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Just bought an older 81 Goldwing in great shape with only 26,000 miles on it. Bad part is their is no owners manual. Live in Minnesota so what weight oil and is the brand a question? I use Mobil 5-30in my cars, (not synthetic).Also, how about filters? Do you have to buy them at a Honda dealer?I know the oil questions come up a lot but as a new person to this site I'd appreciate it a lot. Thanks, this is a great site!!!!
 
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puttitin wrote:
Live in Minnesota. I know the oil questions come up a lot but as a new person to this site I'd appreciate it a lot. Thanks, this is a great site!!!!
Hey puttitin :waving: Welcome to the forum. :clapper: When you get the chance complete your profile and put Minnesota down for your location. :jumper:

:walker: :18red: :walker:
 

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On the older Wings before the GL1500, I think you are better off with a good quality 20w 50 oil. Thiner oil seems to result in a noisier engine, at least in any that i've heard running with it.
 

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Budegan wrote:
On the older Wings before the GL1500, I think you are better off with a good quality 20w 50 oil. Thiner oil seems to result in a noisier engine, at least in any that i've heard running with it.
I don't think you'd want to run 20W-50 this time of year, especially in Minnesota.
 

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Use Mobile 1 - 5W40 suv syn oil, works great in my 1980, starts easier, idles better and sounds better now!
 

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puttitin wrote:
Just bought an older 81 Goldwing in great shape with only 26,000 miles on it. Bad part is their is no owners manual. Live in Minnesota so what weight oil and is the brand a question? I use Mobil 5-30in my cars, (not synthetic).Also, how about filters? Do you have to buy them at a Honda dealer?I know the oil questions come up a lot but as a new person to this site I'd appreciate it a lot. Thanks, this is a great site!!!!
:waving::waving:Welcome to the Best Goldwing Website in the Known World!:waving::waving:

Unless you have a spin-on filter adapter, the filters are a cartridge type. There are substitutes but the Honda filters don't cost that much more. Beware Fram! Oil type and weight has been covered on these forums and all others ad nauseum. Mainly change it often and change the filter at the same time. 3000 miles isn't too often. These engines don't run dirtier than car engines but remember the clutch and transmission are sharing the oil in these machines. SAE 80 is the stuff for the rear drive, there is a measurement but I just drain it when I change engine oil, put the plug back in and fill it till it drools. Probably over kill on the rear end, but it doesn't take much and some of it always gets away through the vent or osmosis or witchcraft or something. So changing it often makes sure that the small amount back there is really there!

BTW I'm practicing to be a greeter at Wal Mart in my next career!
 

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I hate to keep asking age old questions, but has anyone used the Mobil 1 (0 - 40) in any of these four cylinder wings?

Jack - 1982 GL1100I - Original Owner
 

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jackjohn wrote:
I hate to keep asking age old questions, but has anyone used the Mobil 1 (0 - 40) in any of these four cylinder wings?

Jack - 1982 GL1100I - Original Owner
How do they keep that 0-40W sealed in a can? Typo? :goofygrin:That is an age old question around this forum, try a search on Mobil in the search box above and you will find a lot of hits. But please don't ask about tires!! :goofygrin:Just kidding, oil and tires are the longest running thing around here right after REDWING's Guru status.

:waving::15red::waving:
 

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No harm in using the lighter 10w 40 in winter and 20w 50 in summer.
 

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You can also find,or order the filter cartrige in most auto parts stores. I got some from a local Auto-Zone. I believe they were STP #SP-09. But you can check the cross reference list to make sure. They're under $4.00 U.S.

Almost forgot, I like Valvoline or Castrol in 10w40... :gunhead:
 

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I use Mobile 1 15-50 in my 83. Works fine. Seems to shift smoother and doesn't use as much as it did with dino oil. No problem with the clutch slipping.

Bob
 

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Redline full synthetic 10-40!!!!!!!!!!!

Fram filters are fine however they fill up VERY quickly and you end up running on bypass most of the oil's life.

:12ltd:

Marty :cool:
 
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exavid wrote:
oil and tires are the longest running thing around here right after REDWING's Guru status.
Thats right, and i never got promoted. :crying:

:weightlifter: :18red: :weightlifter:
 

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The Honda OEM manual recommends 20W50 oil for temperatures above +18 degreesfarenheit.

As the engines get older the internal mating clearances widen and the 20W50 weight oil helps to keep things from contacting metal to metal.

If you use oil that is light weight, you most likely will encounter extra noises that you may not hear with the 20W50.

I've been using Castol GTX 20W50 motorcycle oil in my 84 Wing for years and it has served me very well as I drive my bike extremely hard and shift frequently at over 7500 RPM.

Vic
 

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I have a '78 Wing, use Castrol GTX 20W50 in the summer and 10W40 in the fall and spring when the temps are cooler, makes the engine turn over better, start better and warm up faster. I just bought a 2000 Valk, the manual calls for 10W40, I'm not sure if I'll switch to 20W50 in the hotter weather or not.
 

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I like Shell's Rotella T 20-50W synthetic in the blue bottle. Smooth shifting, quiet engine. I get such good gas mileage, I have to drain off a quart or two every time I ride.:goofygrin:

Actually, as has been stated, oil is an ongoing discussion. The main thing that I've determined is just make sure that the oil you're going to use doesn't have friction modifiers in it as it might make your clutch slip.

:11red:Hobie
 
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