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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my '89 GL1500 in January of this year. Cruise didn't work when I got it (Cruise ON light works, but won't 'set'). The handlebar brake switch wasn't working, so I figured that was it. Replaced that, which fixed the brake light issue, but still no cruise. Tore into it tonight and did the diagnostic at:

http://www.goldwingworld.com/pages/cruisecontrol.htm

Everything tested out just fine. Cleaned the connector under the seat that I had taken apart, and put a little diaelectric grease in the connector. Took it out, and still no luck. Tried something by accident though, it will 'set' in fourth gear above 70 mph, but it won't hold (it slowly looses speed and the cruise 'set' light goes out.) Won't set in 5th gear, at least as fast as I was willing to try it.

So, any ideas? I'm thinking vacuum leak to the cruise module, or possibly some strange problem with the speed input to the module. My speedo works fine btw. Or maybe just a bad cruise module?

Thanks for any suggestions - I want to avoid just randomly replacing stuff if possible.
 

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Dirt in the cruise set button?
 

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There has been much written over the years on this site about the air box and all the vacuum lines coming into and out of it. Personally, I let a pro deal with it on my bike, so personal experience I cannot provide. You may however be on the right track.

I'm sure a guru will be along shortly to provide more assistance. Good luck! The cruise is a marvelous and important feature on my bike.
 

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Any possibility you have a trailer hitch & wiring? I had a customers bike once that had the same sort of problem….turned out there was a brake wire shorted that made the cruise control module think that the brakes were on. Fixed the short and the cruise worked great.
 

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New clutch lever and pivot bushing.

Had the same on my '93 when I bought it-got $200.00 extra off. Cost about $50.00, if I remember correctly. It was a long time ago.
 

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I would get access to a service manual and try testing out all the cruise components. I think that the fact it will set above 70 MPH will rule out safety switches for now, although if the bike is wired for a trailer, double checking the brake light wires for a short might not be a bad idea.

Check the air filter for the cruise control, it may be clogged (or entirely gone) and will probably need to be replaced. I would suspect a vacuum leak somewhere, (I'd start with the throttle actuator on the left side of the bike) especially since it loses speed after setting.

I'd get some WD-40 and check for vacuum leaks.
 

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Just some thoughts as I read your post. The fact that it will engage tells me all the switches and wiring are most likely ok. Seeing it won't engage until 70 makes me THINK the module is not seeing a correct speedo siganal as it should engage at about 30. So IF it were just that issue it should hold at 70 then, unless the speedo signal is erratic. Imagine when you are going 70 it thinks you are going 40 then 35 then 30 then 20 and it cuts out because 20 is too slow. So you are saying that at 70 in fourth it engages but slowly loses speed then shuts off? What speed does it shut off? If around 30 I would think the speedo signal might be OK then as that's when it should disengage.
I think the fact that it will not set indicates that it is an electric or electronic problem. Not mechanical or vacuum related. I THINK if all of the mechaical and vacuum associated items were defective the set light should still light if all other things were satisfied. (brake switch, clutch switch, set switch etc.) So then the module would be sending a signal to the mechanical actuators but they couln't perform if they were defective BUT the set light would still illuminate...I think :)
The speedo on these things are weird. The actual speedo is mechaical driven by a cable. That signal is converted to a square wave pulse by a module and the electronic signal is what the cruise uses. So the fact that the speedo works only means the cable and mechanical parts are good.
I think you will get enough input to your post and bang it around enough that you will get it. Good luck....

Edit: If you look at the link below you can see item 27. That is where the mechanical speedo signal is converted to a square wave. I believe it is nothing but a square wave generator. That is a reluctor and pickup. I would make sure you have a regular signal there and at the cruise module to rule that part out.
http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c9914f870023420a3e626/speedometer-tachometer
 

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Take a closer look at the clutch side switch. The micro-switch had worn so that it had up and down movement. You can unplug thew wires from it and take it for a test drive to see if that's the problem. You can do that to each switch one at a time.

Ride Safe,
Rich
 

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OK, I ound some more info. I'm working from a 1991 manual but hopefully yours is the same.
When you remove the speedo, tach assembly there will be a 14 pin black connector and a 20 pin white connector. Don't disconnect them. There will also be a 3 pin white connector right on the back of the gauge panel. That is for the speedo signal. If you connect voltmeter accross light green with black stripe + and green black stripe (neg) you should read battery voltage with key on. Next connect an analog (preferred) voltmeter between the Black with brown + and white with blue (neg) wires. If you turn the speedo input you should see 8 pulses for every rotation of the speedo input. Shoud be 2 to 10 volts.

Edit: keep the panel upright so you don't leak dampening oil from the gauges.
 

