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i've been thinking on this a bit and see some benifit to going that way cheaper tires. I understand that motorcycles average very few miles per yr. So i understand the tire companies not wanting them to last 40 thousand miles. they need the average rider buying new tires ever 3 to 5 yrs. just makes scense to me thats cool.

but if I can run a car tire and get great milage on it that's cool for me. But I don't want it to act like a car tire. That would not be worth it. I see most folk's over preseurize there tires up to like 45 or 50 pounds to try round it out and help the handling but that seems wrong most of these tires are made for cars that run 30 pounds in there tires. So running them up to 45 is way over inflating them in my opion and lossing there tracion ability.

My thought's would be to angle shave the tires to get a crown on them and make a narrower running area in the center.

I would really love to try this but it is way more difficult to do with a motorcyle than a car where you can put on tires shaved diffrently in a matter on minutes.

Wilf
 

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People that a running ROF tires are running pressures in the low 30's

I run an all season that is not a ROF and I run 41-43PSI

This is not to round the tire but to add strength to the side wall.

Max pressure on my tire is 50 PSI and I am no where close to that.

My tire handles EXACTLY like an E-3.

There is no noticable difference.

I see you are running a 1500.

I only have experience with the 1800's
 

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Running38 psi currently (brought it down from 41) on a Dunlop Wintersport ROF that replaced an E3.Handles far better IMO. Would not even consider shaving to round the profile. Totally unnecassary.

Pat
 

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I'm by noway an expert on this but this is what i think some of the reasons maybe for making motorcycle tires only last a few thousand miles. One thing is that the rubber starts to breakdown after it is made and they say it is only good for about 5 to 7 years because of the UV rays and ozone makes it rot. That being said if a motorcycle tire lasted say 30,000 miles some of them would still have the original tires on them after 30 years.:? Also if you are running 40 or 45 psi and think you are not coming close to the 50 psi max. on your tire you might want to rethink that. As you ride (unless you are going a very short distance) as the tire flexes (from the weight load on the tires)and as the roadway heats up it also transfer this heat to the air in the tire which will increase the psi tell the tire cools back down. Good example is on a NASCAR tire they start low on psi cause the tire may gain 50psi by the end of the tires run from heat buildup. That would an extreme but you get may drift.

Most tire compounds are harder on higher mileage tires to increase the mileage also for like say a winter tire it's softer to increase cold weather traction or on a lower mileage tire its softer to increase traction. ( This is just my opinion and I could be totally wrong.):ssshh:
 

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I run a Cooper Lifeliner on my VTX and has been on for several years. I run thirty five in it. I have a Dunlop run flat on the wing and run thirty two to five in it. I can keep up with any other wing out there and perhaps take some curves faster. The "CAR TIRE" has not much more noticable difference than a bike tire except it lasts ten to twenty times longer for the same money spent. I put a matched set of Bridgestones on the wing when I bought it a year ago this last April. The rear is now a car tire and the front is on its last miles. It will be replaced this winter and thats with twelve thousand miles. You will read every reason NOT to use a car tire and every reason TOO use one. Its all up to you. DO YOU WANT ONE???????????? Its not a big deal!!!!!
 

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I only get about 50% more miles out of a car tire than a MC tire but that is not the primary reason for using one. They have a lot more traction in all conditions and ride a lot better and do not make noise even when worn out. You cannot make a tire round by adding pressure, it only makes it stiffer. Each individual tire and rider has a pressure that works best for them, takes some experimenting to find the sweet spot.
 

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SETHAN12 wrote:
People that a running ROF tires are running pressures in the low 30's

I run an all season that is not a ROF and I run 41-43PSI

This is not to round the tire but to add strength to the side wall.

Max pressure on my tire is 50 PSI and I am no where close to that.

My tire handles EXACTLY like an E-3.

There is no noticable difference.

I see you are running a 1500.

I only have experience with the 1800's
Please teach me something. What is ROF?
 

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djcmk wrote:
:? Also if you are running 40 or 45 psi and think you are not coming close to the 50 psi max. on your tire you might want to rethink that. As you ride (unless you are going a very short distance) as the tire flexes (from the weight load on the tires)and as the roadway heats up it also transfer this heat to the air in the tire which will increase the psi tell the tire cools back down. Good example is on a NASCAR tire they start low on psi cause the tire may gain 50psi by the end of the tires run from heat buildup. That would an extreme but you get may drift.
I get approx 150 miles from a set of tires on my skid pad and always run MAX pressure in my car & bike tires. A softer (low pressure) tire will increase air pressure more than a stiff side was due to more sidewall deflection & movement. Low air pressure results in poorer cornering & braking as well. :waving:
 

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The number for max pressure on the sidewall takes in to account the fact the tire will heat up and increase when used. That number is max pressure given it will be used as intended. A NASCAR tire may start low pressure, but I will bet that that low pressure is also listed as a max because the user/manufacturer knows how the tire is to be used. LT truck tires are often able to handle 80 psi per the sidewall. Notice that the tire can also handle a huge amount of weight. Near the max weight? Run at or near max pressure. The last set of LT tires I bought were run at 35 psi even though the sidewall said 80 was ok. This is opposite direction of the thread (lower pressure in a higher rated tire) but the concept is the same.
 

