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I changed my oil the other day, I went to Walmart and they didn't have 10-40 oil so I bought the 10-30 Chevron same as I have been using. Got the job done and was putting the extra oil away and noticed the little circle on the back had something in the bottom part of the circle. I will run this oil until summer and then change to the heaver oil for summer. If I have clutch problems I will change right then. I was surprised that something had been added to the 10-30.
The other thing is my front tire has about 18,500 miles on it. I keep it at 41 lbs. and it is wearing on the sides and is starting to look a little worn. No cupping but the sides are worn down and the center is getting taller. The E4 has 3 compounds in them and the center is harder than the sides is the only reason I can think of. I do ride a lot of mountain roads but I do my time on Hwy. I going to down load some pictures and see what everyone thinks about this tire. I going to change it before riding season but here we can ride some this time of year.
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I would change that oil, it is energy conserving, worded different, and may cause clutch slippage. Front tire looks worn out in the center and not on the sides to me.
 

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I was thinking the same thing. Looks to be wearing okay for highway miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm thinking your right Dave. It's your fault I know about the circle on the back of the oil. LOL. I haven't ridden the bike since I changed the oil so I can just drain it and pull the filter and drain it. Then replace with the 10-40. that I usually use. The tire can wait a little longer, I will only be riding local for the next month or two.
 

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Oil formulations change all the time - probably most often without any visual indication that something has been added, subtracted or substituted. Amounts of ZDDP comes to mind from the P-car world.
 

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I'm thinking your right Dave. It's your fault I know about the circle on the back of the oil. LOL. I haven't ridden the bike since I changed the oil so I can just drain it and pull the filter and drain it. Then replace with the 10-40. that I usually use. The tire can wait a little longer, I will only be riding local for the next month or two.
Should be fine just to drain and replace it. Any residual will be diluted enough to not matter.
Usually any oil in the 30 wt range or lighter will have friction additives, except diesel oil.
 
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I'm thinking your right Dave. It's your fault I know about the circle on the back of the oil. LOL. I haven't ridden the bike since I changed the oil so I can just drain it and pull the filter and drain it. Then replace with the 10-40. that I usually use. The tire can wait a little longer, I will only be riding local for the next month or two.
Keep the oil clean and run it in your lawnmower garden tractor or beater car.. Better than just wasting it.
 

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I wouldn't worry that much about changing the oil. It won't hurt anything to run it 3K miles. Wally sells Valvoline M/C oil for a good price.

The tire looks to be nearing wear wear bars and is no doubt older than what is recommended.
 

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I wouldn't worry that much about changing the oil. It won't hurt anything to run it 3K miles. Wally sells Valvoline M/C oil for a good price.

The tire looks to be nearing wear wear bars and is no doubt older than what is recommended.
Dennis,
Respectfully I have to disagree. I have no idea if it will hurt the clutch or not but I just think it is risk VS gain. Pretty big job repairing a clutch VS $20 oil change.. You might be right but I would feel a lot better knowing it was out of there. If I left it in I would not enjoy riding because I would be feeling things that probably aren't even there. :)
 

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I put over 200K miles on mine using Valvoline Racing Oil. Never had a slipping clutch issue. I use a M/C oil now, because it's easily obtainable, but don't really think it is crucial. Anyway, that is my 2 cents worth.
 

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I put over 200K miles on mine using Valvoline Racing Oil. Never had a slipping clutch issue. I use a M/C oil now, because it's easily obtainable, but don't really think it is crucial. Anyway, that is my 2 cents worth.
That Valvoline racing oil probably doesn't have the anti-friction additives. If it was 10/40 or more I know it doesn't.
 

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I did some reading about SN and Resource Conserving and Energy Conserving. There is not a lot of information related to formulation. I'm betting patent protection. It seems that Resource Conserving (SN) oil is Energy Conserving oil that has additives to protect against low speed preignition in turbocharged direct injected engines. Here is one link:

Low-speed pre-ignition engine protection | Mobil™ Motor Oils
 

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I did some reading about SN and Resource Conserving and Energy Conserving. There is not a lot of information related to formulation. I'm betting patent protection. It seems that Resource Conserving (SN) oil is Energy Conserving oil that has additives to protect against low speed preignition in turbocharged direct injected engines. Here is one link:

Low-speed pre-ignition engine protection | Mobil™ Motor Oils
Don't know how oil could prevent pre-ignition but I don't know everything anymore. :oops:
 
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Don't know how oil could prevent pre-ignition but I don't know everything anymore. :oops:
Sure Dave, Did you ever notice 2 cycle oil is always ashless? That is so no residue will accumulate and glow in the combustion chamber and tops of the pistons.
This oil is designed for turbocharged engines. Probably when it gets some miles on it and the turbo seals start to seep. End up with carbon build up and that can glow causing preignition. I have no idea how they would change the formula to prevent it??
 

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This oil is designed for turbocharged engines. Probably when it gets some miles on it and the turbo seals start to seep. End up with carbon build up and that can glow causing preignition.
You know according to the manufacturers that is never supposed to happen. When/if it does you buy a new car.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
I have an issue with buying oil at Wall Mart. I bought this oil there and have bought oil there in the past but when I change it I have to take the old oil to Auto Zone or O'Rielly's to recycle it. Seem's to me that if you sell oil you should have to recycle it. I guess I should support the guy that supports the recycling. Also if it's only a buck or two difference why go to Wall Mart. The National Auto Parts place's offer a lot of service and don't charge for it, Wall Mart offers nothing and I have to check my self out and walk a mile to my car. Just my TWO cent's worth. Also I miss the old auto parts place's with a guy behind the counter that could help you with good info.
 

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You know according to the manufacturers that is never supposed to happen. When/if it does you buy a new car.
Can you imagine a seal that can seal oil when the shaft is spinning 200,000 RPM and 1,000 degrees. Lucky they last as long as they do. :) When you decide to sell that car let me know. I might buy it but it isn't worth much. It has a leaky turbo seal. :) :p:unsure:
 
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