Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

1 - 20 of 49 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
57,646 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
the label on the engine says 30w SAE non-detergent

this is the typical aircooled engine, it is a V-twin Vertical Shaft, horizontal cylinders in my Husqvarna 48" deck lawn tractor.


It has 550 hours on it now, and is using about 1/2 quart per 5 or 6 hours of use.... it runs at a continuous 3,600 RPM ( because of the grass blades )

I sort of, getting tired of having to stock different oils....
the Suburban is on 5w20 pure synthetic


the gl1800 is on rotella T6 5w40 pure synthetic
and the lowly tractor is on SAE 30w non-detergent.

now tell me why, it should be non-detergent?
why not use a multi-weight in it too?


the manual has this note:


LUBRICATION •

ENGINE
Only use high quality detergent oil rated with API service
classification SG-SL. Select the oil’s SAE viscosity grade
according to your expected operating temperature.


NOTE: Although multi-viscosity oils (5W30, 10W30 etc.)
improve starting in cold weather, they will result in increased
oil consumption when used above 32°F/0°C. Check your
engine oil level more frequently


=============


so, stick with the SAE 30 non-detergent?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
I'd try the Rotella in it. If it uses an unacceptable amount of oil you can always go back to the SAE 30.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,497 Posts
LUBRICATION •

ENGINE
Only use high quality detergent oil rated with API service
classification SG-SL. Select the oil’s SAE viscosity grade
according to your expected operating temperature.



=============


so, stick with the SAE 30 non-detergent?
So where does it say non detergent?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
402 Posts
Hmmm,

must have been on the engine label?
I will have to go look at that again, and the oil jugs that I have in the shop

Looked at the manual for your model. It shows 30w or 5w30 detergent oil.

There were a lot of older engines that used non-detergent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
I have been using 10W-30 in my lawn tractors for many, many years with no ill effects. My push mowers......................... Well considering most of them came out of trash piles or I paid five or ten bucks for each I put in them whatever I have laying around. Usually 15W-40 since I have so many diesels. I have been known to use used oil in them. I have also been known to not change the oil in them for years and I have never had one blow up or seize. They usually succumb to a blade to stump impact that bends the crankshaft. And yes I do still run them after that as long as they don't vibrate so bad that my hands go numb. I have been known to grind off part of the blade to get a little balance back in the bent crank to eliminate the vibration. Am I cheap? Damn right I am!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,410 Posts
I have had a lot of John Deere mowers and multi grade will go out the valve guides,and the more hours,the more oil will go out,that’s why they recommend straight grade oil in air cooled motors,Onan can use multi grade in the winter to allow them to turn over better when cold,but expect oil usage,mine uses John Deere Torque Guard Diesel oil 30 weight.
John,I’ve had valves stick in the Briggs motors and pull out the guide,what I do is run some used oil in the gas for lubercating the guides,half qt in tank,they aren’t fun to fix.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
57,646 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I have had a lot of John Deere mowers and multi grade will go out the valve guides,and the more hours,the more oil will go out,that’s why they recommend straight grade oil in air cooled motors,Onan can use multi grade in the winter to allow them to turn over better when cold,but expect oil usage,mine uses John Deere Torque Guard Diesel oil 30 weight.
John,I’ve had valves stick in the Briggs motors and pull out the guide,what I do is run some used oil in the gas for lubercating the guides,half qt in tank,they aren’t fun to fix.

I will start doping the gas with TWC3 or MMO then, or a few drops of the 'new oil'... don't want the valve guides to stick on this thing.


My Suburban has been a tad expensive over the last 5 weeks....
Exhaust headers fell off, had them welded up, looked good. that was in Savanna, GA


then in Fulton, MS the exhaust header flange at the end of the headers, where the tail pipe bolts up to the headers.... that flange just slipped right off the header pipe.... did not look like it had ever been welded from OEM.
took an hour for the backwoods shop to fix that, but it don't leak or pop anymore.


we stayed at the state park in Fulton, MS for 3 days. nice place.


3 days before that, we were just entering Fulton, MS when I noticed the voltmeter drop, and a red "Battery Low" light come on...... Cyndi Googled auto shops and found the one we used, they called up the auto supply and had a new alternator on the bench by the time we idled into their shop....
55 minutes and we rolled out with a new alternator. Good folks in the backwoods.


then just east of Alma, AR the front tires were bouncing so bad, that I decided we had to them replaced..... a result of a huge hole in west I-240 at Memphis, TN.... busted belts in the left front tire.