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hey rpetes549
good year does not give a maximum pressure for he goodyear eagles used in cup racing. they give the teams a guidline as to how low yhey can run at any paeticular track. Nascar has also stepped in on ocastion to mandate how low they can run the tires because teams have been blowing out tires starting them out at very low pressure.
this realy has no relationship to motorcyle tires or road tires in general as the slip angles and loads generated on the high bank ovals are tremendous and wear a tire out in 100 to 200 miles.
Having raced cars for 30 some yrs I have learned to listen to the car and tires and understand what they are saying. It is a skill that takes avery long time to learn althow racedrivihg schools and coachs have speed that way up now days.
My problem is simple i would love to be able to shave some tires and try them out to see the diffrence. I have alot of experiance shaving brand new tires for classes that required a street tire and know the bennafits that can be acheved by not just a strait across shaving but one at the tunned angle.
If i had 2 1500 it would be a little easier as i could shave 2 new tires and mount them on each bike and see the results. unfortunatly I have 2 of the 4 clyiner wings but there are no car tirs for them.
any way I first have to find a suitable ct for my 1500
Wilf
 

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I understand you, wilf, as I also have some professional driving experience. I didn't think they actually had a number on the side, I was just commenting on anothers actual pressure/vs what was stamped on the sidewall.
One thing-- how many darksiders have an issue with uneven tread wear?
I understand your thought on shaving, but the question is whether you could shave enough to make a noticable difference in ride (trying to get what you want to accomplish) without going too deep and causing a wear issue prematurely in the shaved areas. It is an interesting thought, and one that would be more challenging as the tire got wider. Not saying yay or nay, just thinking out loud if the goal is attainable in that manner. Be interesting to find out.
 

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Have you heard of the (175R16 Austone Taxi Tire) I was told that this tire is more round than most car tires. After looking at a video of a goldwing car tire on the pavement in sharp turns, I'd opt for more tread on the ground when turning.
 

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RayJay1959 wrote:
Have you heard of the (175R16 Austone Taxi Tire) I was told that this tire is more round than most car tires. After looking at a video of a goldwing car tire on the pavement in sharp turns, I'd opt for more tread on the ground when turning.
My reply from above!!!!
I run a Cooper Lifeliner on my VTX and has been on for several years. I run thirty five in it. I have a Dunlop run flat on the wing and run thirty two to five in it. I can keep up with any other wing out there and perhaps take some curves faster. The "CAR TIRE" has not much more noticable difference than a bike tire except it lasts ten to twenty times longer for the same money spent. I put a matched set of Bridgestones on the wing when I bought it a year ago this last April. The rear is now a car tire and the front is on its last miles. It will be replaced this winter and thats with twelve thousand miles. You will read every reason NOT to use a car tire and every reason TOO use one. Its all up to you. DO YOU WANT ONE???????????? Its not a big deal!!!!!
It makes NO difference how rounded the tire is at the speeds we travel. We're not on a zoom splat dragging our knees. If we were then it WOULD make a HUGE difference. I believe Steve had a video on here too and it looks pretty convincing to me to keep a car tire on it. My two pennies.
 

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Someone recently posted a pic of a Goldwing (a greenish one) mid corner with the CT on it and the picture clearly showed that the tire flexed and allowed a large portion of the tread to contact the road well. Saw it on here last week.
Personally, I am thinking of going with the Austone as I would prefer to be effectively 'higher' geared as opposed to the shorter tire's 'lower' effective gear ratio. I just wish there was more than ONE tire available in that 175 size.
 

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i run the pirreli 195/55/16 rf on my 1800, i can now talk from experience that the max pressure for that tire is 55 psi. i run between 40 and 44 to keep the low tire lite from coming on. your right it doesn't handle like a motorcycle tire. it's way better. it corners just like the mc tire, it rides much smoother than a mc tire, it rides much straighter than the mc. and i can also say that with two up, my better half says there is no comparison, she no longer cringes when we hit the bumps and yesterday she acually said they are even fun now, so if there was ever any doubt at least for me about running a car tire, they have all been blown away, not to mention the load range is at least twice the range of the mc. but the most important thing here is that it is an individual choice and should be based on personal experience, like all the rest say, i'm never going back.
 

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I understand what you are saying beachbuddy you like that it handles more like a car than a motorcycle and I imagine a great number of wing owners like that car feeling about a wing but that is not what im after
wilf
 

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wilf wrote:
I understand what you are saying beachbuddy you like that it handles more like a car than a motorcycle and I imagine a great number of wing owners like that car feeling about a wing but that is not what im after
wilf
I don't think you are paying attention. If someone put you on a bike with a car tire and you did not know it beforehand you probably would not be able to tell any difference except it rides better and has great traction. If you have convinced yourself otherwise you probably should stay with a motorcycle tire.
 

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rpeters549 wrote:
Someone recently posted a pic of a Goldwing (a greenish one) mid corner with the CT on it and the picture clearly showed that the tire flexed and allowed a large portion of the tread to contact the road well. Saw it on here last week.
Personally, I am thinking of going with the Austone as I would prefer to be effectively 'higher' geared as opposed to the shorter tire's 'lower' effective gear ratio. I just wish there was more than ONE tire available in that 175 size.
I don't know about all that but the rpm's are spot on between the bike and car tire. At sixty the rpm's are three grand. I run the Dunlop runflat by the way!
 

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Experience is a good teacher

Opinions are well........just opinions

Experience has taught me notgive credenceto opinions

 
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