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There isn't enough Vaccuum in the bike to work the Cruise effectively so they have a cannister under the plastic on the left side of the bike. Take the bottom plastic that's the one with the big vent in it. the black cannister is mounted on the frame up near the front of the bike. Check the hose connection mine was cracked leaking vaccuum I had enough slack so I just cut the hose off about an 1/2 inch then used a tie wrap to hold it in place presto chango it worked. The other thing is if you have aftermarket handles sometimes they don't make complete contact with the switch so because there are 2 switches there and the top one is for the brakelight you will think it's ok. But check and make sure both switches are being engaged. Truthfully tho it sounds like a vaccuum problem...
 

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There isn't enough Vaccuum in the bike to work the Cruise effectively so they have a cannister under the plastic on the left side of the bike. Take the bottom plastic that's the one with the big vent in it. the black cannister is mounted on the frame up near the front of the bike. Check the hose connection mine was cracked leaking vaccuum I had enough slack so I just cut the hose off about an 1/2 inch then used a tie wrap to hold it in place presto chango it worked. The other thing is if you have aftermarket handles sometimes they don't make complete contact with the switch so because there are 2 switches there and the top one is for the brakelight you will think it's ok. But check and make sure both switches are being engaged. Truthfully tho it sounds like a vaccuum problem...
This is what was going through my head as well. Some cars have a vacuum bladder for the exact same purpose. Older cruise systems use vacuum to operate, like our 1500's. The gradually slowing down problem is my tip off.
 

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There isn't enough Vaccuum in the bike to work the Cruise effectively so they have a cannister under the plastic on the left side of the bike. Take the bottom plastic that's the one with the big vent in it. the black cannister is mounted on the frame up near the front of the bike. Check the hose connection mine was cracked leaking vaccuum I had enough slack so I just cut the hose off about an 1/2 inch then used a tie wrap to hold it in place presto chango it worked. The other thing is if you have aftermarket handles sometimes they don't make complete contact with the switch so because there are 2 switches there and the top one is for the brakelight you will think it's ok. But check and make sure both switches are being engaged. Truthfully tho it sounds like a vaccuum problem...
I understand your logic but the part that bothers me is that the "set" light will not illuminate. That wouldn't be a vacuum accumulator issue???
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update - basically everything I posted was correct. I checked the connector under the seat and all my safety switches are working correctly. Today on a longer stretch of road I tried some things. In 4th gear at or above 75 mph it will set and hold. If I set it just below that (73) it won't hold the speed, and once it gets to 70 (again, in 4th gear only) it shuts off (cruise set light goes off).

I'm very sure it's not the safety switches. I have checked all of them (clutch, front brake, rear brake, throttle, 4th gear (switch) and 5th gear (switch). All work exactly as they should when checked as the link I posted describes. I do have access to a Fluke oscilloscope, but will take awhile before I can get it. In the meantime I'll check the cruise filter and vacuum canister tonight if I have time. I have to replace my sub filter as it came out in powder when I touched it (was intact before I touched it).

Thanks all for the suggestions - we'll get there! I have room for a Vista Cruise but really don't want to go there if I don't have to!
 

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It really does sound like a speedo signal issue. Imagine that the cruise module sees 70 as 30 MPH. Mine is very touchy in that area and might kick out often. At 35 on the cruise (75 for you if the speedo is the issue) mine is rock solid. I attached a couple of tests you can do with a cheapy analog voltmeter. Hope they help. I'm sure there is a typo on the second test. Should read "if all test are not normal replace the sensor"
 

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I would take the inner part of the speedometercable out , and inspect and lube it ( i use engine oil ).
If the speedometercable is defektive , the "pulse generator" in the speedometer ,isnt sending correct information to the unit.
 

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It still be a Vaccuum problem as the bike won't set unless it has the correct vaccuum your speed is regulated by Vaccuum also. As the bike sees vaccuum as engine speed by the time you reach 75 you are producing a lot of vaccuum and may be overwhelming the leaks.
But while you are replacing the sub filter go ahead and replace the cruise filter and the filter in your air compressor I have found that if one is bad the others are almost bad also. You can even take the dessicant crystals out and bake them in the oven and get them back to correct operating condition. There is a Tutorial on here as to how to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update - it will set in 5th, but at much faster than I should be travelling. Haven't had time to tear into it, but will in a day or two and report back.
 

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This is just an absolute guess. I wonder if the square wave generator might have two pickups? If so were one to fail, all speeds would be 1/2. Instead of 8 pulses per revolution maybe 4 per rev??? Instead of setting at 30 or 35 it sets at 65 or 70 thinking it's going 30 or 35????
 

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The cruise unit also uses a RPM signal from the 5/6 coil. It is the yellow/red from ECM to cruise unit check for good continuity. Your tach works, right?

I would also check the actuator cable to carb for extreme slack.
 
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