so, 2 new tires, and Cyndi drove us home.... I was finished for the day.
went to sleep in the right seat.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,497 Posts
I have had a lot of John Deere mowers and multi grade will go out the valve guides,and the more hours,the more oil will go out,that’s why they recommend straight grade oil in air cooled motors,Onan can use multi grade in the winter to allow them to turn over better when cold,but expect oil usage,mine uses John Deere Torque Guard Diesel oil 30 weight.
John,I’ve had valves stick in the Briggs motors and pull out the guide,what I do is run some used oil in the gas for lubercating the guides,half qt in tank,they aren’t fun to fix.
What engines are in those John Deere mowers? I have one with a Kawasaki engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
If that engine has a pressure oiling system with a filter, I would go with oil such as the torqueguard 30w. Dipper/ splash oil systems should use the non-detergent. Pressure/filter systems should be detergent oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,410 Posts
What engines are in those John Deere mowers? I have one with a Kawasaki engine.
Dave,most of the newer John Deere’s do have Kawasaki,I had Onans in the ones that I had but I had a Huskavarna that had Briggs in it,I bought it new but my JDs were all found parked in fields and yards and I restore them like new,hers on that 56 years old and has Koehler
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,410 Posts
I will start doping the gas with TWC3 or MMO then, or a few drops of the 'new oil'... don't want the valve guides to stick on this thing.


My Suburban has been a tad expensive over the last 5 weeks....
Exhaust headers fell off, had them welded up, looked good. that was in Savanna, GA


then in Fulton, MS the exhaust header flange at the end of the headers, where the tail pipe bolts up to the headers.... that flange just slipped right off the header pipe.... did not look like it had ever been welded from OEM.
took an hour for the backwoods shop to fix that, but it don't leak or pop anymore.


we stayed at the state park in Fulton, MS for 3 days. nice place.


3 days before that, we were just entering Fulton, MS when I noticed the voltmeter drop, and a red "Battery Low" light come on...... Cyndi Googled auto shops and found the one we used, they called up the auto supply and had a new alternator on the bench by the time we idled into their shop....
55 minutes and we rolled out with a new alternator. Good folks in the backwoods.


then just east of Alma, AR the front tires were bouncing so bad, that I decided we had to them replaced..... a result of a huge hole in west I-240 at Memphis, TN.... busted belts in the left front tire.


so, 2 new tires, and Cyndi drove us home.... I was finished for the day.
went to sleep in the right seat.
Google “Briggs Stratton stuck valves” for some reason the do and it usually the v twin.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
57,646 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Google “Briggs Stratton stuck valves” for some reason the do and it usually the v twin.

just verified that, so I will take pains to be sure it does not do that.
I only use Pure Gas 87, never use ethanol.


https://www.doityourself.com/forum/outdoor-gasoline-electric-powered-equipment-small-engines/523519-stuck-intake-valves-briggs-stratton-vertical-twin-engine.html


just looked at the hour meter, 516 hours. thought it was 550


We used it 6 weeks ago, it has sat since then.....
it fired right up tonight and Cyndi mowed 2 acres with it.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,497 Posts
Dave,most of the newer John Deere’s do have Kawasaki,I had Onans in the ones that I had but I had a Huskavarna that had Briggs in it,I bought it new but my JDs were all found parked in fields and yards and I restore them like new,hers on that 56 years old and has Koehler
That's a nice one. Mine is a 1987 model so I guess that means it "newer". :grin3:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,410 Posts
That's a nice one. Mine is a 1987 model so I guess that means it "newer". :grin3:
Lol Dave ,mines a 65,I have it for sale,I only use battery powered stuff now,yard is small and my shoulder hurts so I can crank them,my dewalt battery mower will mow most of my yard on one battery,it’s 40 volt
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,381 Posts
the label on the engine says 30w SAE non-detergent
this is the typical aircooled engine, it is a V-twin Vertical Shaft, horizontal cylinders in my Husqvarna 48" deck lawn tractor.
It has 550 hours on it now, and is using about 1/2 quart per 5 or 6 hours of use.... it runs at a continuous 3,600 RPM ( because of the grass blades ) … etc ...
and the lowly tractor is on SAE 30w non-detergent.

now tell me why, it should be non-detergent?
why not use a multi-weight in it too?


the manual has this note:


LUBRICATION •

ENGINE
Only use high quality detergent oil rated with API service
classification SG-SL. Select the oil’s SAE viscosity grade
according to your expected operating temperature.


NOTE: Although multi-viscosity oils (5W30, 10W30 etc.)
improve starting in cold weather, they will result in increased
oil consumption when used above 32°F/0°C. Check your
engine oil level more frequently


=============


so, stick with the SAE 30 non-detergent?

I use quality detergent oils in my B&S engines, often straight 30 wgt but 10w30 is OK in my one Vanguard V twin as it has pressure lube and filter. 30wgt OK in splash system.


Not so sure about switching over from Non-Det to Det at 550 hours though, and if I did … I'd do next few oil & filter changes more frequently.


I also check oil levels before each start.


My gen has a OHV 13 HP B&S, but my 1981 Wheelhorse is on B&S V Twin #2 … it came with single cyl Kohler but that was underpowered and tired, so I swapped to Vanguard and then accumulated grass in cooling fins led to overheated rear head …. so I replaced again with another new one. I also upgraded deck 20 years ago, from 36 to 48".
 
1 - 20 of 49 Posts
Top