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hi all hope someone can point me in the right direction. I have acquired 2gal of oil ;) and hope that one of them is good enough for the wing so I don't have to take a bank loan out to buy some one is 5w-30 fully synthethic and one is 5w-40 fully synthethic which says on the tub approved for all types of vehicles including vw diesels:confused: thanks for any input you can give on this subject but if it has to be 10-40 then that's what I will have to get :sadguy:thanks
 

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Do not use the 5w30 - that oil is "energy conserving" and has slickeners.
The 5w 40 syn is probably Shell Rotella and I personally would not use it either and i used it for a few years. I changed it between 3-4k. It stunk after a while and my tranny started shifting clunkier until i started using Delo.
 

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In a pinch any clean motor oil is better than dirty or no oil. Just change it regularly and also clean all filter screens.
 

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And never forget the clutch in dipping in that oïl it has to be compatible with it...
 

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Just make sure it doesn't have the words "Energy Conserving" in the API Service Label on the back of the oil container. Energy conserving means those Chemicals that are added as Indianawantsme indicated above.

I suspect that a 5W oil is going to be too thin for the clutch anyways, your going to grind a lot once the engine is warmed up.

Goldwing engines go for hundreds of thousands of miles with minimal maintenance, However, I suspect the one single most important maintenance item you can perform for engine longevity is proper oil changes. With that said, there is a few dollar difference between oils, some find the cheaper oils to work for them and some like the more expensive oils, whatever works for you, it's your decision, it's your Bike, but if you take care of it, it will take care of you.
 

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The 5/40 synthetic is probably fine- the 5/30 is a bit thin and is probably friction modified. The owners manual advises you can use 10/30 intemps up to a max of 80*F, but even that needs to be free of friction modifyers which can negatively affect the clutch. I have occasionally used 10/30 in winter, but I spring for full synthetic motorcycle (Amsoil usually) if I do that. I have stayed with the 15/40 year round for the last couple years and been happy with results.
Rich
 

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Delo 400LE is about $12 a gallon at WMart. If the cost is a consideration don't waste your money on Synthetic...it's unnecessary and your engine won't benefit at all by the so called "upgrade".
 

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Delo 400LE is about $12 a gallon at WMart. If the cost is a consideration don't waste your money on Synthetic...it's unnecessary and your engine won't benefit at all by the so called "upgrade".
UK got wally world?....:claps:

Those bloaks over the pond get hosed worse than us on the petroleum products for sure.
 

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I have to give credit to Wingercanuk for posting this link a few days ago in another oil related string. I think it is a great read. At the very least it describes why the answer to many oil questions isn't that easy but leaves a pretty solid point about synthetic and where it may be advantageous in specific circumstances.

http://www.post610.org/truth_about_motorcycle_oils.htm

As far as your 2 oils, I wouldn't recommend the 5-30.
 

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Good artical oldwimg,but im still not sold on SYN oils for every day use. and asfar as change intervals. that depends on how fast it gets dirty. IE tune of engine, A well running engine
1 makes less contaminets to get in oil. 2 the rings witch seal out these contaminets frome the crankcase oil. these 2 factor alone differ even on same bike,car,ETC. i say when the oil is looking bad change it! And theirs 1 factor in using SYN OIL. that no one has ever talked about. the unburned fuiel thats is the most polutent( under normal use)is a patrolieum product-unless you use SYN fuiel? And i believe has a more damaging efect on SYN. than patroleim oil.:?
 

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As far as the original posting goes, if the oil jugs aren't labeled as far as to who the manufacturer of the oil is and what brand it is so you can determine if the oil is suitable, I would only use it in the lawn mower.
 
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