were setup with a thin lower mounting profile (shorter shock body and spring than what you'ge got there)...

Any thought's on turning using a bellcrank and turing the elver 180* from where it is (making the setup a "pull" brake that could be run with a fat cable?
 

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Jobe5 I looked into your idea earlier. Unfortunately the rod would foul the chainguard, good suggestion though.
Roadrogue, I had tried your idea earlier only to find that the lever clevis would hit the axle nut. That was loosely fitted though and not fully explored. Today I did just that with everything tight and found that I had about 1/16" of clearance from the crown of the axle nut to the lever clevis. I can easily increase that distance by heating the lever and bending it just a tad. You're right in that the cam doesn't really care from which direction the pull comes from. That is the best solution for this problem. Today I ordered several lengths of stainless rod from onlinemetals.com. It should get here by at least Monday and the mayhem shall continue. Thanks guys!
 

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Had nearly the same problem with a Bultaco Pursang that I had, have you thought about shortening the anchor piece that holds the drum in position which will rotate the lever down a bit and make it more of a straight pull for the rod? What I did was take a piece of rod and bend two off sets in it to where it would clear the shock and it looked very close to being stock with the lever in the up position. I also had a small return spring on the brake pedal to help it come back to the right position. Just my $0.02......
 

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If you shorten the stabilizing bar below the swing-arm then the brake pivot ill rotate clockwise until it clears behind and below the rear of the swing-arm for more adjust-ability.
 
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